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Quick Guide For High Def Output


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#151 sandman1687

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Posted 20 August 2004 - 02:31 AM

so just look at what jumper is used for the rf unit, then wire it up regularly.
good stuff

#152 JaredC01

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Posted 20 August 2004 - 02:36 AM

QUOTE (sandman1687 @ Aug 19 2004, 06:35 PM)
i was wondering, has anyone attempted to make a break-out box with every single connector on the diagram? also, im not too keen on removing the AVIP connector (and since i have an extra standard av cable), so could someone write up a quick diagram explaining what pins on JaredC01's diagram correspond to the av cable? thanks.

also, i was thinking, could a RF adapter be incorporated into the design (i have a MS brand rf adapter, and i dont mind tearing it apart).

A few things... 1. The standard XBox cable only has wiring for the three standard A/V jacks. You can use the plug part itself with different wiring like nickman did if you wish to do it that way. 2. You can find the info for making an external cable/box Here.

I did not make the diagram on that website, so don't post any problems with it to me. xerxes3rd made a translation chart from the pins on that site to the pins in my diagram. My diagram uses the actual M$ numbering of the pins.

Here is a link to the translation chart.

Edited by JaredC01, 20 August 2004 - 02:54 AM.


#153 sandman1687

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Posted 20 August 2004 - 03:28 AM

after looking at the standard av connector, the numbering goes down, up, down, up, so thats no longer a problem. the RF unit has a jumper on 13-14. there is a red wire on pin 1, white wire on 3, black wire on 5, jumper on 13 and 14, black wire at 21, blue at 23, and black at 24. wires 3 and 5 are bound into one single white wire, and 21 and 23 are bound into one blue wire. upon further examination, all of the black wires are combined about an inch before they hit the PC board on the modulator. on the pc board, right below the connector (where the cable from the xbox meets the adpater), there is in small writing "G-B A-R". they might correspond to the connectors (black-g white-b blue-a red-r), but i dont know. it should be fairly easy to incorporate a RF adapter into your schematic. if you need pictures for clarification, then i will check back frequently to see. -sandman1687

#154 sandman1687

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Posted 20 August 2004 - 03:35 AM

i was looking for some component connectors, but after rereading JaredC01's posts, i found the packets of 4 RCA jacks for 4 bucks a piece, not bad. i also managed to hunt down a lm1881n for like 3 bucks online, so thats not too bad either. a D-sub connector (female) is 2 bucks at radioshack. for under $15, you can put together the entire av pack, every connector. im planning on building it, and will report back (hopefully sometime next week when the LM comes through the mail) with the entire project (including the RF outputs, so i can have low-low-tech to high-high-tech)

#155 sandman1687

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Posted 20 August 2004 - 04:50 AM

upon further reading, i realize that with the RF unit, only a composite video signal and a mono (left channel) audio signal are sent to the adapter, along with power. so add another jumper setting to the table, switch 3 sends power and standard av signals (possibly right channel audio also?)

#156 irfan

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Posted 20 August 2004 - 06:07 AM

well after realizing im too impatient to wait on shipping for the Red green blue phono jacks (btw- DigiKey.com sells them for 71 cents a piece) .. i decided iw ill pry open the advanced video pack i have, and add in the wires for component video including a spdt swtich to go between the HD and s-video modes, all on the breakout box so i dont have to mess with soldering internally and worrying about traces and all that. besides , i can return the HD pack but not the Advanced pack at this time anyways:)

I'll try to start on this tomorrow with radio shack parts (friday the 20th).

now the only problem is getting that sleeving off of the end of the connector.

i also might just add the switches to the front of the xbox if i can make room for them.

-altrenative i could just add the s-video input to the HD box with the switches on the front couldnt? The HD box already has all the wires i need, its jsut a matter of wiring in the s-video into that but then i dont get my twenty bucks back

#157 sandman1687

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Posted 20 August 2004 - 06:08 PM

will the TOTX179 work? http://www.toshiba.c...ProductID=10180

alos, isnt 100nF the same as .1uF ?

Edited by sandman1687, 20 August 2004 - 07:07 PM.


#158 JaredC01

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Posted 20 August 2004 - 11:12 PM

QUOTE (irfan @ Aug 20 2004, 12:10 AM)
well after realizing im too impatient to wait on shipping for the Red green blue phono jacks (btw- DigiKey.com sells them for 71 cents a piece) .. i decided iw ill pry open the advanced video pack i have, and add in the wires for component video including a spdt swtich to go between the HD and s-video modes, all on the breakout box so i dont have to mess with soldering internally and worrying about traces and all that.  besides , i can return the HD pack but not the Advanced pack at this time anyways:)

I'll try to start on this tomorrow with radio shack parts (friday the 20th).

now the only problem is getting that sleeving off of the end of the connector.

i also might just add the switches to the front of the xbox if i can make room for them.

