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#1 RDC

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Posted 12 October 2006 - 04:43 PM

I've done quite a few Southpaw controller setups for people in the past few months, thanks to GRAW and a few other games lacking the option to do so in game, and I've even had a couple request to swap the D-pad and A,B,X,Y buttons as well, which took awhile to figure out but I got done also. That was fun a thing, to say the least, to figure out on the board and cut traces and rewire this and that so D-pad down was really A and the Y button did D-pad up and so on. But I've been wanting to attempt this type of case mod to go along with that mod for awhile now and see what all the challenges and such might be, well I found out.

This is the victim after several small drill holes and more than a few trips with the X-acto knife around the D-pad and ABXY holders...

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...and a quick swap to see what it would look like...

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...and with all the rest of it installed.

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I'm sure you've noticed the buttons are off 90 degrees, that's for 2 reasons. One, it made for flowing with how the controllers already curved and two, it's easier to mess with the buttons in some fashion (either repainting or making new ones, haven't decided exactly yet) than it is to mess with a heap of bondo and such to install them facing the correct way. Even if they were installed correctly, the way the B button is would just suck being on the right, having it at the bottom makes for a better button layout IMO, being curved the way it is.

Plastic Welder is the epoxy of my choice for messing with most plastics, the stuff eats into the two pieces and you'll be lucky if you ever get them back apart if you ever need to, provided they were preped right and glued together correctly in the first place. It's by no means pretty, but it's also not comming loose without a hammer or some other brute force to remove them.

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After that had setup good I took the Dremel to it and got it looking more like a controller again. Once the stuff is dry you can mess with it pretty much like most types of plastic. If you take care when mixing it up you shouldn't have many, air bubbles to have to deal with.

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After the Dremel butchering, take waaaay too long to hit all that with sandpaper and get it how ya want, plastic welder dries pretty hard, plus I planned on having to use Bondo and/or Glazing putty to get it all neat looking again anyway.

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As of now I'm pretty much done with it, painting and I don't get along well at all. Partly because I'm no good at it, and partly because I just don't "dig it" for some reason. If I could have hacked all this out and still kept it looking like a stock controller I would have, alas painting is gonna have to be brought in to finish this thing off so it looks good as well as works. So one of three things will happen, this thing stays looking like it is, perfectly functional but ugly as sin, it gets probably the worst pain job ever from me, or I toss it off to have it done by someone with a really good clue about painting and most likely to have my crap glazing job touched up as well. This is the first time I've tried using the stuff, and as far as I know, the first time anyones swapped the D-pad and A,B,X,Y buttons physically.

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It'll probably be awhile before I get around to even trying a paint job on it, I don't have a good indoor place to have at it and the weather has been crap for painting outdoors here with wind and all. Plus I haven't decided if this will be a Wired or Wireless and wanna paint it all at once and be done with it if I'm to do it. I'll never use the thing at all, I'm right handed and play with default controls in most games, this was just something mainly to see if I could do it and try out some things I've never used or done before. Any questions, comments or tips, aside from just about everythig I've read on here for painting tips, are more than welcome.

#2 NOZb2k

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Posted 12 October 2006 - 04:51 PM

Looks sweet but why not put it on the right way?

Edited by NOZb2k, 12 October 2006 - 04:53 PM.


#3 RDC

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Posted 12 October 2006 - 04:59 PM

QUOTE(NOZb2k @ Oct 12 2006, 11:58 AM) View Post

Looks sweet but why not put it on the right way?


Becase of the way the ABXY buttons are contoured on the controller, and then the way the hole is where the D-pad was. It "fits" better, even though it's turned 90 degrees. If I had put the ABXY button setup facing the right way, there would be a slight dip in the middle of the controller, and the B button is curved to fit in that place and that place only. So either making new buttons or painting these makes for a little more of a mess, but better looking after it's all done, I hope anyway. wink.gif

#4 grim_d

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Posted 12 October 2006 - 05:04 PM

while thats amazing, and i beleive it works perfectly. I thought the pads under the d-pad were analog?

#5 RDC

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Posted 12 October 2006 - 05:12 PM

QUOTE(grim_d @ Oct 12 2006, 12:11 PM) View Post

while thats amazing, and i beleive it works perfectly. I thought the pads under the d-pad were analog?


Thanks

Nah, this whole retched controller is digital, except for the Triggers and the Sticks movements. The Duke and S-controlers have Analog buttons though (A,B,X,Y, Blk & Wht). The D-pad still stinks too, even though it's on the other side of the controller now. biggrin.gif

#6 RDC

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Posted 14 October 2006 - 12:33 AM

While the weather's cruddy here and I can't even attempt a so-so paint job on this thing I figured I'd show what it takes to swap the D-pad an ABXY on the inside of the controller. This aplies only to the Wired M$ brand 360 controller and no others, the Wireless is a completely different beast inside and is a good deal more difficult to alter. This should NOT be attempted by a beginning modder, there are just way too many places where this can go wrong and cripple or ruin the controller. If you're not fairly proficient at trace cutting and repair, soldering, using the Dremel to drill a PCB and hack away plastic, then this isn't for you. Since this is for more of an advanced modder I haven't included pictures of after the trace cuts and all the wiring installed, I really never planned to make any kind of tutorial on this mod because of the just down right mess it makes and time it takes. The end result of just swapping the D-pad and ABXY will resemble this.

