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Tutorial: Fix E74 / No Video Errors


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#16 Wilhelm_I

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Posted 08 April 2008 - 08:07 PM

QUOTE(towerblocks @ Apr 8 2008, 06:16 PM) View Post

Nice tutorial, Anyone know where to get a ANA chip heatsink from?

I used these they are perfect for the whole mainboard...
There are 8 in each pack.
I put one on each RAM block and one on the southbridge and combined 4 of them to "build" a bigger heatsink that perfectly covers the ana-chip
They are cheap and work very well.
I bought my copper heatsinks for 2.90€ which is approx 5 US$ aluminium costs a bit less
Here is the link http://www.thermalta...-C002526BGA.htm

#17 [AD]

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Posted 09 April 2008 - 12:00 AM

Followed this tonight and it worked a treat biggrin.gif

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#18 jimwross

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Posted 09 April 2008 - 02:15 AM

QUOTE
' date='Apr 8 2008, 06:36 PM' post='4253693']
Followed this tonight and it worked a treat biggrin.gif

-=AD=-


Glad to hear it. When I initially tried to find info on how to fix the e74, there was little to nothing to go off of.

#19 Boobers

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Posted 09 April 2008 - 12:50 PM

Just to confirm one point.

You use the Heat Gun on the motherboard with the Heat Sinks ON??? or OFF???

B

#20 Wilhelm_I

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Posted 09 April 2008 - 01:37 PM

QUOTE(Boobers @ Apr 9 2008, 02:26 PM) View Post

Just to confirm one point.

You use the Heat Gun on the motherboard with the Heat Sinks ON??? or OFF???

B

OFF is better as the thermal compound cant be used for temperatures higher than 120C and if you heat it up too much the pressure might flatten the solderballs below the GPU which would wreck it, on the pictures he had them ON though

#21 Boobers

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Posted 09 April 2008 - 02:15 PM

Kewl. Thanx biggrin.gif

On another note, I am glad to see confirmed that using Goo Gone is a good thing.

One of the hardest part of doing the 3RROD fix (at least for me) was the finger-breaking cleaning of the old Heat Sink compound using alcohol.. I came across a little can of Goo Gone Extreme in my wife's cleaning cupboard. What took me almost 20 mins to do with alcohol, I can do in 2 mins with the Goo Gone. And the results are 20 times better..

My only concern was that the strong cleaner in the Goo Gone might harm the structure or the circuitry of the GPU and CPU. But I haven't seen any thing like that. Knock on wood.. biggrin.gif


Thanx again.

B

Edited by Boobers, 09 April 2008 - 02:16 PM.


#22 jimwross

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Posted 09 April 2008 - 03:50 PM

QUOTE(Boobers @ Apr 9 2008, 08:51 AM) View Post

Kewl. Thanx biggrin.gif

On another note, I am glad to see confirmed that using Goo Gone is a good thing.

One of the hardest part of doing the 3RROD fix (at least for me) was the finger-breaking cleaning of the old Heat Sink compound using alcohol.. I came across a little can of Goo Gone Extreme in my wife's cleaning cupboard. What took me almost 20 mins to do with alcohol, I can do in 2 mins with the Goo Gone. And the results are 20 times better..

My only concern was that the strong cleaner in the Goo Gone might harm the structure or the circuitry of the GPU and CPU. But I haven't seen any thing like that. Knock on wood.. biggrin.gif
Thanx again.

B


Just clean the googone residue off w/ alcohol afterwards


#23 Boobers

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Posted 09 April 2008 - 06:58 PM

That's exactly what I do for the exact reason..

We must think alike..

I am sooo sorry for you. biggrin.gif biggrin.gif


B

#24 wllazer17

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Posted 11 April 2008 - 04:36 AM

Hi I am very interested in this method as I think it will solve my e74 error that has been troublesome to fix.

I was just wondering approximately what temperature the board must reach for this to work and what temperature would be TOO much? I have a heatgun but I think I might pick up an infrared thermometer for doing this. Thanks for any input

Edited by wllazer17, 11 April 2008 - 04:42 AM.


#25 jimwross

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Posted 11 April 2008 - 07:58 PM

QUOTE(wllazer17 @ Apr 10 2008, 11:12 PM) View Post

Hi I am very interested in this method as I think it will solve my e74 error that has been troublesome to fix.

I was just wondering approximately what temperature the board must reach for this to work and what temperature would be TOO much? I have a heatgun but I think I might pick up an infrared thermometer for doing this. Thanks for any input


You just need the temp to get hot enough to melt the solder points, mine has two settings, both work, you just have to be careful to keep the gun moving so it doesnt burn the board / other parts.

#26 Wilhelm_I

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Posted 12 April 2008 - 09:26 AM

QUOTE(jimwross @ Apr 11 2008, 09:34 PM) View Post

You just need the temp to get hot enough to melt the solder points, mine has two settings, both work, you just have to be careful to keep the gun moving so it doesnt burn the board / other parts.

