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My 240sx Search and Build up


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#211 o The Drizzle o

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 01:03 AM

QUOTE(twistedsymphony @ May 26 2009, 04:16 PM) View Post

my craftsman torque wrench broke so we had to use an old-school torque wrench to install the clutch hardware.


take it back and use that lifetime warranty on them... or even better, invest in some snap-ons wink.gif . my dad has a real nice snap-on torque wrench... he used to be a mechanic and bought alot of snap-on since the truck would come around to the garage

Edited by o The Drizzle o, 27 June 2009 - 01:03 AM.


#212 twistedsymphony

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Posted 30 June 2009 - 02:48 PM

they wouldn't take it back... Apparently Craftsmen only has a 1 year warranty on torque wrenches.

I ended up just buying a new one. dry.gif

#213 o The Drizzle o

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Posted 06 July 2009 - 03:15 AM

any new info chief?

#214 twistedsymphony

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Posted 06 July 2009 - 01:03 PM

So for the 4th of July I called everyone I knew who I thought would be willing to help me work on my car to come over for burgers and beer and help my pull out my LS1, hammer out the tunnel and and put it back in with new mounting equipment. What better way to celebrate America than to fire up the grill and tool around with a V8 right?

I had a really good time and I was really happy with how many people came to help out, I can't tell you how much I appreciate it. Sad to say though that aside from making more room in the tunnel the day was a loss in terms of progress on the car.

After talking with Rich, showing him pictures of what was wrong with the fitment of the mounts before he said that he would send me a redesigned transmssion cross member and redesigned engine mounts, and that if the engine cross member had problems I could grind it down further myself. From Rich himself: "I can send you some modified mounts and a new transmission crossmember to correct your issues." All I ever received was a new transmission cross member.

So we pulled the motor hammered the crap out the tunnel more and put the motor back in. The new transmission cross member was exactly the same width as the old one, and couldn't be bolted up because it was mis-aligned by half the width of the bolt. Also I noticed that the Transmission X-members (both the new and old ones) were not square. I pulled off the original Nissan transmission crossmember for reference to make sure it wasn't supposed to be that way.

Here's the old one:
IPB Image
Here's the New One:
IPB Image
Here's the new one again from a different angle:
IPB Image
And Here is the original S14 Automatic Cross member for reference:
http://solid-orange....7/dtxm_org1.jpg
The transmission was litterally as high as it could go any higher and the shift box wouldn't fit in the tunnel:
IPB Image
However even at this height the Engine still had a crazy angle to it:
IPB Image
This picture taken with my cell from just inside the shift box shows that the engine is still cocked too:
IPB Image
We ran a shop towel up and over the transmission and arond the bell housing and were able to proove that there was ample room between the transmission and the tunnel (since the towels never tore and coul be moved about freely.
After looking at tings closely there is littereally no room to make the mounts shorter since the oil pan would run into the steering rack and cross member... pulling the motor back out and measuring however I noticed that there are significant difference between my stock S14 cross member and the Daft cross member. I think maybe I got an S13 or some other cross member instead.
Original S14 Cross member:
IPB Image
Daft S14 Cross member:
IPB Image
Original S14 Cross member:
IPB Image
Daft S14 Cross Member:
IPB Image
On the Daft X-member the mount surface's angle is steeper, it bumps up much higher, and if you notice where it's welded to the main piece the inside flange is much larger on the Daft one, and the flange along the bottom sticks out on mine where it lays flat on the daft one. Unless Nissan Changed the design mid-S14 cycle this is a different X-member.

#215 o The Drizzle o

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Posted 17 July 2009 - 04:33 AM

man... this swap has been a bitch for you. any progress?

#216 twistedsymphony

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Posted 17 July 2009 - 07:35 PM

no progress on this car.

I'm giving the guy who made the kit one last chance.

he's sending me new mounts as well as a new transmission crossmember that uses some suggestions I gave him for the design.

we're going to try one last time on the 25th...

if it fails I'm sending it all back for a refund and I have a friend who's willing to weld me up a custom kit.

in the meantime I've been fixing up the convertible...

I think this week I'll try to tackle the wiring harness so it's ready to go once everything else is done.

---------

Also I traded my Cat-back for a full set of Skyline R32 GTR brakes... I figured that exhaust wasn't going to cut it anyway, and I'll need the stopping power.

I had a set of 300ZX front calipers but the GTR brakes are a little beefier.

cool thing is they have a separate E-brake assembly... but I'll need to source some R33 e-brake cables to make them work with my car.

#217 twistedsymphony

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Posted 29 July 2009 - 02:56 PM

Last Saturday, after waiting half a day for the mounts to arrive and having a little scare when they didn't arrive with the mail I texted everyone I knew to come over and help me drop the motor in for hopefully one last time.