-altrenative i could just add the s-video input to the HD box with the switches on the front couldnt? The HD box already has all the wires i need, its jsut a matter of wiring in the s-video into that but then i dont get my twenty bucks back

I'd go with your alternative... the Advanced A/V Pack doesn't have enough wires in it to wire up component. You'd be missing the Blue (Pb) signal. Using the HD A/V Pack, you would have all of the wires. Just wire up the S-Video jack to the corresponding pins (same pins as Pr and Y signals, check the diagram), unsolder the jumper wires (will be pins 11 to 12 and pins 13 to 14) in the HD A/V Pack connector, solder some switches in place inside the case so you can switch between Advanced and HD A/V Modes, and you're ready to go.

QUOTE (sandman1687 @ Aug 20 2004, 12:11 PM)

  will the TOTX179 work? http://www.toshiba.c...ProductID=10180

alos, isnt 100nF the same as .1uF ? 

I haven't actually done the Optical mod myself, so I'm not sure if the TOTX179 will work or not. I only posted ones that I know for sure work, based on other people's experiences.

As for the 100nF being the same as .1uF, yes, 100nF is the exact same thing as .1uF.

#159 sandman1687

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Posted 21 August 2004 - 05:01 AM

im having troubles finding an s-video connector to put into my all-in-one box. anyone know where to get them, or what they're even called, so i can do a search?
i found component and standard av connectors at digikey ( part # CP-1446-ND for the red/green/blue, search for red//white/yellow), and i found the totx179 (the only totx that looked like it wires exactly to your guide) there also, as i have a minidisc recorder, and it has optical input, so finally i can have digital audio on my minidisc (its an old one). also, i recommend digikey because i basically found every part i needed, resistors, capacitors, d-sub connector, the lm1881n chip, an rca jack for coaxial, and slide switches. im not sure what to enclose the whole thing in, any suggestions? (must be able to be cut with a dremel for the ports)

the final project is looking to have every single output on your diagram, plus the RF unit, as said before, and it turns out that if only 13 and 14 are jumped, its composit and mono output (and of course power)

-sandman1687

Edited by sandman1687, 21 August 2004 - 05:03 AM.


#160 irfan

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Posted 21 August 2004 - 06:15 AM

the s-video connector is called a MiniDin4, youd want a female one, and probably a panel mount.

I tried the first idea i had with the Advanced AV pack, i basically disconnected the Composite Video, Audio Left and Audio right. I think took those wires and soldered them to the corresponding pins for the components (19 17, 18 16, 22, 20)... jared... all the pins are on all of the connectors, i pulled apart the connector and resoldered the video/audioL&R wires to the corresponding pins.

but.. that didnt work too well, i cant get any video with components, and the s-video is now just black and white. im guessing a connection came loose or shorted something else. im oging to look into it in the AM. if that doesnt work i will do the wiring in the actual breakout box and not the connector, and i'll have to run a pair of wires for the Yb signal.

#161 irfan

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Posted 21 August 2004 - 07:35 AM

looking thru these posts for the 10th time.. should i have been using Jared pinouts or these: http://www.gamesx.co...inouts/xbox.htm . this is if i am modifying the actual cable

EDIT: actually it doesnt matter since if u follow either of them from the start u end up the same anyways. i guess it has to be a loose connection?

Edited by irfan, 21 August 2004 - 07:48 AM.


#162 irfan

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Posted 21 August 2004 - 08:37 AM

I made a diagram of how i connected everything to the Cable, I didnt use everything listed but I put everything on there in case anyone else needed it.

Its an application of Jareds diagram to the AV plug connector instead of the motherboard, also using info from http://www.gamesx.co...inouts/xbox.htm



http://www.geocities...quatch/xbox.jpg

#163 sandman1687

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Posted 22 August 2004 - 01:22 AM

http://www.jandaman....egory_code=XBOX
someone was clever enough to produce one of these babies.

just got paid, so my project should start soon

#164 talon4x4

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Posted 22 August 2004 - 03:52 AM

I'm going to add the HD connection and a SPDIF connection to my XBox. My question is, the diagram by Sheriff in this thread shows a different spot to connect the SPDIF(He shows a connection to pins 6 & 24) than the one in this article http://www.xbox-scen...ital-output.php (pins 3 & 5 with a GND at 18)

Can someone please tell me why they are both different.

And if a friend of mine decides to give me his M$ AV pack can I use that for the HD connection and then add the SPDIF from one of the diagrams above??


Thanks!


Edited by talon4x4, 22 August 2004 - 03:54 AM.


#165 irfan

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Posted 22 August 2004 - 05:23 AM

i didnt look into it completely but im guessing its just because everyone has their own pin numbering system and the actual pins are probably the same.

sandman: thanks for the link that looks great actually, exactly what i wanted... im guessing that thing has a switch on the back of it? if i run out of time for soldering i may go with that idea and jsut dish out the 15bucks.




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