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?capacitor/resistors? That Are Under The Gpu (in The White Outlined Ar


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#1 2df

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Posted 10 February 2007 - 02:51 PM

A bit of a strange question...

In the white outlined part under the GPU (under the metal cross) there are 4 rows of 4 of these things each. (there are more of these things but they are not in the rows).
Can anybody tell me what these things are (likely to be capacitors), and what value/type number etc. these are ?

Due to the crappy soldering of MS one of these things came loose (error 0102), I was able to resolder it (dont ask me how) and it worked again for about a week.
The second time I tried to solder it back but it got lost... now I want to try soldering a new one in place, but I need to know what to buy.

So please if anyone can help me...

tia,

S2df

#2 Teitoku

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Posted 10 February 2007 - 10:59 PM

Hard to say without a photo.

#3 RDC

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Posted 10 February 2007 - 11:21 PM

Yes those are Capacitors. The only way of knowing the exact value of it would be to have the parts list of the 360, ask someone that designed it or remove one from a known working board and measure it with the correct insturment. If none of those things happen you'll have to rob one from some other dead board and use it.

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#4 Solmod

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 06:21 AM

Please help me too sad.gif

I also made this mistake puttong the Xclamp back on I knock one of these weak resistor off and lost it uhh.gif

If someone fixed this please say what to resistor get and what to do I am lost

#5 devilspy

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 01:59 PM

Ok here is my problem...I had a working/boot every time xbox that would freeze only during gears of war, decided to do the heatgun fix, at 1000f as recommended by some....
gpu looked good after heatgun was done, put it back together and got buzzing sound and error 0003 . Barely found any information of value except this post

QUOTE(G0t M4xx 21 @ Jan 28 2007, 10:35 PM) View Post

error 0003 is a problem with the regulators for the CPU/GPU, so either the regulators died, or one of those chips fried and died, and is shorted out.

So it's definitely a motherboard issue.


So upon looking at this post with the provided image and ppl mentioning scraping off thier caps/resistors i decided to double check, lo and behold I think I found the problem! i didnt scrape though, I melted.

I am missing the circled capacitor, the one next to it ..to the left, is half off kind of warped looking, also the other one with the arrow the big one looks liek its melted, I stayed in the area wat too long with a 1000f heatgun.
IPB Image
hmm IPB image ? well ehre is another link
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All of my hope was lost till now, this board was about to go for sale as parts, but if i could fix it even by bypass the resistor with a chance of frying the chip in the future i dont mind...shoudl I risk it by bridging the two points together tongue.gif Or does someone knwo what these are..I may have to repalce more than the ones circled since who knows what internal damage coudl have bee ndone to the rest at excessive heat?

Edited by devilspy, 20 February 2007 - 02:05 PM.


#6 Fatsu

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 03:10 PM

Not really an expert at the multimeter using a cen-tech p30756
anyway checked the ohm reading at 200 ..getting 0.4 ohms to 0.5ohms on those little 4rows where I'm missing the resistor..but getting same reading from the points..same reading with flashing lights..dont think its sendign any voltages to the area..or i'm not testing on proper setting.

#7 RDC

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 03:20 PM

I really wish you had a good pic of the actual damage, so others can start to get the point that a Heat Gun and a 360 should be left in different parts of the house. They are way too hot and the amount of air they move isn't something you want at all around tiny Surface Mount parts when the solder is molten.

Every part under the GPU, or the rest of the board for that matter, that is a Small Brown Rectangle is a CAPACITOR, not a Resistor. Resistors are either going to be Black or Blue. You can NOT "bridge" where a Capacitor was with solder, ever. Physically, yes you can, but you wont like the reality of it at all and it should never be done. In the best of cases you'll be making a short and the thing just wont work, worst case you make a short and it takes something else out with it, so don't do it.

Some Capacitors can be left out of circuit or have the values slightly changed and there isn't much of a difference in the way the circuit will work, but some are extremely critical and used for timing or passing signals and MUST be of a certain value, as well as be replaced by the exact same value to retain the proper function of said circuit. Since there isn't much technical data on the 360 and what value each part is and what they doexactly, they SHOULD be replaced with the same exact value component.

As has been stated in this thread before... The only way of knowing the exact value of it would be to have the parts list of the 360, ask someone that designed it or remove one from a known working board and measure it with the correct insturment. If none of those things happen you'll have to rob one from some other dead board and use it.

#8 devilspy

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 03:38 PM

google is your friend it seems this doesnt paste well so here is the link 360 parts list
Still dont know which I need ..the pic is urs photoshopped ..the one circled in yellow is the one i'm missing.

