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How To Mod A Samsung 616f & Fit It Into An Xbox


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#1 t0il3t

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Posted 08 December 2004 - 11:41 AM

How to mod your Samsung 616F and fit it in your Xbox perfectly

This is my first tutorial and I learn english only in school! But I hope you all will understand this tutorial!

Intro:
There are many tutorials on how to mod a Samsung SD-616 Version T saying you could use the same tutorial to mod a Version F drive. And if someone uses one of those tutorial to a F drive …like me once upon a time… he will notice that the drive won’t work like it should! It took a long time untill someone told me to use ARAKON's tutorial (http://pirate.sparkhost.com/~arakon/samsung/fix.html) and this fix really helped me. Thanks to that guy and ARAKON…
Now you will probably think why am I writing this tut if everything is works?! The reason is that I’ve found a much better and more stable solution! With ARAKON’s mod you have to test each time you cut a piece of the white part in order to leave as much as possible uncut because the drive would never come out anymore untill you do it manually.

There are really many advantages of this solution!
Just in case somebody wants to know them:
- this method is foolproof (no exact cutting necessary)
- the tray will close untill its end
- if tray was closed untill its end, tray wouldn’t come out. This would also happen if you hold your drive upright while closing its tray, because the motor has not to work against the gravity and can turn much faster so the white part moves to much!
- ...



Start:
In this tutorial I’ll only focus on the fix for a Samsung SD-616F, because there are many tutorials explaining the rest!

Steps you should do first:
- Get the tutorial by NIC which is in PDF-Format. It has the headline “Complete Tutorial for Xbox DVD-ROM Replacement using SamSung SD-616T” and the filename is mostly samsung3.pdf. Do everything like explained! Just one thing you should pay attention for: in the tutorial is said that he has done some measuring on the connection of Tray-IN and Tray-OUT signals and he had to change them for his mod. I have done this mod twice and I would say you have to swap these signals always! For the connection to the yellow DVD power cable I’ve taken a small pinheader, connected all the necessary cable on it even 5V, 12V and GND and hot glued it on the backside of my 616F.

Now let’s start the fix:
user posted image

And that’s all about the greatest fix so far!!

How to fit into an Xbox will follow

Edited by t0il3t, 08 December 2004 - 11:53 AM.


#2 Sac2K4

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Posted 08 December 2004 - 04:55 PM

nice... but it has been explained many many times B4 (even the pics are the same...lol)

#3 Pizza Pizz

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Posted 08 December 2004 - 06:27 PM

Thank christ someone has updated the tutorial for TWO points to trim, I have had a number of pm's from peeps with F problems due to this 2nd bit of trimming

That second one leaves a little window that stops both switches being activated when tray closes and wasn't covered at first in tutorials. (it confuses the drive and it just locks shut refusing to open)

IMHO the F though a little more work is better than a T coz the F is a tight fit indeed and trimming of the dvd throat/opening on the case needs a little trim on the left side too

BUT - I'd much rather do a F than a T - coz the F is a larger drive, fits so snug in the dvd caddy and really does look like stock drive when bezel is fixed to dvd tray

#4 t0il3t

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Posted 09 December 2004 - 10:08 AM

QUOTE (Sac2K4 @ Dec 8 2004, 05:58 PM)
nice... but it has been explained many many times B4 (even the pics are the same...lol)

that "explanation" you are talking about is also from me ("same pic")

But this is not the same thing! Like Pizza Pizz said, there was a big problem because of this second switch!

I think many people will be grateful for this tutorial (and I hope so wink.gif )

#5 t0il3t

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Posted 09 December 2004 - 10:30 AM

How to fit a 616F into an Xbox

Intro:
My main target was to keep my Xbox as untouched (=undestroyed) as possible, so I've done all the work on my already modded drive.

First have a look at the reason why the new drive doesn't want to fit:
- First reason are these both "sticks":
user posted image
- Second reason is at the DVD drive carrier. It's the "stick" at the front left, when you look from the front to your Xbox and also the upper side of this "stick" on the top of the Xbox case (sorry, I've forgotten to take a pic)
- The third thing is the drive himself. The front is just too long.

