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New Version of Wireless Controller Board, CG


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#256 RDC

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 07:47 AM

QUOTE(hayamik @ Apr 3 2009, 03:19 AM)  

Oh hrmm, we can use the original wireless diagram. SY2 looks easy enough. Is there SY1 on this board?

Nope, if you could use the Matrix diagrams you'd have a Matrix controller.

The Sync on the CG was the Grey trace, which I've now changed to Dark Purple as it was a bit too difficult to see in the pics as Grey, also made the pics 1024 instead of 800 so they can be seen better.

If you have the Sticks and or Triggers removed and the Resistors are not installed in place of them it will cause all kinds of weird issues.

Edited by RDC, 03 April 2009 - 07:49 AM.


#257 magnus__hydra

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 09:37 AM

QUOTE(RDC @ Apr 3 2009, 01:42 AM)  

Is the LED still on the board? or have ya removed it and then tested the spots? One side is Ground, provided this is the CG version controller we're talking about here, so it should read Ground. As far as the other line goes if it's reading to ground with the LED removed then ya either have that line shorted somewhere (solder splash maybe) or the MCU is shot on that pin, nothing ya can do if that's the case.

yeah I took the led off to test it. yes the CG controller. Ground read ground and power reads ground. In fact if I take my multimeter and do a diode test. Placing the black lead on the ground pad and the red on the power pad it makes a ring. Same if I put the red at the pin point or on the trace of the power. The trace and around the power pad is clean. only solder on the pad, I am guess it would have to be the MCU. Like I said it wasn't a big problem just wanted to see it it could be fixed. Thanx again man IPB Image

#258 5Rivers79

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 02:57 PM

QUOTE(RDC @ Apr 3 2009, 04:16 AM)  

You can leave the Triggers installed, and there's no real reason to remove them at all except for space concerns or just to make it look pretty. Just solder up the new LT button's wires to the LT1 and LT2 spots, then the same for the RT button and yer done for the Triggers.

For the buttons (only the buttons, D-pad, ABXY, LB/RB, Back, Guide, Start, Sync and the stick buttons) you can have just the one connection daisy chained around to every button and then to the Ground on the controller, and any Ground spot will do, TP2 or TP22 on the back of the board are good ones to use.

The Triggers are not part of the CG setup, so wire them up with the 2 wires per button as mentioned above. They do share a common connection between just them (the LT2 and RT2 connections are the same) but it's less confusing to just wire them up with 2 wires per, but either way it's the same deal when ya get it all done, correctly that is. wink.gif


Thanks for the help, your explanaion makes it a hell of alot easier!!

Lastly, if i take the springs and the two trigger buttons out do i need to hot glue the trigger pots and the little arms so they dnt move?


#259 hayamik

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 10:24 PM

QUOTE(RDC @ Apr 3 2009, 08:23 AM)  

Nope, if you could use the Matrix diagrams you'd have a Matrix controller.

The Sync on the CG was the Grey trace, which I've now changed to Dark Purple as it was a bit too difficult to see in the pics as Grey, also made the pics 1024 instead of 800 so they can be seen better.

If you have the Sticks and or Triggers removed and the Resistors are not installed in place of them it will cause all kinds of weird issues.


Awesome. Thanks RDC, should be able to get it working now.

#260 GrooveDlaFonque

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 04:16 PM

Hi!
I'm planning on making my own arcade stick using an xbox360 controller (how original!)

If I want a PCB with a common ground AND not to bother soldering a transistor or use another trick (but juste solder 2 wires) to use the triggers my only choice is an official wired xbox pad with new PCB, am I right?

If I got it well:
-Old PCB wired pad: separate ground + "simple triggers" (no transistor of chip to use)
-Old PCB wireless pad: same thing, separate ground + "simple triggers"
-New PCB wireless pad: common ground + "tricky triggers" (need to solder chip or transistor)
-New PCB wired pad: common ground + "simple triggers" <- only choice?

Any mistake?

Thanks for your answers!

Edited by GrooveDlaFonque, 07 April 2009 - 04:31 PM.