I fixed my second 360 using this method it works very well
I started using my heatgun with the lowest step which is around 300C to "warm" it up...
After like a minute I switched to 500C and did this another 2-3 minutes
When you see the capacitors shaking you can decrease the temperature to 300C and let it cool down for half an hour.
After it cooled down the solder of the area looked a bit different it had a yellow/golden shine
I did this twice once for the upper side and after cooling down the bottom...
360 works flawless, I will keep you updated

#27 Rustmonkey

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Posted 12 April 2008 - 10:00 PM

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Apr 12 2008, 03:02 AM) View Post

I fixed my second 360 using this method it works very well
I started using my heatgun with the lowest step which is around 300C to "warm" it up...
After like a minute I switched to 500C and did this another 2-3 minutes
When you see the capacitors shaking you can decrease the temperature to 300C and let it cool down for half an hour.
After it cooled down the solder of the area looked a bit different it had a yellow/golden shine
I did this twice once for the upper side and after cooling down the bottom...
360 works flawless, I will keep you updated


Wow, if your solder turned yellow, you probabley heated it too much - solder will still conduct in this state, but it is inhibitted somewhat... just my two cents... smile.gif

On a side note, I just performed this fix today after figuring out some of it on my own... wish the SEARCH function of this forum would work decently... sad.gif But thanks for the write up on the tutorial!

Edited by Rustmonkey, 12 April 2008 - 10:01 PM.


#28 Wilhelm_I

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Posted 12 April 2008 - 10:15 PM

QUOTE(Rustmonkey @ Apr 12 2008, 11:36 PM) View Post

Wow, if your solder turned yellow, you probabley heated it too much - solder will still conduct in this state, but it is inhibitted somewhat... just my two cents... smile.gif

On a side note, I just performed this fix today after figuring out some of it on my own... wish the SEARCH function of this forum would work decently... sad.gif But thanks for the write up on the tutorial!

I just wanted to make sure that everything was liquified.
However it is quite hard to figure it out as you dont really see it when it does, the only sign is that the capacitors either start smoking or that the capacitor shakes when you move the heatgun.
This xbox was a quite hopeless one anyway so I didnt really have anymore I could do besides the oven trick but now it is working and will hopefully never die again

#29 Boobers

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Posted 12 April 2008 - 10:58 PM

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Apr 12 2008, 05:02 AM) View Post

I fixed my second 360 using this method it works very well
I started using my heatgun with the lowest step which is around 300C to "warm" it up...
After like a minute I switched to 500C and did this another 2-3 minutes
When you see the capacitors shaking you can decrease the temperature to 300C and let it cool down for half an hour.
After it cooled down the solder of the area looked a bit different it had a yellow/golden shine
I did this twice once for the upper side and after cooling down the bottom...
360 works flawless, I will keep you updated



The caps started "shaking"???

That's my biggest issue with the Heat Gun.. I never know how much is enough. I am always worried about frying something, so I am pretty sure I use it too little..

What I have done is to use my heat gun (WAGNER Model #0283015 one setting ON) about an inch or so off the MB, using circular motions and concentrating on the selected area of the MB (NIC area for E-73, Ana/GPU for E-74, etc etc)..

But it has never fixed the problem..

So, you say I should look for the caps to start "shaking".. Could you give me a bit more detail??

Thanx


B

#30 Wilhelm_I

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Posted 13 April 2008 - 01:22 AM

QUOTE(Boobers @ Apr 13 2008, 12:34 AM) View Post

The caps started "shaking"???

That's my biggest issue with the Heat Gun.. I never know how much is enough. I am always worried about frying something, so I am pretty sure I use it too little..

What I have done is to use my heat gun (WAGNER Model #0283015 one setting ON) about an inch or so off the MB, using circular motions and concentrating on the selected area of the MB (NIC area for E-73, Ana/GPU for E-74, etc etc)..

But it has never fixed the problem..

So, you say I should look for the caps to start "shaking".. Could you give me a bit more detail??

Thanx
B

I used the heatgun in the same way as you but I warmed it up with the first setting and switched then to the second(500C)
Well when the solder melted the capacitor is kind of swimming in the solder and as you are moving the heatgun around the whole time it kind of vibrates and slowly moves a bit because of the airflow.
You can compare it to a ripple of water when you blow at it...
You gotta stop then because otherwise it might move too far and then you will have to put it back in place...
it really takes a while so be patient and keep watching the bigger capacitors...
I guess I overdid it though because the color of the solder changed so be careful.
When I get my next E74 I will record a video...
The area depends as well putting pressure on the ana-chip fixed my first 360 so I concentrated on the ana-chip which fixed it.
This one was different though nothing brought it back to life so I heatgunned the area from the whole anachip over to the GPU from both sides.
After that it worked finally smile.gif

Edited by Wilhelm_I, 13 April 2008 - 01:24 AM.





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