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Wireless 360duke Wip


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#1 RDC

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Posted 07 December 2007 - 02:48 AM

First off, yes I know Ben Heckendorn did this awhile back, and before that I had at it with a Wired controller to see what kind of 'fun' it would be. On that one I conformed the board in the Duke to the 'Matrix' style setup for the Wired controller and is sukked, a lot, not to mention having to hack the board in two to make it fit. With this one I was able to keep the Common Ground setup because of the new version of Wireless controller. So in short, this is nothing really new, just my take on the Wireless version of it is all and something I would have done instead of the Wired one, but the way the matrix style Wireless board is laid out makes it just about impossible to do this way. If ya have to ask why, the simple answer is because I can, I like the challenge of it. If you do ask why it's because you can't and have nothing better to gripe about right now apparently, just play on whatever controller you like and don't bother posting and we'll leave it at that. Constructive criticism is fine and much appreciated to boot, but if yer gonna hate on it have a good reason.

I did an arcade stick awhile back that was Wireless, and it just didn't seem right to use some other battery pack when that would make any wireless accessories ya had useless, so I made it use the PnC cable as well as the battery packs and headset jack, and it's my intention to do the same with this thing so it's an actual pretty full blown Wireless 360 Duke controller.

This is still an ongoing thing, so it's in a pretty rough state right now. But is pretty much fully functional except for the White/Black (LB/RB) buttons (only because I haven't connected them yet) and the Sync, Guide buttons (still deciding where/how I wanna install them) as well as the 'Ring of Light' LEDs. Then the Headset connector (debating adding it or not) and then the PnC connector (which will be added somewhere) but the ABXY, Sticks and stick buttons, Triggers, D-pad, Start and Back all are connected and working with the controller together, messed around in GRAW with it some today to test al the analog functions, since that game is just picky.


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Honestly the worst part of it all is hacking and then rebuilding the 360 Wireless board, this is one of the newer CG version ones, even I wouldn't try this with the older matrix version which is why I never did this earlier. If ya can do that part of it then the rest of it's a mess and a half, but easy by comparison.

No buttons have been replaced, it uses the original board from the Duke (stripped of all part of course) so it 'feels' like a Duke does, as far as all of the button pressing goes. It's a tad heavier with the battery pack in the belly, but if ya can hold the thing in the first place it's not that bad and pretty well balanced.

Still not sure how/where the PnC connector will go, up front like the original controller is most likely. I may change the battery pack to a black one, just didn't want to hack up a black shell until I was sure this would fly.

This is how the 'Ring of Light' is now, thanks to a pair of damaged Wireless Headsets I picked up. The one I robbed the diffuser from was water damaged and then some, other one just had a blow fuse, which also came from the water damaged one. Yeah most of that info was extraneous, but who else was I gonna tell it too?

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Edited by RDC, 08 February 2008 - 02:51 PM.


#2 MickRaider

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Posted 07 December 2007 - 03:36 AM

That's really impressive RDC. It takes some serious skill to pull something like that off even if it seems easy smile.gif

#3 commandersafi

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Posted 07 December 2007 - 05:10 AM

Good job RDC....I wish i had enough talent to pull that one off smile.gif

#4 Pfeifer30

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Posted 07 December 2007 - 05:16 AM

Looks nice. Good job RDC. You should paint it like the baige/white 360 colour.


#5 Heet

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Posted 07 December 2007 - 05:24 AM

That IS friggin cool man. Good job on getting the player numbers lookin good too. I can see that being easy to screw up.

Where is the rol? In the jewel?


Nice job. You bondoing the battery pack?

#6 RDC

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Posted 07 December 2007 - 05:33 AM

Thanks all.

I've been messing with doing a PS360 controller like this also, so the buttons and 'feel' of the 360 controller stay the same, stopped work on it once I saw it was doable, but that's a whole other nightmare story.

I considered painting it, but just don't care at all for how the controller feels after that, and I'd really like to do one up that looked as close to a 360 controller as possible, big ole silver Guide button and all in the middle with the 4 quadrants for the Ring of Light. But painting isn't in my list of skillz and the only one of it's kind controller I sent off (Sinister) to be done was done wrong and piss poorly to boot, so I'm not having anything else done unless I see first hand the persons work, and I don't mean just good pics, I mean hands on first hand. It really sux hard to put all this work into something and have it tanked by the paint job, and since I know I couldn't do it justice it'll be like this for awhile more than likely.