And these images show you how to fix these problems:
user posted image
You can clean up everything on the front PCB except the switch and its resistors.
user posted image
user posted image
user posted image
(...pictures say more than words...)

After all you have cut around 3mm on each corner of the tray where formerly the bezel was and make the next level to this place more deeper so the new Xbox bezel can easily put on the tray.
Finally you can screw the new drive at some of its original points (4 on each side and 4 on the under side) to the DVD drive carrier.

Edited by t0il3t, 09 December 2004 - 10:43 AM.


#6 wahh

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 11:06 PM

How in the world do you get that part out so you can trim it? I'm beating my brains out trying to figure it out. lol....I bet it's something really simple isn't it?

Thanks!

#7 Pizza Pizz

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 11:30 PM

2 big washer type screws at back of the swinging laser bracket dooberry
(getting techy here)

undo them, then unclip the assembly bits - halfway down on either side - thingy pops up a bit - now pull the carrie assembly backwards a tad so them "prongs" come out of the white plastic slidey dooberry thingy ya gotta cut
(more techy words again)

slide the white plastic dooberry all way to right side and it might come out - that is if you removed the white plastic elbow bit - emergency eject arm dooberry bit
(quite a lot of these dooberry's in there)

think that should work unless i forgot to add a dooberry bit

#8 wahh

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 11:37 PM

Sorry, for some reason my edit button won't work. At least I know my own stupidity...it was something simple...READ THE TUTORIAL ON HOW TO TAKE IT APART! hehe. Anyways...I'm having trouble following the edited picture where 2 windows are cut. Am I supposed to completely cut off that short part or what? Does somebody have a picture of this piece already cut...and maybe at a few different angles? It gets hard to see with the whole piece being that white color.

#9 Pizza Pizz

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 11:50 PM

in the pic he may of left a fine slither of plastic still on there so you didn't get a "window" showing through when you cut off the smaller lug

if you cut off the smaller lugfrom where it is against the larger lug you trimmed back 5 or 6mm then you will see the little 3mm square window or hole

look at the plastic bit from the other side and I reckon you will figure out what I'm saying

just take ya time and you will be fine

jeeeeez them tutorials still need a bit of an update perhaps

#10 wahh

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Posted 30 December 2004 - 03:34 AM

Pizza Pizz you're awesome for being so quick with the replies smile.gif

Ok I get what you're saying....trim the larger lug back to it's equal with the smaller lug. After that is done, I want to completely cut off the smaller lug. Do I want a "window" or hole there or do i want to keep that covered?

Basically is the point of this trimming to make it so the shorter of the two switches, a.k.a. the one that gets pushed down by the smaller lug, never gets pushed?

#11 t0il3t

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Posted 31 December 2004 - 12:49 AM

Edit: "white part"-picture


QUOTE
Pizza Pizz you're awesome for being so quick with the replies smile.gif

Yes, Pizza Pizz is really a god sent biggrin.gif
Thanks to him!!

QUOTE
Ok I get what you're saying....trim the larger lug back to it's equal with the smaller lug. After that is done, I want to completely cut off the smaller lug. Do I want a "window" or hole there or do i want to keep that covered?

Leave a thin part, so the hole is covered!

QUOTE
Basically is the point of this trimming to make it so the shorter of the two switches, a.k.a. the one that gets pushed down by the smaller lug, never gets pushed?

It shall never get pushed when tray is closed!
It it has to be pushed when tray is open!

Edited by t0il3t, 31 December 2004 - 12:49 AM.


#12 revengeismyfury

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 07:41 AM

Hey everybody well I followed the tut except for the hole part.

The smaller switch that is activated when the drive is closed. Now since I did the cutting. It isnt activated at all I just cut off the piece that was making it push down and thus I have a hole.

The hole does not get in the way of the drive closing and opening. so was that second trim so that that switch would get activated at a different time?

