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X2lite Soldering FAQ


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#1 Froggie

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Posted 13 January 2003 - 11:21 AM

Because we're having alot of people installing their X2lite themselfs and not every install is going perfect alot of people are asking help on their solder job. Because we do not want the forum to become overcrouwded with -=HELP with X2lite install=- topics I decided to put a little FAQ/troubleshooting guide together with a few answers to help you evaluate your solder job yourself.

Q 1. In short, how do I know my mod is installed properly?
A 1. After the boot animation, when the xbox hits the logo screen, the word MS should be replaced with the word Xecutor2

Q 2. Well, I guess my install didn't go properly, my xbox doesn't even boot up and gives me a red/green flashing error code, what to do now?
A 2. Open up your xbox again in case you already closed it again and check if you connected everything. I don't care if this sounds stupid but you might have forgotten a cable or something in the thrill to install your just bought modchip. Check the IDE cable, the yellow wires cable to the DVD-drive, the fan connectors, the USB connectors the powercable to the motherboard, just everything. Your xbox will start flashing red/green on the slightest mistake so it's nessesary to eliminate all possibilities one by one. After double checking, boot up your xbox again. If it boots the hacked bios you're fine, if it doesn't and is still flashing red/green, go to question 3.

Q 3. I double checked all the cables and stuff inside and everything seems correct, but my xbox is still flashing red/green, how come?
A 3. Locate the biosjumper on the modchip and check if it's set the right way. Jumper on for v1.0 and jumper off for v1.1. Boot your xbox again.
if your xbox is booting fine now and you're seeing the 'xecutor2 logo screen' you're done. If that didn't solve your problem, go to question 4.

Q 4. I double checked the biosjumper, but I'm still having a red/green disco, what now?
A 4. Locate the on/off jumper on the modchip and remove it. If your xbox is booting fine again go to question 5. If your xbox still doesn't boot, go to question 6.

Q 5. I removed the on/off jumper and my xbox is booting again. What happend and how can I get the mod to work?
A 5. Well, your D0 solderpoint seems to be fine otherwise your xbox would boot with the chip on but without loading the xecutor2 bios. So it seems you'll have to recheck the wires/pins soldered to the LPC header. After fixing any mistakes go back to question 4 and keep repeating these steps if your xbox is still not booting with the hacked bios.

Q 6. Turning the modchip on or off doesn't matter, my xbox doesn't boot up anyway. What should I do?
A 6. It seems you haven't been carefull enough while soldering and you're causing a short somewhere. Investigate your solderpoints and check if you didn't spill any solder of accidently have to stripped ends of wires touching eachother etcetra. If you found the problem, go back to question 4. If you can't find the problem and can't get your xbox to boot again without the mod, go to a good modinstaller and make him try to fix it for you. Better pay about $50 then lose $200+.

Q 7. I'm getting another flashing error code when the mod is enabled, when it's dissabled my xbox boots normal, what should I do?
A 7. If you're getting another error flash, take a carefull look at your solderpoints. I had another error code once (don't remember what the flashing was, sorry) that was caused because I made a short between the upper D0 and a trace next to it to the right. Grab a magnifying glass and have a close look at your solder job to fix it. You should be almost there.

After installing a few X2lites myself I came across some little things:

- Installing a X2 in a v1.0 should be done using the wires. Just make sure you 'tinned' (dutch translation, so dunno if it's correct english biggrin.gif) the wires and everthing should be fine.
- Installing a X2 in a v1.1 should be done using the pin header. Just make sure you use enough, and then I mean enough solder on the pins. If not the pins will not be connected to the motherboard and when you put the modchip on you're push some pins back through the holes causing the problem discribed in question 5.
- Using the alternative D0 is alot easier then the normal one. If you're using the pin header, just make the grey wire go through one of the unused holes. If you're using the wires, just expand the wire so you can reach the alternative D0. I'm my opinion the primary D0 is only for the profs. Not impossible to solder, just harder then the alternative one.

Hope this clears some things up for people and gives the mods a break for not having to mod that many topics anymore wink.gif

If there's already a guide/page whatever like this I'm sorry I 'double posted' this. I couldn't find one myself on my short search around some boards and I thought this might be usefull for other people.
If you feel free to add extra questions, or if I left things out that should be included or if I made spelling mistakes (I'm dutch after all tongue.gif) please feel free to mail me or post a reply.

Gotta grab a breakfast now pop.gif

#2 CKA_revernd

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Posted 13 January 2003 - 01:48 PM

Very informative post!

#3 RDJ

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Posted 20 January 2003 - 11:11 AM

I have heard (altough I never had this problem) that some Ex2-lite have bad BIOS on them from factory?
Wrong BIOS also gives GREEN/RED flash. You have to do the swap trick with good Ex2 to repair this.

Anyone had this problem with an original Ex2-lite? (and not after flashing is yourself ofcourse) !

#4 npg2002

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Posted 21 January 2003 - 12:12 PM

RDJ, never heard of this problem.
Some have had trouble doing a HDD swap, changing the bios to 4974 has solved it.
Waiting on a report back from someone who had this trouble as to what version Xbox he has.

Froggie, something to add.

Q8: I installed the X2L with wire header and stuck it to side of case, when mod is switched on or off it makes no difference -it is always on or always off.

A : The X2L could be shorting out on the case or DVD, place the X2L down low towards the motherboard.

