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New Version of Wireless Controller Board, CG


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#61 RDC

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 04:16 AM

It works too. Nice one there VERTIGONIX, that's actually so ingeniously simple that I'm a little miffed I didn't think of it. wink.gif The Rapid Fire part of it is what I mean, just tried it on a board here. It wouldn't be too difficult to add in a couple of NPN Transistors and make it work on the Matrix style board also using the same setup, just killing the ground to those POTs and switching it to the pulses from the Transistors, since that board is just backwards from this one as far as the Triggers go.

The schematic isn't misleading per say, though it's not 3v on the Analog lines, it's 1.5v. You have it written there to cut the V+, but it's just not drawn out how I'd have done it to show that the voltage to the POT was actually cut. It's just the way that have have the LT/RT PIN 1, 2, and 3 labeled that make it look wrong, since Pin 1 is the Wiper and obviously goes somewhere, then Pin 3 is ground and should have just been drawn with the Ground symbol. It's right, just way too much info on there is all really. wink.gif

The Wiper line on the CG version board sits around 0.08v at rest and 1.1v fully pulled, with the 50% mark being around 0.55v, but trust me when I say that varies from controller to controller. Nothing about the analog lines in these things is exactly the same from one to the next measuring the Wiper lines, so the 0.2v and 1.5v reading you're getting are within the tolerance for it to work. 0v and 1.5v are really the Min. and Max, since one side of the POT is ground and the other is 1.5v for the Analog lines, and for the purposes of the Rapid Fire setup on this controller that 1.5v can be used for the 'on' or fire state of the Trigger.



#62 VERTIGONIX

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 03:01 AM

biggrin.gif Wow! That was fast! Thanks for checking it out. I have my board almost complete.


http://oxygenfo.star...es/100_2871.JPG

I am just going to try out the rapid fire for now and work on the jump stuff later. I'll put it in my controller tonight and check it out. I have worked with a lot of timer circuits so I know what they can do. It's just how is the controller going to react to the timer.

Are you going to try to bread board the jump/crouch at all? That would be fun to test out!

Thanks!

Edited by RDC, 24 April 2008 - 10:16 AM.


#63 RDC

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 12:16 PM

I may later on, no plans to do that part of it now though since I don't use it at all in game but once in a blue moon and even then if I happen to think about it.

I don't see a POT on yer board there, though ya did say it wasn't complete yet. If ya plan on leaving it out to make it smaller you'll hate it, since it varies from game to game what the max speed ya can get away with is and if it's too fast it'll end up shooting slower than normal as well, so having a decent range to adjust it over is really a must.


Changed yer pic to a link also, try and keep them around 800 x 600 or so, not everyone has a 40" monitor. wink.gif

#64 VERTIGONIX

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 06:09 PM

Thanks for changing it to a link! I told you I was a newb at this.

The pot is mounted thru the other side. I used a 10uF cap with a 10K fixed resistor and a 250K pot. My time range is 11ms to 2.5s. Should be decent!

Yeah, I hear you about the jump/crouch thing. I don't use it much if at all in the game (Halo3). But if I do want to use it, or start using it, it would be nice not to have to think about it and just have it do it all the time. Think of all the spots you could find just by pressing the button and doing the combo!

Thanks!


#65 dcrvx2k

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Posted 28 April 2008 - 02:54 AM

RDC, I am using the CG controller to make an arcade stick mod. Do I need to leave the analog thumb sticks in? There is not much space so I want to pull them out. I am not sure if the controller will frag if the sticks are missing.

Thanks.

#66 RDC

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Posted 28 April 2008 - 06:22 AM

QUOTE(dcrvx2k @ Apr 27 2008, 10:30 PM) View Post

RDC, I am using the CG controller to make an arcade stick mod. Do I need to leave the analog thumb sticks in? There is not much space so I want to pull them out. I am not sure if the controller will frag if the sticks are missing.

Thanks.

You can remove them, but ya need to install Resistors in their place so the Wiper line isn't left floating, same with the Triggers if ya want to remove them as well.



#67 biggmacattack

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Posted 02 May 2008 - 08:54 PM

Hi RDC,

I've read through the posts and have not seen this question yet.

Do you, or anyone else understand how the pots on the analog thumbsticks work? To be specific, I'm working on a new Picaxe project and want to see if I can simulate pushing the upper left thumbstick first to the left and then to the right. (giving it a left/right wiggle if you will)

The Pot doesn't look much different than the one for the trigger and to activate the triggers you apply a high to the center post on that pot. So I understand that much.

