Wireless Pnc Pack
Posted 16 October 2006 - 07:55 PM
You'll need an X-acto knife with a decent blade and the some super glue to put it back together.
Start off by going down both sides with the blade of the X-acto knife. Don't go twisting or prying with the blade, run it in a straight line, any twisting or prying is just going to snap the tip of the blade off.
After a few runs along the sides it should look something like this now.
The big pain of taking this thing apart is the bottom of it.
I just slice straight thru it, you only have to go a couple of millimeters deep before you're all the way thru and can start to prying on it a little bit. It takes maybe 5 of 6 good passes with the blade to get all the way thru, you'll feel it when it breaks thru, so pay attention and be careful.
You may want to run down the sides a couple more times and make sure nothing more can be broken loose there, you'll hear some creaking if something broke loose. Alternate between corners and pry a little bit on each one until you have a small gap. You'll be able to see the Batteries thru it and can tell that you don't want to go cutting really deep here or you'll get into them.
It'll take a little bit of force to get the halves seperated, you can see it's fused together as to not come apart easily at all. BE CAREFUL, when it finally breaks loose the batteries are glued in the top half, the connector and circuit board are in the bottom half. When it finally breaks loose and both halves want to go flying in opposite directions you could tear up the Thermistor and/or battery leads, BE CAREFUL. If you do tear out the Thermistor and only use the controller and PnC Kit to charge up your battery don't worry about it, it's not used at all when connected that way. I'm not sure about the Quick Charge Kit, I don't have one to tear apart, but I assume it IS used for that thing. So if ya charge your batteries with it and tear it off you'll need to fix it back up first.
Once ya have the two halves seperated you can pry the batteries out of the top half, they're held in with a little silicone, or maybe a lot, I'm sure this differs some from pack to pack. This one didn't have too much holding it in though.
Careful not to loose the spring that's on the button.
If you've painted it while it was apart, BEFORE you go to glue it back together make sure there is NO paint in either half at the spots where you'll be putting the glue. A little bit of Super Glue can go a long way if it's used right. Make sure you press the halves firmly back together for a few minutes until the glue sets up good, use a couple of rubber bands or set something of a decent weight on it, a big hardback book for example, to keep them pressed together for awhile.
This is a little more in depth of what's inside the PnC battery pack.
The batteries are Sanyo, Model HR-3U 2100mAh and are the Nickel Metal Hydride type.
Under this insulation strip...
...is the circuit board with Connector, EEPROM (Atmel 24C04N) and a few other parts.
This is what contact does what on the connector, if ya didn't see the board markings from the pic above this one. B-/P- is ground.
This is the schematic of the circuit board.
Posted 16 October 2006 - 07:59 PM
Edited by pablot, 16 October 2006 - 08:02 PM.
Posted 16 October 2006 - 08:15 PM
excellent! Thanks. Got any posibilites to dump the eeprom?
I used the same kind of reader that you'd use on the XBOX EEPROM, a couple of diodes, couple resistors and a DB9 connector. Just took an old Wireless bottom and the connector from the board, glued it all up, stuck in the battery and read it with PonyProg. No need for an external power source to be applied to VCC as long as the batteries are charged.
Posted 16 October 2006 - 08:29 PM
Posted 16 October 2006 - 08:37 PM
Also looks like it would be fairly easy to change out those batteries with higher capacity ones, like 2600 or 2800mAh
Posted 16 October 2006 - 08:41 PM
any chance u cam post the .bin file etc or the dump ?
Lord no, I have no clue what crapola M$ may have in there and I'm for sure not gonna find out the hard way it's something they don't want everyone seeing. Far as I can tell the majority of it's just the serial number (same number that's on the outside of the battery) then the text "XBOX Battery Pack" then the battery type HR-3U-2100. The "dunno" part is after that and is the only thing that differs from pack to pack besides the serial number. Pablots having a gander at it, if there's anything interesting there I'm sure we'll hear about it from him.
Posted 16 October 2006 - 08:43 PM
oh oh even better .... We can make the battery run unsigned code!!!!!
Posted 16 October 2006 - 08:48 PM
Edited by ben1989, 16 October 2006 - 08:57 PM.
Posted 16 October 2006 - 09:25 PM
drumroll please......and the key to running unsigned code on the 360 lies in.....THE BATTERY PACK!!!!
jk roflcopter lollerskates
Posted 17 October 2006 - 05:30 AM
0x00-0x0D: Battery pack serial number.
0x20-0x3F: String: "XBOX Battery Pack" (Padded with 0xFF)
0x80-0x80: Battery make, here: "HR-3U-2100" (Padded with 0xFF)
0x90-0x9E: Unknown, same between two battery packs with same
batteries so could be some charging related information.
Could also be hardware revision info or something.
0x9F: 0xFF when new, 0x01 after first charge (and stays that way)
0xA0-0xA7: see note below
0xA8-0xAF: These last two areas are quite alike. The first seven bytes
contain some information, probably charging statistics or something.
The last byte (the eight) of each section is a checksum of the first
seven bytes. Its a normal 8-bit checksum with the result 2-complemented.
all this info is based on just a few batteries, so it might not be completely accurate.
I'm gonna see if we can get some more info by using the batteries some time and then doing another dump to see if some data changes (I wouldn't be suprised). Best thing would be to find a pack with other batteries to see what data changes.
Why is this interesant? Well, as got maxx said, then you could swap to better batteries or replace your old ones when they start to wear out.
Edited by pablot, 27 January 2007 - 10:46 PM.
Posted 17 October 2006 - 07:13 AM
You can just use rechargable double a's in your 360 controller without getting a play and charge.
My 2500 mah will give me a week of solid gaming on one charge.
I would say that the best way to extend the life of your batteries is to disable the rumble feature.
But back to the matter at hand . What can be achieved by altering a batteries firmware??
Posted 17 October 2006 - 07:26 AM
Speculation: There is just some data on the eeprom that is used by the controller to apply the correct batterycharging algorithm.
I just find it fun to find out stuff like that, but this is possibly quite oftopic for a casemodding forum. So maybe the relevant post should be split onto a separate topic in some other forum..
Posted 17 October 2006 - 08:38 PM
Maybe we can overclock the battery!!!! hahahahaa
oh oh even better .... We can make the battery run unsigned code!!!!!
Bah, we all know you're scouring the internet to find a radiator that will fit inbetween the batteries...and a round water block...
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