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Extend The Life Expectance Of Your Modded 1.6


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#256 spacemanspiffvt

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Posted 28 December 2004 - 02:48 AM

i think i am going to get the SmartXX LT OPX ,apparently this resolves that issuse?

#257 alladdin

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 09:53 PM

ok MnesquE......fit chip....fit the rebuild cables under the lpc points.....cut the track.....try it. if it works fine ......if not cable from bt point on aladdin to ground (screw) now should be always on.

#258 alladdin

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 09:53 PM

ok MnesquE......fit chip....fit the rebuild cables under the lpc points.....cut the track.....try it. if it works fine ......if not cable from bt point on aladdin to ground (screw) now should be always on.

#259 BreakZ

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Posted 30 December 2004 - 06:23 AM

I doun't have a small torx so I can't get the 2 screws out holding in the HDD and dvd-rom assembly. I can however look in the side of the metal and see that I have an Aladdin 2 modchip. Do these modchips have the resistor problem?

#260 MnesquE

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Posted 30 December 2004 - 07:17 AM

Actually i have an install as follows:

No cable in Bt point.
No cable in D0 point in the chip.
A bridge from D0 point in the board to GND.

The chip is allways on.

┐Thats worng?
If the other posibility of installation is better i will remake it, of course, but now the mod is working in an allways on insltallation, and the thing that worries me is the bridge between D0 and GND points.
I want to know if its better do the instalation as alladdin indicates me.

Thx a lot smile.gif

#261 BreakZ

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Posted 30 December 2004 - 07:49 AM

Douse the Aladdin 2 modchip have this problem? I doun't want to wreck my xbox so I will have to take it back to the guy who modded it and tell him to put on a resistor.

#262 alladdin

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Posted 30 December 2004 - 09:05 PM

MnesquE.. i think since u havnt cut the track u are at risk as described in this thread. since u are happy with always on just cut the track and thats it. still works but no risk for tomorrow.... the do on board to grnd is not needed once u cut the track.

#263 michael_j_w

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Posted 30 December 2004 - 09:14 PM

Any chance the link to the diagram could be updated? it would apeare that it is dead.

#264 demo38

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Posted 30 December 2004 - 09:33 PM

OK. I know I'm new at this. And, truthfully, some of you guys amaze me at the dedication and know-how in the constructive application(s) here.

That being said...

If I understand right, and if the resistor puts enough damper on the extra charge lying around, in place of a resistor, would this be a good location to wire in a case LED like this one to use up that extra juice? If I'm out in left field, then please say so...

I just got a new 1.6b and was / am planning on picking up an X3 very soon. I'm just planning the attack and wanted to know if this light thing could work, or I'll just go the resistor route and cut the trace.

Thanks for any help / comments.


michael_j_w: that link was posted a ways back in this thread: Resistor Install.

Edited by demo38, 30 December 2004 - 09:44 PM.


#265 Chancer

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Posted 30 December 2004 - 09:53 PM

No you can't use a case LED. The problem as explained is grounding the Lframe permanent causes higher than normal current flow. Its not just spare "Juice" floating about looking for a home. The resistor is in effect accross the cut Lframe although not physically in that position and an LED would not even light bridging accross a supply.
Sorry

#266 demo38

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Posted 30 December 2004 - 09:57 PM

Chancer- Thanks for the quick reply, I get it now. That expaination helps a lot.

cheers.



#267 BreakZ

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Posted 31 December 2004 - 12:40 AM

So from what I am reading, if I cut the track, the modchip will just turn on everytime you start it. So it will go to like an evox dashboard. Than from the dashboard you can boot the normal M$ up? The track is only for booting M$ when you push the power button?
This is what I have:
- aladdin 2 modchip
- crystal v1.6 xbox
- evox dashboard
If I cut the track will the xbox function just like it douse when I hold the power button down for 2 seconds to start with modchip?
I just woun't be able to tap the botton to start the normal M$
The normal M$ is usless anyways so I doun't even need it, and if i ever do want it, I would just need to get a resistor solderd on?
hopefully you can understand this, thanks

#268 BreakZ

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Posted 31 December 2004 - 03:39 AM

bump . . .
(I gota know soon so I can play on newyears party)

#269 demo38

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Posted 31 December 2004 - 05:35 AM

QUOTE(Chancer @ Nov 14 2004, 05:55 PM)
Thats the wrong part.
From RS the part number is 348-0566
680R SMD resistor.
A standard carbon 0.125watt 680R also fits in here easily and is very easily obtained all over.

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I'm trying to track down this resistor here in the US on RSWWW.com's US site:
Alliedelec.com but I'm not seeing the same part number there on their site.

I'm also not seeing anything with a 0.125watt rating?

Anyone mind pointing out which resistor would be the right choice for this mod add on?

Thanks for any help... Just want to make sure I grab the right one. blink.gif





#270 Chancer

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Posted 31 December 2004 - 10:44 AM

BreakZ. Yes you have it correct with your explanation.

If anyone is struggling to get these resistors you can use a 0.25watt or even 0.5watt
Just solder a length of kynar wire on the ends of the resistor and insulate the legs all the way up to the resistor body (Use heatshring tube or some plastic sleeving whatever)
Solder the ends of the wire across the pads and hot glue the resistor(just a dab of glue is enough) somewhere on to the mobo safely out of the way of anything.
The site mentioned above does not seem to have the correct value in a low enough wattage rating. The lowest seems to be 2 watts whcih is really way too big in size.
Sorry can't help with the part numbers in US as I am in the UK.
I do have plaenty of both types in stock and have even sent guys them made up or the SMD ones but sorry the costs to ship outside the UK would be too much.

Edited by Chancer, 31 December 2004 - 10:47 AM.





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