Before putting in the motor I was super jealous of how Randall's tunnel looked and while the last time everything cleared I felt better with a little more breathing room. so we hammered out EVERYTHING forward of the pinch-weld up to the firewall and make it mostly smooth.
IPB Image

Not as Nice as Randall's job but after this photo was taken I think we hammered it smooth a little more before sanding and painting it. Much better looking than it was before.

Also before dropping in the motor I checked the transmission cross-member. Previously the cross-member was too narrow such that if one side was bolted in it wouldn't line up on the other. Also previously the cross-members were not square. This time the cross-member WAS square. it sat flush against the mounting surface and the bottom beam that held the transmission was level with the car. the mounting holes were still a hair off though. Previously the holes were off by about half a bolt width, now they were off by about a thread. We took a milling bit and widened the holes on one side just enough, and then repainted it.
IPB Image

Also previously the threaded rods that go through the mount were exceptionally long. with the rod threaded all the way into the mount it stuck out the other side of the engine cross member quite a bit. Enough such that previously we couldn't have the mounts attached to the engine when dropping it in as it wouldn't slide into the cross-member.

http://solid-orange..../07/di_mod1.jpg

Above you can see how much it stuck out after being bolted up to a cross member. I cut off 6 threads from the rod which made dropping the motor own with the mounts already attached much MUCH easier. In hindsight I probably could have cut off even MORE threads since the rod doesn't technically need to be threaded all the way into the mount... that would allow me to screw it in a little while dropping the motor in, sliding the motor into the cross-member slots, then threading the rod out a little to put the nut on.
IPB Image IPB Image

The engine now sits low and level like it should

We put some grease on the throttle body and the alternator and test fit the hood. The hood closed without issue and completely clears the throttle body. the top of the alternator bracket rubs just slightly but is nothing to be concerned about.
IPB Image IPB Image

The engine sits way lower now compared to how it did previously.
IPB Image

After fitting up the motor we tried for the headers. Drivers Side first, we hat to pull the coil packs, the alternator and the, searing column (Pro-tip: disconnect it at the bottom of the u-joint where it connects to the rack, and remove the pinch bolt completely), we also had to unbolt the master cylinder (the booster can stay where it is) and the header dropped right in no problem, with plenty of clearance around the rack and the frame rails
IPB Image

The collector does actually come up a little bit in the back and rub against the floor though, I'm not sure what I'm going to do about that, I might see if I can shift around the motor a little (you'll see why in moment) or failing that hammer the floor a little)

The passenger's side header was a bitch to get in. Again coil packs had to be removed, the starter motor had to be removed, also everything attached to the side of the fuse box had to be removed, the original S14 fuel filter and lines had to be removed and the huge bracket holding up the ABS module had to be removed too. we loosened the mount and hoisted the engine a little and the header went in after a little coaxing. Once it was in the clearance to the bell housing by where the starter goes is really tight but it clears, it also clears the floor unlike the driver's side. however it hits the engine cross member.

http://solid-orange..../07/header2.jpg
http://solid-orange..../07/header3.jpg
http://solid-orange..../07/header4.jpg

We marked it with a sharpie where it hits the cross-member. I'd like to see if I can shift the passenger's side UP slightly and the driver's side down slightly, that might fix this collision issue, as well as the floor board header collision on the drivers side, and clear up a tiny bit of space where the alternator bracket rubs the hood. Failing that I'm going to either hammer or slightly grind the top of the engine cross-member.
A note about the fitment of stuff, the ABS bracket will have to have the long arm that bolts to the frame rail removed completely, this shouldn't effect it too badly since it bolts to the chassis in three other places. Also the two brakes lines that go directly down from the module (rear brakes, and front right brake) will need to be bent back a little since they rub on the header as it is. I will take pictures of these changes when I make them.
On a whole I'm very happy with how today worked out, a few tweaks here and there but this is about what I had expected the first time I attempted this. I appreciate that Rich made the effort to make this right and send me new parts that worked and got them here when I needed them.
One last pic... I'm totally 4x4ing even with the LS1 in... and the car sat much lower with the KA.
IPB Image

Today the headers are being dropped off at the ceramic coater muhaha.gif

#218 lostboyz

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Posted 29 July 2009 - 07:01 PM

lookin good man, this is turning out to be quite the project.

