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Help Me Diagnose A Clicking


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#1 lordvader129

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Posted 30 March 2008 - 01:32 AM

ok, ive had this clicking sound coming form the engine for about 5 days now, ive taken it in 3 times to 2 different mechanics and each time the sound stops right before i get there and comes back about an hour or so after i leave, it doesnt matter how much or how little i drive the car before going or after picking it up (IE its not going away when the car warms up)

it sounds to me like its low on oil, but its not, and the last time i had it at the shop i had them change the oil and filter and flush a quart a two through the engine, but the clicking came back after i got home

i made a video, please tell me you hear this and im not completely insane and just imagining it
http://xbehome.com/x...ne/clicking.wmv

Edited by lordvader129, 30 March 2008 - 02:52 AM.


#2 StrictPuppet

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Posted 30 March 2008 - 03:22 AM

A couple things come to mind..

The 4.6 is quite prone to sludging in the oil, oil flushing usually doesnt help much.
Its hard to tell from your video, but does the noise seem to be high and on the right(passenger side)? If it is, there is a oil restrictor inserted into an oil gallery under the rear most cam cap. This restrictor can very easily become plugged with a small bit of sludge debris, thus blocking all oil flow to the right head. The lifters then lose their prime and collapse causing excessive clearance and noise.
If the noise seems to be mainly from the front area, then there is likely a problem with the timing chains, and hydralic tensioners. Same fault, debris in the small orifices(sounds like a good name for a sick movie).
If it seems to be all around, up near both valve covers and in the front timing chain area, then the oil pump pickup screen may be blocked with sludge.
I'm sure you see the theme here...

Short term fix, pull right valve cover and cam cap, replace the restrictor, drop the oil pan, replace the pickup tube.
Long term fix, complete teardown/rebuild, change the oil frequently-never exceed 2000 miles between oil changes.

Or....sell it and buy beer

#3 raff18

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Posted 31 March 2008 - 02:15 AM

sounds like to me like a its some where in the cams dude thats not a good sound i wouldent drive it till i get it to the shop and take this vid to them drive it much longer and its a goner for sure
have u reved it to red line lately ???? 4.6 dont like it

#4 twistedsymphony

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Posted 31 March 2008 - 05:28 PM

how many miles are on the car?

Edited by twistedsymphony, 31 March 2008 - 05:33 PM.


#5 lordvader129

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Posted 31 March 2008 - 10:06 PM

well i made the video saturday when it was particularly loud, sunday it was much quieter, almost inaudible, and today its gone entirely, although i wont be surprised if its back when i go home from work tonight

ill check out the various places oil can clog either tomorrow or wednesday, unfortunately this is my daily driver so not driving it or a teardown/rebuild isnt really an option at the moment, i might be able to in the summer (not that id have a clue what im doing, ive only ever fixed parts i can see, lol)

BTW its got 145,000 miles, so its a bit of an old timer

#6 xess

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Posted 31 March 2008 - 11:24 PM

Sounds like the lifters as strictpuppet said, but I have seen that the big ends can be worn or even loose and the noise is vibrating through to the top side (tappet noises are always decieving ph34r.gif ). If your looking to keep the car for a while longer yet with that mileage, I would try and limit the use until you can get the engine overhauled.
I had an Astra SRi making a similar noise and decided to leave it, then one day the conrod made an appearance through the engine block! biggrin.gif

Edited by xess, 31 March 2008 - 11:36 PM.


#7 raff18

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Posted 02 April 2008 - 03:04 AM

hummm u might be able to do the timeing chains ur self if your willing to give it a try look for a hynes manual for that car they cost about 20 bucks and in the book they have a trouble shooting guide to all kinds of things also it will walk u through the repair and a rebuild too the rebuild shouldent take to long you would only be with out the car a day or two if u took it to a good shop or u can get an engine at the reckersand just re and re the motor but while its not in the car yet u can do some performance modds to it then just re and re it and your off to the races

#8 lordvader129

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Posted 02 April 2008 - 05:39 AM

i have a haynes manual (somewhere) the real trouble is the ability to do a whole lot myself, the money to pay someoen else to do it, and the time for either, lol

#9 StrictPuppet

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Posted 02 April 2008 - 05:50 AM

You could always enter it into a demolition derby.....

jester.gif

#10 HOUSECAT

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Posted 02 April 2008 - 08:22 AM

Your engine is about to blow.