#5 Schmo

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Posted 03 February 2003 - 03:36 PM

QUOTE (Froggie @ Jan 13 2003, 11:21 AM)

- Installing a X2 in a v1.0 should be done using the wires. Just make sure you 'tinned' (dutch translation, so dunno if it's correct english biggrin.gif) the wires and everthing should be fine.:

I am not going to disagree that this is easier but I wouldn't use the word "SHOULD" when you say "you should use the wire installation on a 1.0."

I did a pin header install on a 1.0 and had to remove the solder. It was the trickiest part of the whole install but it wasn't that bad and the installation is SOOO clean. I even removed the solder from one extra whole so I could put the grey wire through it to get to the D0 on the back. Looks very clean and help hold the grey wire in place, along with some electrical tape on the back of the board.

Just my 2 cents. The wire adapter would have been much faster but if you are going to use the D0 on the back and have a little nerve, I would recommend the pin header.... even on a 1.0. biggrin.gif

Excellent FAQ though!

Edited by Schmo, 03 February 2003 - 03:37 PM.


#6 nynx

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Posted 06 February 2003 - 09:00 AM

A good solder sucker is the key to cleaning the holes in a 1.0 installation. Forget the bulb types. Go with a spring loaded plunger style one, you won't be sorry. Then use an ultra fine tip for your iron. Heat from the top side. Place the sucker against the hole on the back and viola nice clean hole.

If there are complications apply a small drop of liquid flux. I personally don't like paste (too messy for cleanup). Further if the hole is still being stubborn then apply some new solder to the hole, heat and suck again. I personally would only recommend the wire setup in the most dire circumstance. The pin-header is just too cool. Looks perfect and clean. Not to mention sticking the chip to the side can be a headache when you inevitably want to hack some holes for USB ports or the like.

#7 mookoo

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Posted 20 February 2003 - 01:01 PM

I have moded 16 XbOXs with the X2 Lite and found a common problem with 3 of the installations if installing with the pin headers and the small plug for the d0 and black wire.

If you are getting a green and red flashing light on the front of the XBOX and are certain that everything has been done properly then try this:-

Remove the X2 Lite from the pin header and pull out the small white plug from the X2 Lite.

You should now be left with a bare pin header and trailing white plug with the grey and black wires still attached to the motherboard. The X2 Lite is totally disconnected from the motherboard.

Now boot up - if you still get the green and red flashing lights and you are certain that the d0 point is soldered correctly, then the two wires are shorting in the little white plug.

Strip off the white plastic part off the plug so you are left with the metal connectors. These connectors can be plugged into the X2 Lite. Make sure the connector pins on the X2 Lite are bent appart slightly to prevent shorting in the future.

I have had to do this on 3 installs so far. It would be very easy to assume the X2 Lite was fried in this situation! wink.gif

Hope this helps somebody.

#8 HSDEMONZ

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Posted 04 March 2003 - 11:52 AM

Thanks mookoo.. that must be the tip of the day! smile.gif

#9 stee-blak

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Posted 07 March 2003 - 03:32 PM

Thats a solid tip bro'! Makin alot of kids happy today! wink.gif beerchug.gif

#10 tester123

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Posted 11 March 2003 - 10:32 PM

I would like to make a suggestion on a v1.0 install.


Instead of using a "solder sucker" or "tinning" the wire, all you need to do is heat the EXISTING solder and gently slide the wires into place. The only solder you'll need is for the d0 point. It was a fast, clean, flawless installation on every v1.0 box I've modded(over 40). I can install a mod chip on a v1.0 in less than ten minutes using this technique.

I suggest everyone try it at least once. biggrin.gif

#11 erickpro

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Posted 12 March 2003 - 12:44 AM

THANKS
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#12 HeLiuM

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Posted 12 March 2003 - 12:48 AM

QUOTE (tester123 @ Mar 11 2003, 11:32 PM)
I would like to make a suggestion on a v1.0 install.


Instead of using a "solder sucker" or "tinning" the wire, all you need to do is heat the EXISTING solder and gently slide the wires into place. The only solder you'll need is for the d0 point. It was a fast, clean, flawless installation on every v1.0 box I've modded(over 40). I can install a mod chip on a v1.0 in less than ten minutes using this technique.

I suggest everyone try it at least once.  biggrin.gif

thought thats wut everyone did already.. lol

Edited by HeLiuM, 12 March 2003 - 12:48 AM.


#13 erickpro

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Posted 12 March 2003 - 12:59 AM

Thanks a lot man!
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#14 Schmo

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Posted 20 March 2003 - 01:50 PM

QUOTE (HeLiuM @ Mar 12 2003, 12:48 AM)
QUOTE (tester123 @ Mar 11 2003, 11:32 PM)
I would like to make a suggestion on a v1.0 install.


Instead of using a "solder sucker" or "tinning" the wire, all you need to do is heat the EXISTING solder and gently slide the wires into place. The only solder you'll need is for the d0 point. It was a fast, clean, flawless installation on every v1.0 box I've modded(over 40). I can install a mod chip on a v1.0 in less than ten minutes using this technique.

I suggest everyone try it at least once.  biggrin.gif

thought thats wut everyone did already.. lol

Tinning the iron slightly is still a good technique for even heat distribution. There is definitely enough solder in the holes to do the job without extra solder.

#15 Xeero

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Posted 25 March 2003 - 01:21 PM

He was suggesting using the existing solder instead of tinning the wire itself, not the iron.




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