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Duox 2 Install Problems...


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#1 elucifer

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Posted 11 March 2005 - 04:18 PM

Just finished putting in the duox 2 chip in a v1.0 using the pin header method. Check all my solder points over and over.. can't see any issues there. But it just doesn't seem to want to boot. All I get is a black screen. Eject LED isn't flashing and stays constantly green. Slide out the chip and boots fine into the MS dash. d0 looks secure as does the eject wire(bt). Weird thing is that sometimes it'll boot into the MS dash with the chip plugged in by pressing the eject button, which it's supposed to do, but this doesn't happen all the time.

I doesn't know what else to check. The only thing I can think of which has been mentioned on the board is that I'm using the Xbox Advance AV pack, but I've currently got it plugged in by analogue only, not using the s-video or optical output. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,
el smile.gif

Edited by elucifer, 11 March 2005 - 04:22 PM.


#2 Chancer

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Posted 11 March 2005 - 04:32 PM

Blue DuoX2 or white? white defo needs the standard AV cable. To check it make sure the bank switch is set to bank 0. Ground the Xbox D0 and connect BT to pin 9 on the chip (point G on the diagrams) This makes the chip always on.
If the machine still just random boots blank you have done some damage to the LPC points somwhere or have a solder short which is bridged by the chip being plugged in.
If the machine frags you have a bad connection to the LPC.
If you are convinced the soldering is not an issue then you have to try another chip or try the chip in another box. Not had a faulty one in 350+ of these but there is always a first time.

#3 ahroberts

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Posted 11 March 2005 - 04:46 PM

I recently got the exact same results with a blue duo-x 2 installed on a v1.0. checked all my connections and they were solid. no solder splashes or bad connections found. i took the chip off and installed another and it worked perfect. the only thing I noticed on the nonworking chip is some white residue(corosion?) on the switch. i'm going to remove the factory switch and install an external to see if that fixes the problem. if not, maybe just a bad factory flash or a bad chip. let me know if you figure it out

p.s. i am also using the hi-def pack

#4 elucifer

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Posted 11 March 2005 - 04:47 PM

thanks for the quick reply... it's nearly 2am here and i'm still on this.. i've just gotto get it done.

"Ground the Xbox D0 and connect BT to pin 9 on the chip (point G on the diagrams) This makes the chip always on"

I've connected the BT to point G, but ground the xbox d0?? I'm not with you there.. I've got the chip d0 joined to the alternative d0 on the underside of the board. is this what you mean? Still no joy though.

There's definately no fraggin though. Fragging is when it blinks isn't it? Mines juts staying constant green. I'll have to check the LPC port just to make short I haven't bridged anything.


another quick question.. does the motherboard have to be screwed in to ground properly or something. I haven't been screwing it in cause i've been testing it first..

thanks.
el smile.gif

Edited by elucifer, 11 March 2005 - 04:50 PM.


#5 elucifer

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Posted 11 March 2005 - 04:52 PM

ahroberts,

the other chip you installed was it another duox 2 or something else all together.. maybe the advance pack


el smile.gif

#6 Chancer

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Posted 11 March 2005 - 05:16 PM

Instead of running the Xbox D0 to the chip D0 point just run the Xbox D0 point to ground (one of the rings round the screw holes) on the mobo. this forces boot from the LPC.

#7 ahroberts

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Posted 12 March 2005 - 02:15 AM

Yes it was another duo-x 2 from the same batch as the one i couldn't get to work. i haven't had a chance to test it, but i think the problem is in the factory switch. i noticed that on chips that i replaced the switch with an external one would do the exact same thing if the switch wasn't fully to the left or right position.

#8 elucifer

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Posted 12 March 2005 - 05:52 AM

QUOTE(Chancer @ Mar 11 2005, 04:22 PM)
Instead of running the Xbox D0  to the chip D0 point just run the Xbox D0 point to ground (one of the rings round the screw holes) on the mobo. this forces boot from the LPC.