No joke.

Have fun!! laugh.gif

I know absolutely nothing about cars...but my moms car had the same exact problem and the Mechanic told us clicking sound is first sign your engine is about to blow up. Literally blow up so don't drive it. Until you get it fixed.

#11 hamwbone

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Posted 02 April 2008 - 11:39 AM

you mom needs a new mechanic housecat tongue.gif heheh

you might also try throwing some of this in there per the instructions, you can get it at any parts house

http://www.lucasoil....p...=2&loc=show

have checked to see if its the A/C clutch thats trashed? if you find it to be that alot of cars have an option to use a bypass belt made for that vehicle with out A/C

#12 lordvader129

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Posted 05 April 2008 - 06:46 AM

the sound has become less percussive, not sure if thats good or bad

i have 4 days off work now, so i figure 1 day to take things apart, 2 days i realize i have no clue what im doing, and 1 left to find professional help biggrin.gif

Edited by lordvader129, 05 April 2008 - 06:46 AM.


#13 twistedsymphony

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Posted 09 April 2008 - 04:44 PM

QUOTE(HOUSECAT @ Apr 2 2008, 03:58 AM) View Post

I know absolutely nothing about cars...but my moms car had the same exact problem and the Mechanic told us clicking sound is first sign your engine is about to blow up. Literally blow up so don't drive it. Until you get it fixed.


Think about it logically...

a clicking or tapping sound occurs when two hard part collide with each other.

and engine is designed so that no such collisions should occur, lots of things rub, but nothing collides

this mean that any clicking or tapping is caused by one of two things

1. a stuck component that due to build up in the engine doesn't move as smoothly as it should and separates from the near by components that it should have constant pressure on, like stuck lifters or valves

2. a warn out component that due to slack in the system (like a timing chain) is causing things to move out of sync with the rest of the system and causes components that normally avoid each other to start colliding (like a valve hitting the top of a piston)


Honestly.. the first thing you should do is any back maintenance... if the timing chain has never been replaced, start there and be sure to do it right... I'm not sure about your car but that might mean doing the water pump too.

Do a full flush of all fluids and if that doesn't work... well then you'll probably need a rebuild.

Engine's don't just "blow up" but when you start banging metal together at high speed heat and pressure you'll cause damage that can't be fixed without replacing the part, and you can't replace internal engine parts without tearing apart the engine, which is always expensive.

If it goes unchecked it's only going to get worse and will eventually reach a point where the collision is so forceful that something breaks and the engine will die completely. Sometimes it's a big enough collision to actually punch the broken part out of the engine right through the metal covers/block, other times the engine will lock up solid and it will be as if you slammed in your brakes.

Edited by twistedsymphony, 09 April 2008 - 04:49 PM.


#14 hardcandy

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Posted 09 April 2008 - 07:36 PM

The best thing you could do would be to have a mechanic adjust the valves if they are adjustable. Some of the new cars are not adjustable. To me it sounds as if a rocker arm and valve rod have gotten a little too far apart. This could be due to the hydraulic lifter being fouled and not doing its job. In which case the lifter will have to be replaced if it cannot be cleaned.
You can make the noise go away by using a valve lifter cleaning lubricant, which muffles the sound but does not correct the mechanical error.

#15 lordvader129

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Posted 17 May 2008 - 05:33 AM

well the update on this is...there is no update yet, ive been shopping around for newer PI heads to swap in but i have some questions, the mustang forum is having SQL issues so ill post them here, lol

right now im looking at these http://cgi.ebay.com/...sspagenameZWDVW off an 04 explorer, i know they dont have the same cams so they wont make as much power as PI mustang heads, but it comes with valve covers and intake manifold, i need, so the question is, would these bolt on? im thinking they should, would i be able to put new cams in later, if i decide i want some more power? and would any of this require retuning the computer? because if it does ill probably just get some stock 98 heads with less miles, lol




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