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Warning For People Who Use 12v From Dvd Drive


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#1 xboxexpert

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Posted 06 May 2006 - 09:56 PM

I would not attempt to run anything off the 12V line on the DVD Drive. Even to tap into the wires is a strain on the DVD Drive. If you wish to run 12V the best place to get it is right under the power connector. Theres a power and a ground pad under there that gets fresh 12V right from the power supply. The reason why I made this post is because of a PM from a user that ran a CC from the DVD Drive power wire and now is having major troubles with his drive.

If you flip the motherboard over and have the power connector on the top left. Its directly under the power connector. There are 12V points viewable here.

Edited by xboxexpert, 07 May 2006 - 05:38 PM.


#2 Chancer

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Posted 06 May 2006 - 10:05 PM

Stick in a IN4007 diode in series to prevent any back EMF. Drawing from the 12v feeding the drive should not damage the drive unless there is a problem with spurious back EMF. Note this will cause a a slight voltage drop of 0.6v.

#3 Dano2k0

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Posted 06 May 2006 - 10:07 PM

I too second this, to add to the bonus of the 12v power line that runs into the 360 PSU socket, the power line is switched so its only live once you hit the power button on the front of the console, and as soon as its powered off the 12v line is dead again so this makes it an ideal location for installing everything you would want.

Alot of people are powering from the DVD drive and ive heard plenty of people having problems with it, also i don't know but i wouldn't recommend using it as possibly it may have other voltage regulators or coils that are rated at the power of the DVD drive only? i duno not looked at it too much.. but i wouldn't recommend it when the power lines are straight on the input socket at the back and work great.

A warning well worth taking note for beerchug.gif

EDIT: Chancer, do you not think dropping just over half a volt on the drive could cause issues? i belive it could. Its not alot but think about it, i could see it causing issues, and maybe overloading something. If it does overload something there could be an even bigger voltage drop over time, or worse a component failiure in the near future.

Edited by Dano2k0, 06 May 2006 - 10:12 PM.


#4 Chancer

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Posted 06 May 2006 - 10:20 PM

This is all dependant on what it is you are running from the 12v. Any sort of chopper or blocking oscillator circuit run off it (if the supply is a permanent 12v) risks a feedback spike without any protection. caution should be taken when tapping into any supply and thought should always be given to adding a protection method. It can save headaches later when something accidentally grounds the voltage rail for a split second, in the instance of a fault etc.
Hey I don't really do all this water cooling etc so could one of you tell an old man what is a CC? Do you simply mean a Cold Cathode?

#5 xboxexpert

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Posted 06 May 2006 - 10:22 PM

Heh....Cold Cathod smile.gif

Yea I think the guide should be updated though because everyone who is running 12v items is doing it through the DVD Drive.

Edited by xboxexpert, 06 May 2006 - 10:23 PM.


#6 Chancer

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Posted 06 May 2006 - 10:26 PM

Cheers mate
As if to illustrate your point check This Thread
can you unlock the topic to change the detail or the guide or do you want me to do it.

#7 xboxexpert

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Posted 06 May 2006 - 10:27 PM

QUOTE(bakuhn7 @ May 6 2006, 02:50 PM)  

Hi, i need some help, if you dont mind. I have opened my xbox and connected 2 cold cathodes into it. I connected the cathodes to the inverter, then cut the black and red cables from the other side of the inverter. I then stripped the 12 VDC (12)and a Ground (11) cables from the dvd drive. i connected the red to the 12 VDC and black to the ground. all the lights run. I put it back togeather, and turned it on,and the dics drive made some wierd noise as i turned the xbox vertically from its horizontal position, and after about 30 secs, the tv screen goes blue, and the top 2 face plate leds go red and the other green ones turned off!! The fans are still running, but i think that maybe the dvd drive is screwed up,
Before any of that had happened. (whilw the xbox was disambled i had also removed the top of the dvd drive to see if it would look cool to not have the cover. it ended up i had a disc in it, i left the dics there, and covered it back up. also ( i think that )the eye was exposed to light. When i turned it on, it worked, but like i said it then went blue screen and those red lights flickered. I though maybe the disc was not running correctly. it ends up the disc now has a round scratch on it, like as if the disc was not placed correctly (reason y it made noise first time). I assumed that was the problem, so i took it out( with the dvd open button), then turned it on, and it still did the same thing. I then turned it on again, and real fast opened the drive (with the button)and put a new disc in, it still flicked the red after a few, but the disc was not scratched at all, it was just fine.
Basically now i have the xbox back to the way it was, i took the cathodes out, removed the wires attached the the dvd, and tried it again. it still is screwed up!! the 30 does the exact same thing! do u think i did something to the dvd drive? what should i do? get a new one, or would that be for no good?