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ok.. connected d0 point on the xbox to the metal ring around the screw hole. The d0 point on the chip was unconnected. Power up, it'd kinda, power up and power down 3 times... then nothing. What does that mean. I thought that d0 on the chip would have to be connected in order for it to get power.

thanks in advance,

el smile.gif

#9 ahroberts

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Posted 12 March 2005 - 01:03 PM

if you know for a fact your solder job is good, then this has to be the chip. i have had a few of these chips that didn't make good connection between the supplied male and female header pins. you can solve this by taking the chip on and off a few times to scuff up the pins a bit. switchs chips if you can and see what the result is

#10 dzv

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Posted 14 March 2005 - 06:36 AM

QUOTE(elucifer @ Mar 12 2005, 02:58 PM)
ok.. connected d0 point on the xbox to the metal ring around the screw hole. The d0 point on the chip was unconnected. Power up, it'd kinda, power up and power down 3 times... then nothing. What does that mean. I thought that d0 on the chip would have to be connected in order for it to get power.

thanks in advance,

el smile.gif

View Post


Your Xbox is FRAGing. Firstly, make absolutely sure that you have soldered the correct D0 point. Grounding the wrong point could give similar results (FRAGing).

With D0 grounded, this forces the Xbox to boot from the LPC. So if you're sure that you've grounded the correct D0 point, then that means the Xbox is unable to load a BIOS off the LPC (the chip). This doesn't necessarily mean the chip is faulty. In fact, in my experience of Duo X2 chips (hundreds), it is very unlikely the chip is faulty. I recommend you double-check your LPC soldering, especially on Pin 2 (Ground) and Pin 9 (3.3v). These points often cause trouble if you don't pay close attention to them. They often need a little more heat than the other points.

#11 elucifer

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Posted 15 March 2005 - 01:34 AM

i think the bridge may have done something to the LPC's on the board. Using this tutorial here:

http://www.xbox-scen...s&poll_ident=42

What i did was booted with a grounded d0 and no chip, so that it just fragged and powered up. Then I went ahead and checked the voltages on the lpc points.
I'm not getting and voltage out of LClk(pin 1), Lad1(pin 10) and Lad2(pin 8). According to the tut I should be getting 2v out of pin 1 and 3.3v out of 10 and 8. But I'm not. Just wanted to know how accurate that tutorial is? I'm getting some differences in the test points. Some points aren't working, so what I'm doing is 'manually' following the trace with a magnifiying glass(and going cross eyed in the meantime tongue.gif ) and I'm finding that some of the points aren't the same as the tute. I'm in the process of checkin the traces right now but they all seem sweet. I can't see any damage to the affected traces, and checkin the point according to the tut i get some differences but they seem to be working right. I'll work on it some more tonight. Any more input would be great.

Yes... i know.. i could just take it to a pro.. but where's the fun in that? I'm doing this not to simply 'chip a box' but more to see how chipping a box works.



thanks heaps,
el smile.gif

#12 Chancer

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Posted 15 March 2005 - 02:49 PM

QUOTE
Yes... i know.. i could just take it to a pro.. but where's the fun in that? I'm doing this not to simply 'chip a box' but more to see how chipping a box works.

Or NOT as the case may be biggrin.gif biggrin.gif

#13 Dra60nSlayer

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Posted 15 March 2005 - 05:16 PM

i was just reading about another guy in another Forum that had simular problems
it turned out to be a bad via ... he solved it with some wrapping wire trough the via and some solder smile.gif

#14 elucifer

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Posted 16 March 2005 - 12:41 AM

hey dragon.. where's this thread your referring to? tried doing a search.. no joy

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#15 ckh2004

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Posted 16 March 2005 - 01:04 AM

QUOTE
another quick question.. does the motherboard have to be screwed in to ground properly or something. I haven't been screwing it in cause i've been testing it first..


Chipping a v1.0 using the pin header install is actually very easy, reliable and fast. The only tough part is to clean solder off the LPC holes. Use a soldering iron to heat the LPC holes from the back side and a solder sucker (vacuum) to suck the solder from the top side. Once you get the hang of it, the process is actually quite easy. You only need clean LPC holes at locations pin 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 & 11.

Don't use the wire install for v1.0 because it is not so reliabe and time consuming as well.

I have never tried DuoX 2 in v1.0. But I have experience that some DuoX 2 will not boot in v1.1. If one DuoX 2 can't boot in v1.1, I will swap to a different DuoX 2, it will usually work. I never doubt my soldering skill.

I find that Aladdin XT works very well in v1.0-1.4 (never see a v1.5 before), so I use the cheap Aladdin XT clones for v1.0-1.4 exclusively. I use DuoX 2 mainly in v1.6a/b because the Aladdin XT is a hit and miss in v1.6.

Edited by ckh2004, 16 March 2005 - 01:11 AM.





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