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Step 1 - Take the controller apart, there are 7 screws on the back, 1 is under the sticker.

Step 2 - Unplug the motors and unsolder the Triggers as well as the cords connector, you're going to be at this for awhile and having that thing dangling around while you're working on the board only puts unnecessary stress on it and is the biggest pain to have to screw with anyway. Remove the Analog Sticks as well, it also makes dealing with the board easier and if you're doing this mod odds are you'll be wanting to swap the sticks functions as well. If you can't get any of the stuff done in this step without asking for help or breaking something, you're not gonna do any better by reading on and trying any other part of this mod, stop now while you're ahead and have someone else take a look at it.

Step 3 - Once you start on this step you're commited to finishing the mod or ruining the controller, depends on your level of patience and skill. Now that you've got the board out you're ready to start cutting and drilling. We're going to do the TOP of the board first, by TOP I mean the "button side" of the board. There are 7 traces that need to be cut and 4 holes drilled.

These are the locations you'll need to be focusing on, we're going to work from left to right on the board.

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I personally use a Dremel for most of my Trace cutting. You can use that, or an X-acto knife, whichever you're better with. Practice on some junk board to see which works best for you if you haven't done much with either. A slip in any part of these steps can make a real mess to try and fix back up. If you're going to use the X-acto knife, make 2 cuts right next to each other a hairs width apart, that way you'll be sure the trace is severed. Just be careful and take your time, each tool is dangerous if used improperly, and no matter how good you are, accidents CAN happen.

This is a close up of the D-pad section, there are 4 Trace cuts and 3 Holes that need to be made in this section. The BLACK line is where you should cut the Trace at, you don't need to cut where the whole line is, just the trace it goes over. I've placed the cuts in posistions so if you slip a little while cutting it you shouldn't ruin anything else on the board. If you let the Dremel or X-acto knife get away from you though, anything on the board it touches is fair game. Also, cut ONLY where I have marked, don't go hacking the trace in another location, breaking the connection is only half of the reason for cutting it where I have marked, you have to have a certain amount of trace left in a certain spot to do the rest of the mod. The RED circles are ALL located at a Ground Via and are the locations to be drilled out with the Dremel. Use either the smallest Engraving bit, or the smallest Drill bit to do the job. If you do it correctly there will be no damage done to the controllers other Traces and parts. These Ground Vias can be drilled out and will cause no issue after being removed or change how the controller functions. It's just the most efficeint method for runnig the wires we'll be installing later from the top to the bottom of the board. So now you know, start cutting and drilling.

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Step 3a - This is a close up of the second section on the top of the board. There are 3 Trace cuts and 1 Hole that need to be made. The same steps should be taken for cutting these Traces as well, be careful and take your time.

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Step 4 - Now to the bottom of the board. On this side we have 8 Trace cuts to make. The holes are also marked in these pics, but that's just so you can confirm you got the correct spot drilled out from the previous steps.

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These are the close ups of the sections, again going from left to right on the board.


There are 2 Trace cuts to make in this section.
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There is 1 Trace cut to make in this section, and you should have a hole in the marked location.
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There is 1 Trace cut here and you should have 3 Holes in the marked locations.
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There are 3 Trace cuts in this section, the one next to D9 is one of the two hardest to make. BE VERY CAREFUL around D9, you don't want to go hacking into it with the Dremel or break it loose from the board at all.
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Only 1 Trace here and it's the second of the two hardest to make. Again, BE CAREFUL around D12 when making the cut.
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That does it for all the Trace cutting and drilling, I hope you enjoyed it as much as I did the first time around, the second third and fourth times are much easier to pull off. We'll get to the ubermess of rewiring all this bass ackwards so they're actually swapped after I get some time to arrange all those pics and such. Feel free to ask or comment away about anything, pertaining to this mod or along the lines at least, if ya want.


#7 liquid-core

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Posted 14 October 2006 - 01:12 AM

Wow. Amazing job. Deffinitely reminds me of Frankenstein.

O'Malley

#8 staildonut

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Posted 14 October 2006 - 04:21 AM

Wow, You are now the pioneer of Controller Mods. I am very interested in painting this controller. I am a well known custom painter on Xbox-Scene and there are lots of people who will vouch for me. PM me if you are interested!

#9 samfisher440

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Posted 14 October 2006 - 06:40 AM

Hells yeah, let stail do it biggrin.gif
I worthy controller mod should be finished off by a worthy painter biggrin.gif
I reckon some sort of creepy dead trees would be kool on it.

