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New Version of Wireless Controller Board, CG


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#331 RDC

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Posted 22 December 2010 - 02:20 AM

If you have anything soldered there remove it, or if you have had anything soldered there check for shorts.

Without seeing your actual controller and knowing what all you've done to it no one is going to be able to even try and guess what's wrong with it.


#332 bubble_gum

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Posted 24 December 2010 - 11:49 AM

On this item was short (red). I removed it and it works. Thanks to everyone for your help.

IPB Image

My brother brought me a controller that has been found.Did not power on. It has in many places rusty tinge(i cleat many of that). Also uder the analogs. I do not know whether or not to remove these analogs in general. Do you think that could be flooded with water? In what situation a rusty tinge can show? Maybe the batteries were poured?

http://img716.images...zdjcie0780f.jpg

Os there any chances to let it work or should i forget about it?
Merry Christmas 4 all.

Edited by RDC, 24 December 2010 - 01:24 PM.


#333 RDC

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Posted 24 December 2010 - 07:59 PM

It's possible that controller can be salvaged, but you'll have to tear it down more and finish cleaning it up to tell what other damage there might be. Then put new Sticks and Bumper switches on it as well, that rust is just going to get worse over time. Without testing some things on it and seeing the rest of the controller I couldn't say if it was worth it or not, but it's not the worst looking controller I've ever repaired so far, so it's up to you if you'd want to invest the time and effort into trying to get that one going again.

#334 dopesun

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Posted 28 December 2010 - 09:27 PM

hey. i was wondering if i could get a helping hand in salvaging these controller boards.? i would like to get em going as a project. any help would be appreciated.

board 1

board 2

board 3

#335 RDC

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Posted 30 December 2010 - 05:58 AM

Board 1 - All 4 solder lugs are missing, but you can just bend those over to hold the Stick in place after installing it. The top row (X-Axis) of solder pads are Ground, that can be bent down and soldered to the board. The Wiper will have to be soldered to it's original trace with s bit or 30awg wire. Then the Voltage lead can be soldered to the other Voltage lead of the Y-Axis POT there with another a small piece of wire. The Y-Axis Wper pad is also messed up and will need to be soldered to it's original trace as well.

Board 2 - All 3 connections are pretty hosed. The Top one is Ground, the lead from the POT can just be bent over and soldered to the board. The Middle one is the Wiper and the Via there still looks intact, so you can wire it to that. The Bottom one is the Analog Voltage and it looks like the Via is shot as well, so you'll have to rewire it to one of the other spots on the controller, TP7 or one of the other POTs Voltage leads. You'll also want to secure the POT with a little hot glue or something, since it will only have 1 of the 3 solder joints holding it in place now.

Board 3 - It looks like all that's really bad is the Wiper of the Y-Axis and the LSC connection. The Wiper will need to be soldered to it's original trace, or follow it until you get to a Via and solder it there, but make sure the Trigger assembly is notched after doing that so it doesn't pinch the wire. The LSC connection I'd repair by running a short wire from the solder pad above the damaged one, to the top right solder joint of D16.

http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=581887


#336 dopesun

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Posted 11 January 2011 - 03:53 AM

QUOTE(RDC @ Dec 29 2010, 11:58 PM) View Post

Board 1 - All 4 solder lugs are missing, but you can just bend those over to hold the Stick in place after installing it. The top row (X-Axis) of solder pads are Ground, that can be bent down and soldered to the board. The Wiper will have to be soldered to it's original trace with s bit or 30awg wire. Then the Voltage lead can be soldered to the other Voltage lead of the Y-Axis POT there with another a small piece of wire. The Y-Axis Wper pad is also messed up and will need to be soldered to it's original trace as well.

Board 2 - All 3 connections are pretty hosed. The Top one is Ground, the lead from the POT can just be bent over and soldered to the board. The Middle one is the Wiper and the Via there still looks intact, so you can wire it to that. The Bottom one is the Analog Voltage and it looks like the Via is shot as well, so you'll have to rewire it to one of the other spots on the controller, TP7 or one of the other POTs Voltage leads. You'll also want to secure the POT with a little hot glue or something, since it will only have 1 of the 3 solder joints holding it in place now.

Board 3 - It looks like all that's really bad is the Wiper of the Y-Axis and the LSC connection. The Wiper will need to be soldered to it's original trace, or follow it until you get to a Via and solder it there, but make sure the Trigger assembly is notched after doing that so it doesn't pinch the wire. The LSC connection I'd repair by running a short wire from the solder pad above the damaged one, to the top right solder joint of D16.

http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=581887


Het RDC thanks alot. i will def try that...

