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High Res Controller Pcb Pics


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#1 Chancer

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Posted 13 May 2006 - 09:30 AM

To enable easier repair of damage PCB.

These are for the WIRED Matrix version controller

IPB Image

NOTE: BOTH of the + (anode) lines are connected on the back of the board, so you can use either of these if need be.

D1
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D2
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D3
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D4
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These are for the WIRELESS Matrix version controller

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D21
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D23
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D20
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D22
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Edited by RDC, 13 July 2008 - 06:08 PM.


#2 RDC

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Posted 13 July 2008 - 06:06 PM

Update

NOTE: The Wireless CG and CG2 board versions are the only ones that have a Common Cathode setup, all of the other controllers are a Common Anode setup .

Common Anode (all of the LEDs + are connected and - is turned on/off to light the LED)

Common Cathode (all of the LEDs - are connected and + is turned on/off to light the LED)


WIRELESS CG Version

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WIRED CL Version

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WIRELESS CG2 Version

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WIRELESS CG3 (White PCB) Version
NOTE: The Wireless CG3 board version uses a Charge Pump Inverter to supply a negative voltage to the Cathodes of the LEDs .

IPB Image

Edited by RDC, 14 December 2012 - 04:54 AM.


#3 BlackWar

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Posted 14 July 2008 - 01:24 AM

I have just one question....how the hell did you get such good high-res pics that close!?!?!?

If that was done with a camera, what make/model of cam was it? I tried to take close pics of my 360 mobo once, and got nothing but fuzz.....

#4 RDC

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Posted 14 July 2008 - 02:25 AM

Most of the full shots, where ya can see all of the LEDs, were done with a scanner. The close up set of them though, each individual LED, was done with my old 4MP Casio QV-R4 and an old camcorder eye piece and LED stuck on the end of the lens, looked like crud, but it got those pics. wink.gif Just about any camera with a lens similar to that on the end can get macro shots like that. I use a Konica Minolta Dimage Z6 now though, and even it's super macro mode doesn't get that close, or I use the scanner for most of my pics now, just depends on what I'm going for or want a pic of.

If your camera has a macro button, looks like a little flower, make sure that feature is on before trying to take any close up pics. Also you'll get some right awful blast from the flash most times and just end up with a pic of that reflecting off the board, take it outside and get a pic of it in the daylight. The shutter speed goes way up and ya don't have to worry about the flash ruining the shot and most times ya end up w0ith a 1000 times better pic, lot of digital cameras are like this. Also don't try and get right up on what ya want the picture of, pull away some so the camera can focus, then zoom in with some app and edit the pic up.

Edited by RDC, 16 July 2008 - 01:10 PM.


#5 Hifeno

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Posted 17 November 2008 - 06:01 AM

how do you remove these and replace them? Like with different colors. Also can you attach a second on the like the player one light and both still work? What kind of led do I need to use and where do you recommend getting them. Maybe radioshack?

#6 RDC

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Posted 17 November 2008 - 06:17 AM

I remove them with a Hot Air rework setup, but just covering them with solder and then gently wiping them off with a regular iron is also acceptable, and the only way to go about it really without causing damage or having a tip designed for that type of SMT rework. Just make sure ya heat up both ends of it at the same time and don't leave the iron on there too long or ya can cause the pads to lift, same goes for trying to force them off if it's not ready, that can cause the pads to be ripped off.

Putting them on with an iron ya just tack one side down, then solder the other end, then go back to the first one again if need be. With a rework setup or correct tip it's much easier and neater though as both ends can be heated at the same time.

The LEDs are Surface Mount, SMD, 0603 (size), same thing they use in the PS3 controllers.

Look online for them, loads of places have them.

#7 Protolisk

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Posted 17 November 2008 - 09:16 AM

You can also use 0805 which are slightly bigger.

#8 NYCXBOX

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Posted 23 February 2013 - 02:12 AM

On the CG3 board... (which by the way I have found some Green versions of it in Black controllers)
I tried replacing the White LEDs with Blue and they worked just fine.
I also tried RED, ORANGE, YELLOW and Purple.. they blink ONCE and then don't light up.
Any reason why a 0603 SMD LED would not work on the CG3 boards? Only White and Blue 0603 work?

Edited by NYCXBOX, 23 February 2013 - 02:12 AM.





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