Motherboard, Bottom CPU Passive Capacitor 256 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 0402 2
Motherboard, Bottom GPU Passive Capacitor 3 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 1206 2
Motherboard, Bottom GPU Passive Capacitor 12 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 0805 2
Motherboard, Bottom GPU Passive Capacitor 3 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 0603 2
Motherboard, Bottom GPU Passive Capacitor 121 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 0402 2
Motherboard, Bottom Display Driver Passive Capacitor 4 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 1206 2
Motherboard, Bottom Display Driver Passive Capacitor 3 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 0805 2
Motherboard, Bottom Display Driver Passive Capacitor 2 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 0603 2
Motherboard, Bottom Display Driver Passive Capacitor 29 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 0402 2
Motherboard, Bottom Southbridge Passive Capacitor 7 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 1206 2
Motherboard, Bottom Southbridge Passive Capacitor 3 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 0805 2
Motherboard, Bottom Southbridge Passive Capacitor 11 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 0603 2
Motherboard, Bottom Southbridge Passive Capacitor 42 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 0402 2
Motherboard, Bottom Memory Passive Capacitor 2 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 1206 2
Motherboard, Bottom Memory Passive Capacitor 2 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 0603 2
Motherboard, Bottom Memory Passive Capacitor 4 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 0402 2
Motherboard, Bottom Memory Passive Capacitor 40 Ceramic Multilayer - C0G/NP0 Gray 0402 2
Motherboard, Bottom Clock Passive Capacitor 1 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown 0805 2
Motherboard, Bottom Clock Passive Capacitor 8 Ceramic Multilayer - X5R/X7R Brown

#9 devilspy

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 04:00 PM

Ok I think its the x5r /x7r ones
here is what i found thus far


Common "TC" include:
X5R = 15% change over -55C~+85C Standard Tolerance: K = 10%
X7R = 15% change over -55C~+125C Standard Tolerance: K = 10%

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"Substitution Rule: A component with a more stable (better) temperature coefficient (TC) can replace a less temperature stable TC component.
i.e...an X7R ceramic can replace X5R, Z5U or Y5V ceramic part
i.e...an NPO ceramic can replace a X5R, X7R or Z5U or Y5V ceramic "


Convertion guide maybe use something else..these seem to be certain temp resistant

#10 RDC

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 04:54 PM

Google isn't much of a friend in this case, now all you know is what temperature the caps can withstand, but still have no idea what the values are. wink.gif The 1206, 0805, 0603 and 0402 are just the physical sizes of them and have nothing to do with what value they may be.

#11 devilspy

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 04:57 PM

Found even more data and potential sites for ordering, seems like size equites thier power.
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image

More info can be found here http://www.koaspeer....tors.asp?part=8

and here

http://industrial.pa...3 ABK0002 4 WW


I'm all researched out for the moment.

Hope this gets the ball rolling.

#12 devilspy

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 06:48 PM

QUOTE(superstrider @ Oct 19 2006, 09:05 PM) View Post

Need some help or advice here. I started getting error 0102 about a week ago on my 360. I did some research and tried the arctic silver 5 and also the hot gun fix but got very little results. The 360 starts up after being heated and works for about 15 minutes before freezing and resulting in error 0102 after being restarting.

I then carefully removed the clamps again and decided to check for loose solder points and to my surprise I found a broken component. I'm not sure if the component would be called a capacitor or resistor but it looked broken. The location is on the underside of the MOBO directly under the GPU (please refer to attached Pic).

I really don't think I could have broke it off as I was really careful while removing the clamps. Now I'm pretty confident of my soldering skills, is there anyway I can replace/repair this? Please help.
IPB Image

QUOTE(G0t M4xx 21 @ Oct 20 2006, 08:57 PM) View Post

that capacitor really isn't necessary, if you look, it is simple in parallel with ALL those other capacitors around it, it simply acts as a filter on the main power supply for the GPU. Like BCfosheezy said, having that component missing does not actually break any circuits. However, it would be advisable to replace it.



Searched xbox-scene forums .. picture above is exactly how mine looks like except not as shiny..the other cap is partly off to the left..next to the one thats off. I dunno if that would be the cause of error 0003 and buzzing sound or what..since new evidence seems to suggest it should still at least work but might be more problems with my board than are visible to the eye.

#13 RDC

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 06:55 PM

Yes the physical size of the Cap does equate to the power it can handle, but it still has jack to do with figuring out the actual value (uF, pF) of it, the part you NEED to know. You can see from the datasheet the X5R and X7R series both have values that range from 0.068uF to 22uF and 100pF to 4.7uF respectively.

Exactly, most Caps, not all but most, that have one side attached to Ground are more than likely filter Caps. These should be in place, especially when dealing with an IC or chip like the GPU, but odds are it will run fine without the thing on there. I'd be looking more on the top of the board, if you had enough heat on the bottom to get those parts loose then who knows what else has gone flying off the board in a lot more sensitive area. The GPU has Caps on it and if any of those were removed you could bank on it not working correctly.

#14 devilspy

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 07:08 PM

Well..I'm more than sure now it was the clips that did it not the heatgun even though the heat may have been a bit excessive..the top looks good..nothing missing or warped..its the bottom i didnt have good view of.

I would think if we can contact ATI or have them provide data sheet for r500 / r520 gpu core we would be onto something here.



#15 Solmod

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Posted 21 February 2007 - 01:38 AM

Yes that one circled and shown in the picture is the same as mine

It does not work I think it stops it working, to those that say it should work, no..3 red light for me every time
Rest of motherboard is fine..

I thank for research but we have no solution I hope an expert can help




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