#219 twistedsymphony

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 08:24 PM

DAMN I've been so busy with other crap that I've hardly had any time to work on this...

minor stuff that I DID actually get out of the way:

-headers picked up from the ceramic coater (they look friggin awesome)
-ordered sway bar spacers (stock location wont clear the oil pan)
-modified the ABS bracket to clear the passenger's side header, cleaned it up re-painted and re-installed it
-pulled the steering column all the way out of the dash, and cleaned up and repainted the engine side of it.
-Ordered a power steering restrictor from Turn One which should make the steering feel more natural after the swap (from what I've heard the OEM pump is overkill)
-working on a circuit to handle the speedo conversion

stuff unrelated to the swap:
-I thought of a way to clean up some kouki taillights that I bought (since they were faded) and it turned out AWESOME, I installed the center section and need to clean up the sides a little more before I install though
-ordered some clear headlight covers (no fluting) and some Bi-Xenon Projectors with HIDs to do a retro conversion... ended up finding some kouki fenders and some cheap JDM kouki headlights so I'm going to re-sell the covers I just bought and retro the kouki headlights instead.



#220 Liquid Oxygen

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Posted 22 August 2009 - 01:45 AM

Looks like a really good build. Nice to see yourself doing the work as well.

#221 o The Drizzle o

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Posted 20 September 2009 - 12:46 PM

update??

#222 yaazz

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Posted 29 September 2009 - 12:05 AM

After the trouble going into this build, I think the car would have mysteriously burnt by now if it were mine ph34r.gif

#223 twistedsymphony

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Posted 29 September 2009 - 04:51 PM

I've got a bunch of work done and took pictures too... I just haven't had a chance to post them up yet.

I installed the driver's side header, which entailed scrubbing the head with a wire brush and brake clean to get the old gasket bits soot and tape residue off... then I had to remove the brake master and booster, the coil packs and the alternator before hoisting up that side of the engine to get it in....

got the header mounted gasket slid in, and then torqued to spec. then re-assembled all the other crap I had to remove.

when i went to reinstall the steering column I realized the knuckle rubbed up against the 2nd runner from the front dry.gif

so I bought a milling bit for my dremel and cut it out enough to clear without rubbing (it clears by about the width of a piece of paper... it shouldn't effect the strength of the knuckle at all , if you saw how and where it was cut you'd understand.

I was still weary of how close the other parts of the header were to the steering column so I hit up an old acquaintance to make me some cross member spacers... these would drop the motor DOWN by .25" the way the headers were shaped this would make more room for the steering column... I got those installed and it did free up a little more room, not as much as I'd hoped but enough.

after that I removed the back half of the original driveshaft and took measurements for my new driveshaft.

I also designed, ordered parts for and constructed the intake... which looks awesome biggrin.gif

I installed the shift linkage, external shift boot as well as the decorative shift boot and I had a custom shift lever made up to fit the knob I wanted to use.

I also cut down the original factory fuel lines and had a hydraulics expert friend of mine mock up the fuel lines for me. we came up with a configuration to place the fuel filter/FPR under the decorative valve covers so the whole system is completely hidden. it looks awesome.

he had the lines made up and we went to install them last week but one of the fittings broke when we went to install them so he's getting that fixed right now...

I've done a few other things like mocked up the accelerator bracket and added a custom dead pedal

in the mean time I've got to finish up the wiring... and I've been designing the exhaust system.

once the wiring is done and the fuel lines are installed, I can put the other header in, re-install all the accessories and the cooling system... and I should be good to start her up cool.gif

----------------------------------

on the vert I removed the EGR system,
even wrote a tutorial for it: http://tech.240sxone...de-egr-removal/
and installed a new starter so I could take it on a club cruise

also swapped out the clutch pedal and cleaned up the automatic brake pedal to fit with the clutch pedal better.

tonight if I have time I'm swapping out the gauge cluster for a digital one and I'm going to see if I can get it aligned soon because since I swapped out the shock/springs and tension rod bushings it could probably use it so I don't f-up the tires.

#224 o The Drizzle o

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Posted 06 November 2009 - 06:08 PM

its been awhile... whats new with it?

#225 twistedsymphony

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 08:28 PM

lol... lots of progress...

it's actually easier for me to post what's LEFT to do as opposed to what has been done.

I'm 80% of the way through the wiring conversion, I'm waiting on some plug seals before I can finish it up (they should arrive this week)
I'm 95% done the Fuel lines, I need to call my buddy to see when he get over to my place and finish them up for me.

I ordered the parts I need to build the exhaust yesterday
I'm going to take some measurements again tonight and order the drive shaft.

once the wiring and fuel lines are done I'll need to put all the accessories back on the front of the motor, drop in the radiator, fill all the fluids and see if she runs biggrin.gif

once that's one I'll need to drop in the Drive shaft and have the exhaust welded up before I can drive it.

it's very very close though smile.gif




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