Yea thats the same PM I got which made me post this topic. Poor kid sad.gif As for the guide you can change it if you wish. I already posted the Alternate 12v link in there so I hope people use that as reference.

Edited by xboxexpert, 06 May 2006 - 10:30 PM.


#8 Dano2k0

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Posted 06 May 2006 - 11:19 PM

QUOTE(Chancer @ May 6 2006, 10:27 PM)  

This is all dependant on what it is you are running from the 12v. Any sort of chopper or blocking oscillator circuit run off it (if the supply is a permanent 12v) risks a feedback spike without any protection. caution should be taken when tapping into any supply and thought should always be given to adding a protection method. It can save headaches later when something accidentally grounds the voltage rail for a split second, in the instance of a fault etc.
Hey I don't really do all this water cooling etc so could one of you tell an old man what is a CC? Do you simply mean a Cold Cathode?


Yeah mate i second your thoughts right there. It can get very silly not to use a diode in alot of circuits like this, i wouldn't worry as much when tapping from the PSU, but like you said a diode can solve alot of problems in the cause of a fault. And lets face it, alot of people on this forum are just learning to solder and doing basic circuits, so i agree a diode would make a great add-on to their stuff.

I remember alot of people had issues with the hard wired DVD dongle on the original xbox due to back feeds, lucky i was smart enough to use a diode in the first place, so i never had any issues with it, but i know so many did.

And Chancer, you really should look into some of this watercooled stuff, i'm getting into refigerated gas using a compressor on the PC's, a nicer 1GHZ+ overclock on most systems is good enough for me, i don't think any watercooled system even using pelitors is up to this stuff, -35 degrees sounds reasonable enough to me biggrin.gif

If i didn't think it was abit overkill for the 360 i would have gave it a shot, but obviously its getting abit far with no overclock available, and better yet i couldn't have done it without having some reasonably sized box at the side which defeated my point all together.

But yeah, watercooling is good fun, but i think also everyone should know it CAN be leathal and a leak test should always be performed for at least 24 hours before applying power to the motherboard etc. Ive seen so many sad storys of things going not quite as planned. I'm sure xboxexpert will agree with me, he seems to be into watercooled stuff also. smile.gif

EDIT: i just read through the guys post where hes screwed up the 360, thats a real shame, as Chancer originally stated with feed back from devices, the inverters on cold cathodes are nasty things, and i personally think this is whats happened here, something has deffinatly gone to pot. Usually i wouldn't have thought so much about it being the DVD drive in this case, but it sounds funny. Although i do doubt it is the DVD drive still, if he boots without the drive and it fires up as normal then his board should be alright. If its still the same then he has a problem with the board and not the DVD drive (although dependant on the issue here it could be both the board and drive, if the drive went down it could have took the board out too, or vice versa.

If the board doesn't boot without the DVD drive the best i can recommend at this moment in time is to leave the board COMPLETLY without any power at all for at least 24-48 hours in some small hope it may recover, dependant on whats happened this may fix the problem.

Good look to the guy though beerchug.gif

Edited by Dano2k0, 06 May 2006 - 11:26 PM.


#9 GSX

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 12:18 AM

I'll third or fourth that biggrin.gif But being lazy is bitch. I didn't feel like taking out the mb to get to the PSU feed. So I just ran it off the dvd(keep in mind i'm on using led's, so the straing is minimal) I have zero problems, knock on wood.

Edited by GSX, 07 May 2006 - 12:21 AM.


#10 liquid-core

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 05:14 AM

I am running 3 3.7V LEDs off of the DVD drive. Should I dissasemble my 360 again to rewire them? I currently don't have a diode installed so should I go ahead and install one? Thanks.

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#11 xboxexpert

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 05:20 AM

LED's seem to have no effect on the performance of the DVD Drive. I would rewire it if you were running cathods off there or something.

#12 liquid-core

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 05:23 AM

No need for installing a diode? Thanks for the fast reply.

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#13 xboxexpert

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 05:26 AM

3 LED's...nah...2 inverters 4 cold cahodes and 3 leds....yea tongue.gif

Edited by xboxexpert, 07 May 2006 - 05:27 AM.


#14 liquid-core

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 05:33 AM

I had understood that you take the total V of the source and divide by the voltage drop across the LEDs. But from what I have read you can install alot more than the voltage of the source divided by the voltage drop. That is why I only installed 3 LEDs. I originally thought that was the maximum I would be able to install. 12 divided by 3.7 . Some clarification would be great. Sorry for getting off topic.

O'Malley

#15 sicknasty413

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 06:01 AM

Interesting. I would not want my dvd drive to mess up. That would not be cool!




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