My 240sx Search and Build up
Posted 23 February 2009 - 09:14 PM
also had to pull out most of the underdash stuff to get the factory harness out
before the mount kit gets here I need to do the following
-label and remove the LS1 harness
-remove the corvette headers
-swap out the corvette oil pan for a GTO oil pan
-swap out the auto flywheel for the 6 speed flywheel and clutch
-saws-all off a couple of nubs on the transmission and mount it to the motor
then when the kit gets in we can drop in the motor...
once that's done it's all plumbing and wiring (which is a whole lot more work than it sounds)
also last saturday I bought some new wheels... here are some picture (the previous owner of the wheels had the same exact car as me so these are pics of his car):
Posted 25 February 2009 - 11:48 PM
Posted 26 February 2009 - 01:08 AM
Good luck with the engine conversion, keep us posted.. Ive got cracking with mine aswell this last week or two, this weekend should be the big change though so i'll no doubt try and keep posted on here aswell.
Looking nice though, bet its going to be a beast when done
Posted 28 February 2009 - 07:15 PM
I picked up an engine stand and an engine leveler at the Tractor supply company that recently opened up near me (that place is AWESOME for tools)
Edited by twistedsymphony, 28 February 2009 - 08:07 PM.
Posted 01 March 2009 - 03:56 AM
Posted 07 March 2009 - 12:02 AM
one thing I DID manage to do last night though... I took some dimensions to send to local manufacturer for a custom badge I'm going to have made
Posted 07 March 2009 - 03:26 PM
sweet looking mount! i've been watching your wip...and frankly; i'm quite impressed with what you are doing. i'm fixin' to start a wip o' my own...soon. it's nice and warm here in texas ...i'm hoping to get a bunch done today and have s'more pix to start my wip.
Posted 19 March 2009 - 02:19 AM
Next time I have a 2nd set of hands to help me I'll throw it up on the stand (I don't trust my ghetto-ass cherry picker to do it myself) then I can swap out the oil pan then drop it back down and throw on the new LS6 clutch... yummy
I also spent some time pulling off a bunch of unneeded brackets and other crap from the transmission and cleaned it up a bit while I was at it and mocked up the new transmission cross member.
My main attention now will be on the harness, I dumped all of the harnesses that I need to tie together into a big box and brought it into my office... looks kind of overwhelming.
Though spreading the KA harness out on the floor so you can see the whole thing all at once it doesn't look so bad. Trimming off the KA bits will be the easy part... the hard part will be weeding through what is and isn't needed on the LS1 harness.
I'll be documenting the harness modifications as well as I can, it seems to be the most poorly documented aspect of the swap... I'm much better at splicing wires than I am at turning wrenches so hopefully I'll be able to handle it without a problem :good:
Posted 17 April 2009 - 06:03 PM
got rid of this rubber sh*t on my KA harness
cutt off the unused brackets on the trans for extra clearance
had to buy a new pedal and a "TAC" module that works with the motor setup
More work got done over the weekend, Oil oil pan was pulled off.
GM apparently decided it was a good idea to rivet the gasket to the oil pan so those had to be drilled off of the used GTO pan before we cleaned it up.
Windage tray and the new oil pickup tube bolted right up... say Hi to Joe...
however now I'm stuck on this... this is the old dip-stick hole which needs to be plugged. On newer GM vehicles they tap it and use a 1/8 NPT pipe plug. Joe and I drove around to every store in Tilton and Lowes was the only place that sold the tap, no one sold the plug. so I ordered the plug off of ebay ... after shipping I'm paying essentially $5 for a screw... waiting on that, I also picked up an in-lb torque wrench because the behemoths that I had were all too big to do internal engine stuff properly.
old cross member was pulled out too, here it is next to the new one. you can see the cut out center cross section and the engine mount humps are at a different angle (the new one is a modified RB cross member).
the new cross member is back in the car but the steering rack isn't bolted back in yet, I decided to order some steering rack bushings while it's off so I'm waiting for those.
I also got into today a bracket for the Clutch Master. This thing is f-ing slick... I don't know why I'm so excited about this little part but I am. I guess I just think it's cool that a custom part designed by some random guy looks so pro, and it was dirt cheap too, $25 shipped. I got it from Rigid over on silviav8.
I got my long-tube headers in too, I didn't get a chance to snap any picture of them though... in due time
another problem is that the placement of the GTO dip-stick it hits the back of AC compressor... I wont know how big of a problem it will be until I get the pan fully installed.
I've been working on the car regularly, the cross member has been installed with some new energy suspension bushings, I got the firewall cutout for the clutch pedal (and then sanded and painted) and the clutch pedal is installed with my snazzy adapter bracket. I can't put in the new clutch master until I get a rod and U bracket from an original 240 clutch master... I was going to grab one from Pat last Saturday but he couldn't find it
I took some measurements of dripht240's s14 pedals while I was there to get an idea of where I should cut my auto brake pedal as well as an idea of where the gas pedal should be mounted..
I discovered that Kurt is a filthy liar... (because he told me to just cut down the brake pedal instead of buying a new one) the way the S14 Auto brake pedal is designed it's impossible to cut it down and have it aligned in same spot as the brake pedal on the 5-speed... it would seem that this works on the S13 sice the arm mounts to the right hand side of the pedal on the S13 but it doesn't work on the S14 since the arm mounts to the center...
so now I need to find a new brake pedal... or at least a pedal arm to swap out... I can get a bran new one from Nissan for ~$75 which isn't TOO bad but I'd rather not spend that much if I don't have to.
