How to Removal Video - Black Epoxy On New Xbox360 Drives
Posted 04 November 2006 - 10:29 PM
This black epoxy (not glue) needs a higher temperature. Anything between 100-120°C is ok.
now enjoy it!
Posted 05 November 2006 - 04:20 AM
Posted 05 November 2006 - 04:40 AM
However they say they blow a TORCH which I do not see on the video and cant imagine using a torch.
Textbook did you find anything?
Posted 05 November 2006 - 05:03 AM
Posted 05 November 2006 - 05:13 AM
Posted 05 November 2006 - 05:43 AM
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Posted 05 November 2006 - 07:41 AM
Posted 05 November 2006 - 10:14 AM
Posted 05 November 2006 - 03:07 PM
Posted 05 November 2006 - 03:57 PM
Posted 05 November 2006 - 05:23 PM
how does he solder it back to the board? How does he remove the solder? Jeeze that's amazing.
I practiced this last night with a crappy broken down dvd drive (not a 360 drive)
Not the epoxy just removing the chip.
I did just as the video did....
A good soldering iron helps alot..
put a line of solder across the legs on one side....
then take exacto knife and put pressure on one side while taking solder iron and running it through the solder back and forth back and forth.
I only have a 15watt soldering iron.. I suggest using a slightly higher wattage because 15 seems a little low to warm up the whole line of solder quickly enough.
anyway finally you start to see the legs lift from their pads...
do the same to the other side... and boom its removed.
clean up the solder from the board very easy.... then with barely any solder on the tip just graze the pads left behind and they will be shinny which means they are tinned ready for the chip to be put back on.
the chip has very small legs and you need to clean them up also when removed... again just drag the dry soldering iron across them ever so slightly and the solder will come right off the legs.
becarefull not to bend the legs when removing ... make sure they are flat again before putting back on.
put chip back on tinned pads...
line them up (magnifying glass helps alot) line up the connections by tapping each corner leg to align properly otherwise if you start with one then go around in order it will more than likely move by the time you get to the end of one side.. causing miss alignment.
once tapped down.. tap the rest of connections running soldering iron down the legs not perpendicular but the same direction the legs are laying down.
you really do not need solder on the iron for this since you left the pads tinned.. so your solder really if done right should not cross legs. thats why I did not go across the pins... rather move iron down the pins.
tested with multimeter and all connections were good!
now for a programmer... thats another ball game and is quite expensive
the person in the video makes it look VERY VERY easy and is amazing..however if you practice enough its not that hard.
Found the pyropens you mentioned here
Would any of those pens/kits do the job or would it HAVE to be the 120?
Any chance of a link to the best programmer & adapter too?
Make sure you read about the pyropens... I have found alot do a torch (flame) which is not what you want... it seems it depends on the TIP you use for some. So when you purchase one.. make sure the tips that you get with it do the HOT AIR way not a TORCH! just a suggestion.
Edited by majik655, 05 November 2006 - 05:20 PM.
Posted 05 November 2006 - 06:00 PM
27C256 & Enhanced Willem EPROM Programmer BIOS FWH MCS
27C512 & Enhanced Willem EPROM Programmer BIOS FWH MCS
27C32 Dual Powered (USB/AC) Willem EPROM Programmer
27SF512 & Dual Power Willem Universal EPROM Programmer
all of these are about 40$
but there are others that are 100$+/-
could someone point to what they KNOW for sure would work on ebay? Keep in mind pricing for some of us. No need to spend 100$ if the 40$ will do it.
Posted 05 November 2006 - 06:05 PM
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