The player numbering is the RoL now, it's the same as the Wireless headsets are, the LEDs will be behind that. I'll probably change the battery pack over to a black one so it matches more, then I'm not sure about filling in the 'gaps' and such around it just yet, since I wanna stay away from a paint job on it for the most part.

If I could write code for PIC or MCU I'd do some really wild stuff, like it wouldn't be much more of a stretch from how this is done here now to having it still be able to work on the XBOX by leaving the Duke board intact and just having a switching board (albeit a fairly complex one) between them, or an almost fully programmable Wireless controller to move whatever button to whatever other button on the controller. Those sort of things are much easier to do on this new CG Wireless board, though it does make for the soldering work on it a little more difficult in places because of the way it's laid out. But that kinda code writing stuff escapes me, so I just bend the hardware to make it work for me in most cases.

Doing this Wireless a few months ago I wouldn't even dream of trying, not with the old style Wireless board, I looked into it and it was just awful, no way to hack that thing up without having a nightmare and then some to try and put back together in a smaller package, or having to do it like Ben Heck did and loose the original board and replace all of the buttons. This board 'trimmed down' to a pretty good size and since it's common ground as well adapting it to the Dukes boards button contacts wasn't really hard at all, and it gets to keep the same 'feel' as it had before, bit of a stickler for that I am. Not knocking on Ben Hecks controller at all, but I couldn't use that thing if I had to because of the buttons, tact switches are alright for addons, but I couldn't handle them as the only ones to use.

Best advice I could give anyone looking into trying something like this is to just take your time with it, more so before ya even start it. I didn't just toss this together in a couple hours, it was a couple of days though which is still right impressive, but I usually spend who knows how long thinking about this and that and planning what will/should go where before I even lay the Dremel or Soldering Iron to anything, that way I can resolve problems long before I get half into it and find I'm forked, but have a nice hacked up controller that isn't gonna do anyone any good. wink.gif

#7 RDC

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Posted 07 December 2007 - 08:43 AM

Here's a short video of the Line of Light, nothing thrilling and if ya own a Wireless headset you've seen it before, but here it is in the Duke. wink.gif

Video

#8 REDMODS

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Posted 07 December 2007 - 04:48 PM

where you puttin the sync button? and how come there's no love for the S I thought the duke was too big n the 360 controller was too small, but the S was perfect IMO, nuce work man i'd suggest you only bondo n paint the bottom and grab and elite PnC kit or just dye a white one either way I hope you dont get fucked on paint again.

PS a giant guide/ROL would be awesome, and print out an image of he guide for the button.

Edited by REDMODS, 07 December 2007 - 04:49 PM.


#9 RDC

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Posted 07 December 2007 - 06:15 PM

No ones hating on the S, I've even messed around with stuffing a 360 board in it, the D-pad and ABXY buttons all line up just right, so it's not that big a stretch to make it work in that shell either really.

No idea where I'm going to mount the Sync and Guide buttons, thinking of installing an Off button too, just to eliminate having to pop the battery out when I just want the controller off. Going thru it the dashboard way just takes too long and is something M$ could have built into the controller anyway. That thing will definitely have to go where it can't accidentally be hit, same with the Sync button, but on the Duke there's room to spare for putting something somewhere ya can't reach it easily. wink.gif Probably up fron like it is on the Wireless 360 controller.

I was thinking of putting an actual Guide button from a 360 controller in it, but that was to go where I have the Line of Light now, so that spot is no longer an option.

Edited by RDC, 07 December 2007 - 06:27 PM.


#10 RDC

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Posted 08 December 2007 - 08:11 AM

Here's the PnC attached (yes it's removable, same as any 360 wireless controller) just showing it in place since the gaping hole behind there and how the PnC connector are mounted right now isn't much to look at at the moment. I figure the Sync button can go here as well, it's a good a place as any and out of the way for any accidental pressing of it in game. The other button will most likely be for Guide right now, still not sure how I want to go about that part of it, so up there out of the way is fine for it right now, plus tearing up the dome isn't something I feel like getting into right now. Next one I do I'll try something else on for the LEDs and Guide/Dome, I consider this one a prototype for the most part anyway, just getting all the crap ironed out even though it's fully functional in the state it is now. Only thing really missing is the Headset jack, and honestly I'm not that keen on installing it anyway.