#261 RDC

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 06:33 PM

Only the CL (newer Wired) or CG (newer Wireless) have a Common connection for all of the buttons, and only the buttons, but only the CG is Common Ground, the CL has voltage on it's Common Line.

You don't need Transistors for any of the Triggers on any of the controllers, ya just use 2 wires for each Trigger is all.

Edited by RDC, 07 April 2009 - 07:21 PM.


#262 GrooveDlaFonque

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 07:04 PM

Thanks for your answer!

A friend of mine gave me a PCB which came from the CG version but he removed the trigger's potentiometers (and of course lost them....). I will need to solder some resistance and maybe transistors to use the buttons right?



#263 RDC

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 07:40 PM

Where are you getting this Transistor stuff from? You don't need to use Transistors at all, just use 2 wires for each of the new Trigger buttons.

The only reason you'd need to use Transistors is to make the controller completely Common Ground, and there's not point in that since you can get to both contacts of the new buttons and just use 2 wires per Trigger and yer done.

#264 aj23

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 09:45 PM

I have a question, was there another matrix controller revision? I have a whole bunch, which look just like the matrix except the back doesn't have the silver part on it, and actually some of the controller boards are different shades of green (though that doesn't matter). This may be the problem that I am having with my Rapid Fire controllers.

Also, is it possible to tell if the controller is matrix or CG from just looking at the box of a brand new one?

#265 RDC

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:31 PM

That 'silver part' is just the shielding for the RF board, they did the same thing to that component on the RF (RoL) board, it's not a different version per say, just doesn't have the shielding on it, most likely cheaper to leave it off and may make signal transmission/reception better.

With the different colors of masking that's just the different places they've been made or whatever color they were using at the time to spray them, they could be Red or Blue, wouldn't change anything there.

I consider a version change something major, a change in the way it works or has a bearing on how you'd did something to the previews version that doesn't work on the newer one, those 2 things aren't major and don't have any bearing on how the controller works.

As far as I know there's no way to tell from the packaging, but if ya get them from a place that sells a lot of controllers the chances of getting a CG are better, more so for ones that come with a PnC kit and from what I understand the Red ones are all CG, though I can't confirm that.

#266 GrooveDlaFonque

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Posted 07 April 2009 - 11:29 PM

Thanks for all your answers RDC....and your patience!

#267 kingpip

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Posted 10 April 2009 - 02:04 AM

any 1 know where the power is for the led for the xyab buttons and the x button thanx

#268 5Rivers79

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Posted 11 April 2009 - 07:21 PM

Hey RDC, just about to prep my CG wireless board for the soldering to make the arcade stick. I understand its quite easy just to scrape the button contacts and solder the wires to them. However could you please tell me which contacts are the signal contacts as i dont want to scrape both the contacts for each button and direction because i will be using a common ground for all the buttons and dpad uhh.gif


#269 RDC

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Posted 11 April 2009 - 10:02 PM

QUOTE(5Rivers79 @ Apr 11 2009, 02:57 PM)  

Hey RDC, just about to prep my CG wireless board for the soldering to make the arcade stick. I understand its quite easy just to scrape the button contacts and solder the wires to them. However could you please tell me which contacts are the signal contacts as i dont want to scrape both the contacts for each button and direction because i will be using a common ground for all the buttons and dpad uhh.gif


If ya look at the pics only the Signal lines are traced out, and the trace that runs to that half of a contact is the one ya want to use, for Y it's the bottom half, B it's the top half, etc., etc.

Edited by RDC, 11 April 2009 - 10:02 PM.


#270 jimbodude

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Posted 17 April 2009 - 10:19 AM

So I followed all the diagrams, and the connections work as described - Thanks RDC. I've created a wireless joystick with this and ran into a little problem.

I'm using a perfect 360 joystick and made a voltage booster circuit for it. I have a transistor that turns on the circuit when the controller powers up. I thought that I could just highjack the sync button to the turn on the transistor, but it seems like the sync button won't source enough current to power it up. The transistor requires about 11 mA @ 2.5V (voltage from rechargeable batteries) to power up the transistor.

Anyone have an idea of a different signal source I can use for my transistor? uhh.gif

Thanks in advance

Edited by jimbodude, 17 April 2009 - 10:20 AM.





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