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Wireless Matrix Controller Button / Trigger Solder Points


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#1 RDC

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Posted 25 January 2007 - 06:05 PM

Here we go again, but wireless this time. wink.gif Wired Controller points are shown HERE.

Pay no attention to the traces that are colored, just the lettering that points to the spot. These are about the best locations to go attaching wires to if you're wanting to add more buttons to the controller. If you're making an Arcade Stick they're pretty useful too, though you can just scratch off the black contact material on the button's contacts and solder there if ya wish also. That method is no good for adding extra buttons to a controller you want to keep functional though, so I made these up for that purpose mainly. One of the Guide button spots had to be made on a Via, so if you want to duplicate that button you'll have to attach a wire to it. Have a read HERE for the proper way to scrape down, prep and solder a wire to a Via so it's (hopefully) not damaged in the process and ya get a good connection that will last for some time. Removing the Triggers to get to a few of the spots is needed also and just makes it a lot easier. You have to desolder 3 joints and then they unclip from the board. The plastic can be cut away where the wires are so if ya need to reinstall them they don't pinch it, there's plenty of places it makes contact with the board and removing a little doesn't change how it sits, just groove out a little of it where it would be pinching a wire so it's just barely touching it instead, then reinstall it.

The spots are labeled as such...

A = A
B = B
X = X
Y = Y

DU = D-pad Up
DD = D-pad Down
DL = D-pad Left
DR = D-pad Right

BK = Back
ST = Start
GU = Guide
SY = Sync

LB = Left Bumper
RB = Right Bumper

LT = Left Trigger
RT = Right Trigger

LSC = Left Thumb Stick "Click" Button
RSC = Right Thumb Stick "Click" Button


Each button has two spot, like A1 and A2. It doesn't matter which one you attach to which side of your new button, as long as you get these two points to touch, you'll duplicate that button when it's pressed. Some buttons do share a common line, so they've been compounded on that one spot to make it less cluttered, for example: A, D-pad Down, D-pad up and the Right Bumper (A2/DD2/DU2/RB2) all share a common connection, so for any of those buttons you can attach 1 of the two wires for your new button to that spot, and then the other wire would go to A1, DD1, DU1 or RB1 respectively.

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*NOTE: Actual soldering for the LT and RT spots is on the opposite side of the board. If you're going to attach an extra button to duplicate one of the Triggers, you use LT1 and LT2, or RT1 and RT2 respectively. The reason LT3/RT3 is there and marked is ONLY for those making an Arcade stick and wishing to remove the Triggers from the board for whatever reason. If the Trigger IS removed a 10k Resistor MUST be installed from LT1 to LT3 or RT1 to RT3. Any common variety 10k 1/4w will do just fine. This is to keep the controller "thinking" that a Trigger is installed and "off", not pulled. Removing it without installing the 10k Resistor will cause it to act up in some cases, the new button either will not work or will not return to the "off" position when released. Pressing the new button you're installing between 1 and 2 will duplicate the "on", pulled effect of the Trigger. Also note that you WILL lose the Analog function on the new Trigger button, it will either be on or off, no middle ground like you can achieve by pulling the Trigger partly in. This does not change the way the Trigger acts if it's left installed, it will still be Analog when you use it.

TOP
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BOTTOM
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MATRIX LAYOUT
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Edited by RDC, 07 December 2012 - 12:42 AM.


#2 Mad-Man-666

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Posted 25 January 2007 - 06:17 PM

damn RDC you been busy blink.gif .... keepem coming

#3 refresh

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Posted 03 April 2007 - 10:00 PM

So all I have to do is solder the button from a-a, b-b, x-x and y-y? And where is y? Does the solder stick to all the points without scraping? Thanks

Edited by refresh, 03 April 2007 - 10:01 PM.


#4 YUNG ERIC

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Posted 03 April 2007 - 10:08 PM

yeah just as the tut says solder to where the arrows are pointing an there should be no scraping needed.

#5 YUNG ERIC

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Posted 04 April 2007 - 12:41 AM

I know its hard to see it took me a while to find. but its actually on the 4th picture next to DR1 and you can see the y2 is the same as Rth2, B2, and X2.

The color is really hidden in there

#6 refresh

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Posted 06 April 2007 - 06:51 AM

I can personally vouch for these soldering points. Thanks so much rdc. i got all my "wiring" done.. by touching the stripped ends of each wire together they all worked. Thanks again.

#7 iicanceii

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Posted 06 April 2007 - 09:56 PM

i replaced my trigger because i broke the original one trying to desolder it, and now it wont fire at all! it was firing constantly when i first replaced it, then i added more solder and now it wont fire at all! Please help

#8 refresh

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Posted 07 April 2007 - 08:29 PM

Hey rdc can you use the left side of C48 for A instead of that point up top? Thanks

#9 RDC

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Posted 07 April 2007 - 11:16 PM

QUOTE(iicanceii @ Apr 6 2007, 05:03 PM) View Post

i replaced my trigger because i broke the original one trying to desolder it, and now it wont fire at all! it was firing constantly when i first replaced it, then i added more solder and now it wont fire at all! Please help

Answered in your PM.

QUOTE(refresh @ Apr 7 2007, 03:36 PM) View Post

Hey rdc can you use the left side of C48 for A instead of that point up top? Thanks

Yes, although I really don't recommend soldering onto that small of a surface mount part unless ya really have to. I know it saves ya the trouble of having to pull the Trigger housing off the board and all, but if ya do it make sure you're using a pretty small wire, like 30awg, so there's as little stress on there as possible and after you have the wire attached (and know it's done right) put a dab of hot glue over it to keep it that way and help avoid it coming off.

Edited by RDC, 10 October 2010 - 11:12 AM.


#10 refresh

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Posted 08 April 2007 - 05:34 AM

Yeah rdc, soldering to that capacitor makes things 10x easier. I finished a 2 button mod in like 10 minutes. Thanks again. Pm me when you get my controllers. Thanks.

#11 FeRsHiZzLe

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Posted 20 September 2007 - 01:24 AM

Question...I wired LB1 to X1 and LB2 to X2, so that LB would be like pressing X. It worked, but now when I press X or LB, it also makes Y go off. How can I make it so Y doesn't go off? Or better yet, is there a way to make it press Y twice after X is initiated?

#12 RDC

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Posted 20 September 2007 - 02:44 AM

You can't just go rewiring the thing like that without cutting some traces, that's why the Y button is firing off when you press X or LB, as well as both X and LB are going off at the same time now too, so you have 3 button presses all at once going off when you press either X or LB, pressing X fires X, LB and Y, pressing LB fires LB,X and Y. That needs to be undone and then redone correctly if you want LB to be X, and then you loose LB unless you're going to swap them, and that's more work.

The only way to do Macros is to use a PIC or MCU and program it to fire off the timing, number and times of button presses.

#13 FeRsHiZzLe

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Posted 20 September 2007 - 03:26 AM

I'm not worried about losing LB, this is just for Halo anyways and Up on the D pad does the same thing. So what traces would need to be cut to get LB to be X? And I also want to keep X, X.

#14 RDC

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Posted 20 September 2007 - 03:38 AM

If you used the actual LB1 and LB2 spots there in the pics, then just cut the Pink and Blue w/White Dot traces there that come from it. That will isolate the LB button and since you already have it wired up to the X1/2 spots it'll then be X all the time and X stays X.

#15 kernelboy

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 01:55 PM

If i just wanted to duplicate right bumper would i only have to attach to rb1 and rb2 without cutting any traces or anything?




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