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Help With Internal Modification Of Samsung Sd-616t


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#1 Leigh Garbs

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Posted 16 December 2003 - 05:23 PM

Okay guys, I've got a problem. Last Saturday I sucessfully installed a Samsung SD-616T DVD-ROM drive into my Xbox, and it worked fine. Until about noon on Monday. I checked inside the drive and found that the wire I had soldered to the Eject spot on the board had come away. So I attempted to resolder it. But ... the solder wouldn't stick to the board at all. Examining the surface of the board, I discovered some brown stuff on it, which I presume to be the rosin from the solder I was using. I think this rosin is preventing my solder from sticking to the board.

And so I have questions.

1. Is this brown stuff (the rosin, I think) my problem?

2. If it is, is there some way to get it off?

3. I am worried that I've somehow damaged the spot where the Eject wire must be soldered. It is a deep brown/black in color, and I am worried that I've somehow fried the spot with my iron. Is it even possible to do that, and if so, is that what I did?

Edited by Leigh Garbs, 16 December 2003 - 05:24 PM.


#2 xboxmodder4life

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Posted 16 December 2003 - 07:26 PM

get some liquid flux and put it on the spot and then try soldering it

#3 mhr_54

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Posted 16 December 2003 - 08:17 PM

If you heat it up enough it sure just burn off (hold the iron tip to it). The wire may have also pulled part of the trace of with it, if this happened you'll have to solder further down the trace.

#4 spyderbass

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Posted 16 December 2003 - 11:52 PM

You can use an alternate eject point. Take a look at this.

http://www.fullburn....es/image017.png

This is a shot of the front motor PCB. Just above the ribbon cable in the picture is the volume knob.

Hope this helps.

-spyderbass

Edited by spyderbass, 17 December 2003 - 01:46 AM.


#5 Leigh Garbs

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Posted 17 December 2003 - 01:31 AM

I'm interested in the alternate Eject point, spyderbass, but the link you gave me doesn't go anywhere. I tried finding it myself, but I think I was unsuccessful. Do you have another link I can try?

So, that brown stuff is rosin, right? I'd like to know, because I am interested in actually knowing about what I'm doing.

Thanks for the help so far, guys.

#6 spyderbass

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Posted 17 December 2003 - 01:48 AM

oops. Sorry, try it now.

alternate eject point

-spyderbass

#7 Leigh Garbs

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Posted 17 December 2003 - 01:45 PM

Wow, that's small ... ah well, I'll get it done. Thanks. I keep you other guys' advice in mind if I screw this up.

#8 Leigh Garbs

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Posted 17 December 2003 - 03:24 PM

In the process of soldering my Eject wire to that other solder point, I discovered that I wasn't plugging the Xbox power cable into the motherboard (stupid). So I did that and soldered that wire to the alternate solder point. Now what it does is when I hit the Eject button, it opens and immediately closes. As in, the tray only emerges about 1 or 2 inches from the case before it immediately reverses and returns inside. If I'm playing a game, and hit the Eject button, it performs the open and close commands to itself so fast the tray doesn't even open. An example: I'm playing a game, and hit Eject. The screen flickers and displays that Xbox logo that it displays at the start. Then the word "MS" appears at the bottom (telling me that it's either recognized a playable disk or is going to the dashboard) and the game just starts all over again as if I'd hit a reset button. Got any ideas?

#9 Leigh Garbs

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Posted 18 December 2003 - 11:22 AM

So, no ideas?

#10 Leigh Garbs

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Posted 18 December 2003 - 05:48 PM

Actually, I seem to have figured it out on my own. I found that if I solder the wire to one of the four posts that hold the drive's Eject button on, it'll work just the same. So anyways, thanks for the help!

#11 Lugnut

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Posted 25 December 2003 - 06:56 AM

As most of you might already know the solder points for eject, tray in and tray out in the tutorials are very fragile and break off very easily. There are easier points on the front pcb board to solder wires to. I would attach a picture. But i have no http to upload the pic and have it linked. I have seen some pictures where it shows you tray in tray out and eject on the ribbon cable connected to the front pcb, but i know alot of people would not be able to solder wires to these connections at the end of the ribbon cable successfully so i found easier points to use. If you look at the pcb board upside down and with the ribbon cable facing away from you. On the left side is a plastic tab that goes through a hole in the pcb to hold it down. Right next to that on the left is two solder points. The two solder points below those would be where you attach tray in and tray out. Use a multimeter to test them to the original solder points shown in the xbox scene tutorial to figure out which one is tray in and which is tray out ( i forget which is which). Make sure you have no resistance when using the multimeter, because the two solder points directly left of the tab connect to tray in tray out solder points via resistors and you dont want to solder your wires to these points.

As for the eject it also runs to the front pcb, If anyone has broken off the eject solder point shown in tutorials and now are stranded trying to figure out where the trace runs, it is connected to the pin hole directly right of it, use your multimeter on that and then look for a solder point on the front pcb.

Good luck.




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