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Bridged Write-enable Points Makes Xbox Not Boot


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#1 nam133

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Posted 24 May 2003 - 03:46 AM

While flashing a 1.1 Xbox with the Sharp TSOP last night, I came across an interesting new twist-- this particular box wouldn't boot with the top TSOP write-enable points bridged. Many people have talked about flashing Sharp TSOPs, pointing out that you need to solder an extra wire to give pt11 on the TSOP 5V (which is true), but no one has mentioned this.

If your Xbox won't boot and does this -- light comes on and stays green, but there is no video, this is the problem. To get around it to flash, you simply need to unbridge the write-enable points on the top of the motherboard, then effectively rebridge them once the console has booted. To do this I soldered a wire to each point and then connected the ends after booting. A switch between the two would make life easy, I didn't have one.

Once the Xbox has booted up, connect the wires (or flip your switch) and you're ready to flash in Linux. After you have flashed a mod bios, the fact that the write-enable points are still bridged will no longer be a problem, it will boot fine.

Can someone confirm for me that new MS bioses are actually checking for TSOP write-enable on boot up? That seems to be what's happening.







#2 smokeingit

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Posted 24 May 2003 - 08:55 AM

i thought i made a post of this 2 months ago.... the correct way of doing is unbridging the bottom write enable. once the unit boots up rebridge it.

#3 nam133

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Posted 24 May 2003 - 02:12 PM

Apologies smokeingit, i must have missed it when i searched.

For the record though, in my case unbridging/rebridging the points on the top of the motherboard is what worked for me, I left the bottom ones bridged the entire time.

Edited by nam133, 24 May 2003 - 02:13 PM.


#4 smokeingit

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Posted 24 May 2003 - 05:45 PM

oh top ones work as well? we had issue's on this at xboxhacker. but i will try it again from the top and see if it works. it would make it alot easier =) no need for apologies

#5 galo2

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Posted 01 June 2003 - 04:15 AM

I don't exactly have your problem, but wondered if a red/green flash eject button while having the tsop write-enabled (both on the top and bottom, plus the p11 to v5+) will make the same effect...
I've successfully flashed my TSOP (ST - M29F080A), after raincoat runs it says everything's ok, it verifies ok, I reboot and it FRAGs...
Do I really need to unbridge the solder points on the top and back ??? (i'd like to avoid doing that if at all possible).

tks for your help and sorry if posting to a wrong thread...

#6 smokeingit

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Posted 01 June 2003 - 06:36 AM

Frags huh? then some how you screwed it up... well first off, take the damn P11 to 5+ off the damn mobo... (yes you fucked up) that connection is for sharp bios's that need a force flash. then 2nd tell us what Xbox you have and bios version.







#7 galo2

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Posted 01 June 2003 - 12:37 PM

I've got a 1.1 xbox. My TSOP is a ST - M29F080A.

Is this the 'sharp' brand bios that needed p11 bridged ?
The only way to make my xbox to boot is by bridging A19 to VCC right now..

The BIOS I flashed is a 1mb like this:
ORIG+ORIG+D6+D6

Tks for your help, I appreciate it.

#8 smokeingit

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Posted 01 June 2003 - 07:40 PM

well now you have to use the raincoat method. boot it with A19 *VCC bridged, then once it boots open the switch to it can flash the whole chip and not part of it. and do it again.

#9 galo2

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Posted 02 June 2003 - 04:06 AM

Ok, fixed my problem.
I screwed up things when using D6 in combination with the original bios. The only way to make my xbox to work again (without bridging A18 or A19) was to reflash with D6+D6+D6+D6.

This is working fine for me now.
The reason I flashed all D6 is I'm not going to put switches to bridge A18 or A19 right now... maybe sometime later but not now.

Tks




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