But how does the Pot for the thumbstick interpert left from right?

I would understand if it had two outputs but as far as I can tell one is power, another ground and the last is the wiper.

Help!!!!????? blink.gif


#68 RDC

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Posted 04 May 2008 - 02:23 PM

@ biggmacattack - The difference you're not seeing there (ironically) is they sit in the center and can move in either direction, unlike the Triggers POT which is pretty much all the way to one side (low) and when the Trigger is pulled moves to the other (high) side. Think of it like the 'L/R Balance' knob on a stereo, where you can send the sound either to the left speaker or to the right. With the Stick, since it is held in the center, ya move it one way an it goes higher, move it the other way and it goes lower. Just like the Triggers one side of the POT is Ground, the other side is voltage, but with the Sticks since they sit 'centered' the Wiper has around 0.75v or so on it and swings from 1.2v (left) to 0.2v (right) moving it the maximum left/right distance the stick can move.

If ya set your PICAXE up to output the same voltage that's on the Wiper line as your controller (measure this first since it varies slightly from controller to controller and could cause a drift issue if not set right) then just have it so it switches between low/high when ya press whatever new button and you'll have your left/right wiggle you're after. You can have it switch between Ground and 1.5v if ya want also, those are the max for the Stick and will also give ya the full left/right movement of the Stick.

#69 biggmacattack

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Posted 04 May 2008 - 08:30 PM

QUOTE(RDC @ May 4 2008, 02:59 PM) View Post


If ya set your PICAXE up to output the same voltage that's on the Wiper line as your controller (measure this first since it varies slightly from controller to controller and could cause a drift issue if not set right) then just have it so it switches between low/high when ya press whatever new button and you'll have your left/right wiggle you're after. You can have it switch between Ground and 1.5v if ya want also, those are the max for the Stick and will also give ya the full left/right movement of the Stick.


Thanks RDC!

Got it! The wiper going from high to low....... yup that would explain why I didn't understand.

Some of the pins on the picaxe can be set tri-state, so I'll just push the pin hooked up to the wiper high impedence when not in use, that should (I stress should) allow the wiper to return to its original voltage and recenter the stick. From there the simplest thing I can see is what you suggested and just have the pin its hooked up to on the chip go from high to low for the corresponding left, right movements.

I'm also going to throw a 1k in series with the wiper and picaxe just to be safe, same as I did with the triggers.



#70 Son of None

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Posted 12 May 2008 - 09:04 AM

Hey RDC, would you happen to have any insight or an answer to this threads question. Any insight would be very helpful.

thanks

http://forums.xbox-s...p;#entry4273399

#71 halaszj

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Posted 27 May 2008 - 03:34 AM

I am so confused, i have an old controller that this mod worked on.

I have 2 new controller that I want to mod but using that mod does not work, i have read several articles from RDC but I am totally confused.

I looked at this drawing, but not the mod does nothing, the switch wont even fire.

Can anyone tell me where to hook up the transister, and what is RT1, 2, and 3? I know that they are the lil solder points on the right side, but in what order are they from top to bottom?

1
2
3
??

Any help would be appreciated.

#72 RDC

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Posted 27 May 2008 - 04:35 AM

If you have the newer CG version Wireless board then you'll have to build the circuit like in the drawing, not just look at it. wink.gif

The Triggers on the CG board go high instead of low, that means they have voltage applied to them instead of ground to fire, they work backwards form the older version controller and from all of the other 360 controllers.

The RT1, 2 and 3 spots are in the same order as the older version board.

RT2 - Voltage (top)
RT1 - Wiper
RT3 - Ground

If you're only doing one Trigger you can just leave out the whole Transistor and Diodes mess (T1, T2, D1, R4 and R5) and just go right from the push switch to LT1 or RT1 spot and you'll be done as well.

#73 halaszj

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Posted 28 May 2008 - 12:10 AM

So will this work?

IPB Image

#74 RDC

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Posted 28 May 2008 - 01:14 AM

Only, and only on the newer CG version Wireless board will that work, but yes that's all ya need. I'd also install a 100ohm or so Resistor in series before ya hit the RT1 spot, either before or after the PB1 switch just to be safe.

#75 halaszj

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Posted 28 May 2008 - 01:28 AM

Awesome, Ill give this a shot tonight, I can use the same power spot as on the old mod correct? and for ground use tp2 on the bottom?




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