Sam

Wow...I'm an expert now

Edited by samfisher440, 14 October 2006 - 06:41 AM.


#10 Pro Driv3r

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Posted 14 October 2006 - 06:48 AM

ur crazzzy muhaha.gif muhaha.gif muhaha.gif muhaha.gif

#11 snow rider221

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Posted 14 October 2006 - 07:45 AM

We're not worthy!!!!

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#12 samfisher440

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Posted 14 October 2006 - 10:06 AM

Agreed biggrin.gif
I think I am going to have to do this to one of my old 's' controllers

Sam


#13 RDC

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Posted 14 October 2006 - 12:47 PM

You've got a PM staildonut.

Dunno how creepy dead trees would go with the mod, but I only have minimal requirements about how I'd like it painted (Triggers and Bumpers left stock, I'd like the ABXY buttons all white as well, then have the letter painted on with the correct color of that button, maybe some kinda metallic paint so it stands out some, Green A, Red B and so on. The rest of it will be left up to whoever does it, unless something changes between now and then and I get a specific idea for something.



Now we get to making the mess of rewiring everything. BEFORE YOU START, either make marks on the board in these locations or a real good mental note so you don't get any wires in these spots. When you put the controller back together there is bracing on the bottom half of the controller case that sits on the board in these spots. Any wiring there will get pinched, could short together and cause a real mess to straighten out or ruin the controller. You can see in the earlier picture of the finished board I didn't take this into account, so some of that bracing had to be removed with the Dremel. It would be alright to have to remove a little of it here or there, but it should all be left in place if possible (and it is, on later boards I've done I've had no problem routing the wires to avoid these spots), hence why I point it out before the wiring starts to take place.

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STEP 5 - Now we have all the traces cut it's time to rewire the buttons contacts, so when you push "A" the controller "thinks" you're really pushing the "D-pad Down". Since there are 14 wires to install (that's 28 very small solder joints you'll have to make) I'm not going into detail about what wire does what, just where it needs to go and the best place to get at it. EXTREME care should be taken when removing the masking from a trace or Via to attach a wire, especially at the 3 spots at the D-pad.

Wire 1 - TP45 to TP25 "D-pad UP to Y"

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Wire 2 - TP44 to Yellow Via "D-Pad RIGHT to B"

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Wire 3 - TP43 to D9 L "D-Pad LEFT to X"

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Wire 4 - TP46 to D9 U "D-Pad UP to Y"

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Wire 5 - U Via to D8 (N.C. point) "D-Pad UP to Y"

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Wire 6 - Dark Red Via to TP26 "D-Pad LEFT to X"

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Wire 7 - White/Red Via (at IC) to TP26 "D-Pad LEFT to X"

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Wire 8 - White/Blue Trace to Blue/White Via (at IC) "D-Pad RIGHT to B"

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Wire 9 - L Via thru hole #4 to D10 Blue (Top of Board) "D-Pad LEFT to X"

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Wire 10 - D11 Red to R Via "D-Pad RIGHT to B"

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Wire 11 - TP27 to White/Red Via "D-Pad LEFT to X"

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Wire 12 - White/Blue Trace (at IC) thru hole #1 to Red/White Trace (Top of Board at D-Pad UP) "D-pad UP to Y"

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Wire 13 - White/Blue Trace thru hole #2 to Blue/White (Top of Board at D-pad RIGHT) "D-pad RIGHT to B"

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Wire 14 - Dark Red Via thru hole #3 to Red/White Trace (Top of board at D-Pad DOWN) "D-Pad DOWN to A"

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Hot glue down any of the longer wires and get things looking a little more organized. The 3 top wires at the D-pad should have a TINY bit of super glue added to them, as should any wire that was soldered onto a trace. The ones that are soldered to the Vias have a pretty good anchor and most likely will not come undone if they were done correctly, but the wires soldered to the scraped down traces can be lifted very easily. Just make sure the solder conection is good and it's going to the right place, then put a tiny bit of glue on the wire right behind the solder joint to make sure it stays there.


When you're finished you should have a board that looks similar to this. REMEMBER DO NOT go by how I ran the wires on this one though, several of them cross the braces and would get pinched if you did. Some of the wiring on this board makes longer runs than in the above tutorial as well.

TOP
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BOTTOM
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If ya made it this far in the reading part and didn't just "site see" through the pics, you're either a serious left handed gamer, someone who seriously prefers a left handed setup, a hardcore modder who wants to try something different or was just curious if I wrote something funny down here, I didn't.

#14 BecomethemonsteR

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Posted 14 October 2006 - 01:36 PM

QUOTE(snow rider221 @ Oct 14 2006, 02:52 AM) View Post

We're not worthy!!!!

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I am.

#15 b15ginz

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Posted 14 October 2006 - 01:38 PM

wow...




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