Because My drive wolnt read anything now. The eject now works as a charm though.

The drive was reading disc before I had done the cutting.

And the drive has a great laser on it too.

Is it not reading because I moved the laser thing on the 2 metal bars that it sits on shouldnt make a difference right?

Is that smaller switch supposed to be activated at some point. I know its supposed to be activated when the drive is open which is working properly.

#13 Pizza Pizz

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 09:37 AM

The smaller switch is the eject stop switch and there should be a lug right at the very end of the white plastic you trimmed

The larger switch is the tray in stop switch and gets activated ok - the disc or drive spindle should spin when tray goes in

the switches and/or the white plastic have nothing to do with the laser or the drives ability to read a disc - the F - and ONLY F models need the cutting and is to ensure

the drive tray rises correctly - the first bit you cut back 5mm

alas this rise/boost also activated the 2nd switch eject stop which confuses the drive and why many peeps have trouble with the F's closing but refusing to open = the drive is confused as hell with both switches activated - cutting the "window" ensures this 2nd switch no longer gets activated on the tray closed - but will be activating the switch on tray opening by a second lug - looks like an elbow or 1/4 pipe at end of the white plastic mechanism

if this is correct the drive is ejecting fine and should be spinning the dis or drive spindle when tray closes and ejecting

However if the drive is not reading anything then something else must have got knocked ????

Perhaps if using in ya xbox a ready signal wire has been pulled off the pcb

before you go grabbing ya soldering iron a few things to check......

see if the ribbon cable from the pcb to the laser is fitted ok still - be very careful the ribbon lock or latch is very very fragile...

then put the drive back in a pc with the ide lead and see if it reads a "normal" data or audio cd or dvd disc - not xbox xiso coz it won't show up much using a xiso disc in the pc

what I mean is trying to see if any of the signal wires have come adrift in the xbox connection

it should/must work as a dvd drive in the pc recognising discs ok

I really can't think why the drive no longer reads discs coz the plastic cutting has nothing to do with the laser - just they tray aligment/eject mechanism

check the laser and troubleshoot in pc first in case a xbox signal wire has come loose

best of luck

#14 revengeismyfury

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 04:50 PM

Thanks man I guess thats nice to know that I dont have to do anymore trimming on the white piece. What if I screwed up one of the ribbons I was messing with the drive for a while and the ribbon did get moved around quite abit didnt look like I had damaged it though.


Do you think there is not enough lubricant on the 2 metal bars that the laser is sitting on. Every time the drive closes correctly the laser jurks 2 times or moves 2 times.

its like a ba ba and then it stops. I put in a cd it does the same thing. I move the laser up to the front and it starts reading the cd but, the computer doesnt recognize a thing.

I know the laser works it peaked out at 5.56x on the pc before I had done the eject job on cutting and swapping the motor.

I have already soldered 4 wires to the pcb for eject and whatever. Soldering is perfect!

The wires arent plugged to anything right now.

I have been testing this thing in my pc the whole time I guess there must be a short on one of those ribbon cables going to the laser right?


I repeat I have a window there so that the second switch doesnt get activated again.

Funny thing is I tried taping down the second switch and the drive eject still works properly but it still doesnt read any disc in the pc.

Is it because I only have the top of the case on? Reason why is because I have 4 wires on the bottom just free soldered on where they are supposed to be. It was perfect on soldering.

If I screwed up the ribbon cables how would I fix that? I dont believe I screwed up the ribbon cables? atleast the one that was connected on the bottom side going to the smaller pcb board.

Since the disc starts to spin a little bit when its closed. Its probaly fine.

I just noticed the other cable was loose so im gonna see if thats my problem.

#15 revengeismyfury

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 05:09 PM

Some reason the Edit button doesnt seem to work right now. I got the drive to work!

Thanks pizza pizz. Turns out the ribbon cable with the lever on it was loose. I had the lever closed the wrong way or whatever i fixed it. Its snug like its supposed to be thanks!

Read the disc in the pc just perfectly.





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