I've also assembled the clutch line and the remote clutch bleeder... for reference here are the parts I used:
for the Bleeder setup:
everything ordered from http://www.pegasusautoracing.com
Male 10x1.5mm Metric Convex Seat to 4AN Male, Steel - 3265-44
18 inch Size 4 TFE Hose, Straight Swivels, Both Ends - 4-18-S-S
Female 10x1.0mm Metric Concave Seat to 4AN, Steel - 3265-19
10x1.0mm Bleeder Screw - 3266-03
Bleeder Screw Protective Cap - 3266-CAP
for the clutch line:
Fitting, Adapter, Banjo Bolt w/Crush Washer 3/8"-24 Single, Steel, Zinc, Each - EAR-997503ERL
Adapter Fitting; Flare Clutch Fitting; AN Size -3; Male - RUS-640281
that "flare clutch fitting" was only sold in pairs costing $22 so I bought a 2nd brake line to make 2 clutch cables and I figure I'll sell the other one.
I still need to mount the clutch lines to the trans and test fit it to make sure it's hammered out enough.
I also got my dip-stick plug in and James let me borrow a tap so I'll be wrapping up the oil pan swap soon.
I've also started identifying everything on the LS1 harness and wrapping my head around that... the GM FSM BLOWS but I've got an ecu pinout and using that I've found the GM Harness WAY more easy to work with than the KA harness... so hopefully I can get the harness all squared away.
hmm what else... oh yeah I bought an energy suspension master bushing set so I'll be swapping out a bunch of that stuff while it's easy to work on/get to and I've cleaned up the engine bay a bit more.
I've been taking pictures but I haven't pulled any of them off of the camera yet..
Edited by twistedsymphony, 17 April 2009 - 07:44 PM.
Posted 17 April 2009 - 08:08 PM
Also I've spent just about every night this week with a multi-meter and the LS1 harness figuring out which wire goes where and developing my own wiring diagrams
I've got it mostly figured out... what once looked like an overwhelmingly daunting task is now makes a lot of sense in my head.
this weekend I've got to do some stuff to my Vehicross... oil change, tire rotation, maybe fix my dead plate light (which is WAY more involved than it sounds)
if I work on the 240 I'll be mounting the clutch lines and test fitting the transmission and finishing up the oil pan.
Posted 26 May 2009 - 09:16 PM
engine bay cleared out
clutch lines installed and all unnecessary hardware removed
my craftsman torque wrench broke so we had to use an old-school torque wrench to install the clutch hardware. Also a friend of mind that works at a dealership supplied me with bolts for the clutch and bell housing and the flywheel bolts were the wrong size and they were short 2 bell housing bolts... Aggravating. Thankfully the flywheel bolts from automatic flywheel worked on the new fly wheel and we found some bolts that worked with the bell housing for the time being... placed those on the bottom so they can be swapped out later.
once the transmission was mounted up we set the clutch master in a vice and tested the lines for leaks... I didn't want to have to pull the whole thing back out of the car to fix the lines if there was a problem. It was kind of ridiculous but it worked well and the lines held up beautifully
dropping in the engine:
Once the engine was in and we attempted to bold it up we ran into some major fitment issues. It's sitting in the car right now but we're going to have to pull it back out to figure out how to get everything to fit. We didn't have time to test-fit the headers but a quick attempt showed that it wouldn't be easy and I'm concerned about their fitment as well.
First thing we noticed was that the transmission cross member didn't fit, we had major alignment issue with it but after we took out the mount and tried to bolt in the cross member alone (without it even touching the transmission) the bolt holes didn't even line up... with the passenger side bolts lightly threaded in, this is what the driver's side looked like:
The engine was IN and the mounts were bolted up and sitting flush the trans x-member was only bolted in on one side but sitting flush against the bottom of the car.
...but even still the engine sits slightly towards the passenger's side, and it's tilted slightly with the passenger's side HIGHER than the driver's side.
Checking the bottom we noticed that there seemed to be plenty of clearance of the driver's side but the oil pan was actually rubbing on the x-member in 2 spots on the passenger's side:
Also the hood clearance isn't happening either: as you can see the hood wont even be close to clearing the throttle body, not to mention the engine is tilted with the front way higher than the rear, which I'm worried will cause issues with the drive shaft.
The alternator isn't bolted on at the moment but it sits parallel with the throttle body and where it's off to the side I would imagine there will be clearance issues with that also.
the S14 heater valve was removed before we put the engine in, but attempted to test fit showed that the engine is tilted far enough back that it passenger's side rear coil pack will collide with the heater valve making it impossible to re-install. I'd considered trying to modify the system to use an in-cabin valve like the S13 but I'd rather not do that if I don't have to, and there are plenty of people with S14s using the external valve (sikky's kit even has you leave it on the firewall when doing the swap)
The Fujii SPL guys had some suggestions for modifying the kit for better fitment but if it came down to that I would rather have them fabricate completely custom mounts and not use the kit I bought at all.
It's daft innovations "new" kit with CNC mounts, and a notched S14 cross member. the header I have are daft innovations as well (cnc bent) and I'm worried how they'll fit.
I've sent an email to rich and hopefully he'll get back to me soon so I can figure out what to do next.
We'll likely be dropping the motor out the bottom next time which I'm hoping will allow us to install the headers off of the car and make everything go much more smoothly.
If anyone has any suggestions or advice, please let me know.
the only thing that went off without a hitch were the clutch and bleeder lines.. and I spec-ed out built those myself :roll:
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users