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Here's another short video, this one of what the LEDs look like when the battery is low.

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Here's a shot of it connected up and charging a PnC battery pack. Playing Halo on the 360 with this thing is a rush of nostalgia and a little weird to boot, since it both is and isn't quite right, and going back to a Wireless 360 controller after messing with this thing awhile is wild. I may lay into it later on with the Bondo, Glazing Putty and Plastic Welder, but right now it's pretty much done and works, that's just gonna get it to a point where I'll have to paint something and since that's not my strong suit I'm content to leave it like it is for now.

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#11 killer skittle

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Posted 18 July 2009 - 04:44 PM

For starters great work! I have a couple of questions as im doing this i have been trying to figure out how small i can cut down the WIRELESS cg board...if you could help me with that little part that would be awesome! Another question is how can i turn the wireless board into a wired one, i have a play n charge kit i just tore open? This is a pretty unique project ill post MY progress...got some pretty neat things to show you at the scene!
Peace,
Skittles!

ohhh and before i forget i take it that the xbox 1 controller mobo is common ground? that would save me from running all the ground wires!
THX rdc for your help!

Edited by killer skittle, 18 July 2009 - 04:49 PM.


#12 RDC

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Posted 18 July 2009 - 05:49 PM

QUOTE(killer skittle @ Jul 18 2009, 11:44 AM) View Post
For starters great work! I have a couple of questions as im doing this i have been trying to figure out how small i can cut down the WIRELESS cg board...if you could help me with that little part that would be awesome! Another question is how can i turn the wireless board into a wired one, i have a play n charge kit i just tore open? This is a pretty unique project ill post MY progress...got some pretty neat things to show you at the scene!
Peace,
Skittles!

ohhh and before i forget i take it that the xbox 1 controller mobo is common ground? that would save me from running all the ground wires!
THX rdc for your help!

That whole turning a Wireless controller into a Wired one has to be in the top 5 most ignoramus things I've heard, and you're not the first person that's brought it up on the forums here, but the answer is the still the same, you can't. Why people want to do something that already exists is beyond me, there are already 2 versions of the 360 controller that are wired, and a few 3rd party ones, so if ya want to go wired, go wired. If it's the simple ease of using a common ground controller some 3rd party ones are, or just something with a common connection for the buttons the CL will do, if it's more complex and becomes an isolation issue where it has to be used in tandem with another type of controller (a 360 and PS3 Arcade Stick for example) then use 4066 ICs, and going that route you can use any combination of controller and have no interference between them.

You can see in the 5th pic how small the board is cut down, that however is just the smallest it can be cut without having to rebuild a ton of the thing, and even at that size it still has too. You could cut and fold it in half, but spending a week rewiring it, and way more time than that tracing it all out before cutting, just isn't practical, but you can technically cut it down as small as you want, but the smaller you go with it the rebuilding so it works again increases exponentially.

The Duke's controller board is CG, but you'll find the sticks VCC/GND to be reversed and that needs to be redone as well as the Triggers need work and the ABXY, Blk & Wht buttons are Analog on the Duke (S-controller too) and that needs to be tinkered with as well. Good luck with it, looking forward to seeing how it turns out.



Edited by RDC, 31 August 2011 - 07:30 PM.


#13 killer skittle

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Posted 19 July 2009 - 01:15 AM

so from what the pic looks like i should be able to cut along the red lines and be safe?
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#14 RDC

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Posted 19 July 2009 - 01:28 AM

QUOTE(killer skittle @ Jul 18 2009, 08:15 PM) View Post
so from what the pic looks like i should be able to cut along the red lines and be safe?


If you cut the board along those lines you'll have a real mess, that pic is flipped over (mirror image) not rotated.

It all depends on what your definition of 'safe' is, the board still has to be rebuilt even cutting it down that little bit that I did. If you want to be able to cut it down and not have to do any work there's not much you can trim off of it and the bits ya can aren't going to make it small enough to fit in the Duke.


#15 killer skittle

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Posted 19 July 2009 - 01:48 AM

i will cut it down to your size that you did...you just have to help me a little on the trace rebuilding..my soldering is an art lol...i can do anything smile.gif




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