#337 M Bison

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Posted 01 February 2011 - 07:55 PM

Ok, so I have my arcade stick built and all of the buttons are working great except for the LT and RT buttons. I have the resistor in and wired my buttons to the middle pin, but they never register when using the buttons. I believe I saw earlier in the thread that the ground for the triggers needs to be different due to the fact that they are analog switches. Can you let me know what I need to do?

#338 mchungry

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Posted 01 March 2011 - 03:58 AM

does anyone have the locations of the diodes for the new cg board mapped out

#339 dopesun

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 06:38 AM

QUOTE(RDC @ Dec 29 2010, 11:58 PM) View Post

Board 1 - All 4 solder lugs are missing, but you can just bend those over to hold the Stick in place after installing it. The top row (X-Axis) of solder pads are Ground, that can be bent down and soldered to the board. The Wiper will have to be soldered to it's original trace with s bit or 30awg wire. Then the Voltage lead can be soldered to the other Voltage lead of the Y-Axis POT there with another a small piece of wire. The Y-Axis Wper pad is also messed up and will need to be soldered to it's original trace as well.


hey dude got this working then all of a sudden when i turn the controller on it blinks twice and then shuts off. WTF?

Edited by dopesun, 10 March 2011 - 06:38 AM.


#340 RDC

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 09:10 PM

QUOTE(M Bison @ Feb 1 2011, 12:55 PM) View Post
Ok, so I have my arcade stick built and all of the buttons are working great except for the LT and RT buttons. I have the resistor in and wired my buttons to the middle pin, but they never register when using the buttons. I believe I saw earlier in the thread that the ground for the triggers needs to be different due to the fact that they are analog switches. Can you let me know what I need to do?

The Triggers are Analog, not part of the Common Ground layout that the buttons use. The common connection for the Triggers is TP8, which is the Analog voltage line. So you'd wire LT1 and RT1 to your new buttons, then TP8 to the other side of both of them.


QUOTE(mchungry @ Feb 28 2011, 08:58 PM) View Post
does anyone have the locations of the diodes for the new cg board mapped out

The CG and CG2 boards do not have Diodes, only the Matrix versions have those.


QUOTE(dopesun @ Mar 9 2011, 11:38 PM) View Post

hey dude got this working then all of a sudden when i turn the controller on it blinks twice and then shuts off. WTF?

Try new batteries first, or a fully charged one if you're using PnC packs.


#341 nazar

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Posted 01 July 2011 - 09:11 AM

Hello everyone. I need your help. what parameters has this capacitor C69(he is near C3)? Or gamepad would work without this one?
p.s. sorry for my english.
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Edited by nazar, 01 July 2011 - 09:15 AM.


#342 RDC

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Posted 01 July 2011 - 02:00 PM

It will work fine without it.

#343 nazar

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Posted 01 July 2011 - 03:46 PM

thank you very much. i'll try it on next week and let you know the result.
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#344 ProCision

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Posted 26 February 2012 - 11:23 PM

first thing, RDC thanks for all the knowledge you gave me. I've read nearly every page in this topic and searched around the interwebs and.......

I have a CG board that has R/F on the right trigger and it works perfect. I want to take that same mod and move it to the A button. Can I just cut the trace and wire the mod in the middle and get the same effect? If not what am I going to have to do to get rapid fire on the A button? I also removed the X axis on the left stick and that works perfect.

#345 RDC

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Posted 27 February 2012 - 08:11 AM

Welcome.

I've no idea what R/F setup is in your controller. Most of those things now are not just simple hi/lo pulsing outputs, they read the Trigger line and know if you've pulled it or not and then respond accordingly. The Triggers and buttons don't work anything alike either, so those R/F setups can not be swapped over to a button line with the same results.

Making a R/F button on the CG or CG2 controller is pretty much the same thing as blinking an LED. You just need to have something that will pulse a Lo output at whatever speed you want is all. If you don't want to get all fancy, you can code up some PIC to just hammer an output pin over and over, or a 555 setup, and stick some new button between it and the A button line.

The same method used on the Trigger where the pulling of the Trigger is what actives the R/F could probably be done with a button, but I wouldn't recommend it because of the differences. The more proper way to do that on a button line would be to have the PIC in between the A button and the button line, so the original A button becomes an input for the PIC. That way it can be coded up to act normal when off, so pressing the A button would output the same Lo to the button line acting like a feed thru, the when it's on it would be setup for the R/F of the A button line when the button was pressed.





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