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1 TB SATA Hard Drive Upgrade


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#106 run088

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Posted 31 October 2008 - 04:23 AM

In that it sits at the x2 5035 loading screen forever and after a long period of time if it does do anything else it will error out.I will be able to test in a pc soon because I am redoing my system.I will let you know how that turns out when I try it.


Did you look at the specs of the adapters I linked if so what do you think about those?Do you think that the flexibility of the speeds produced by these down to a 33bus and as high as a 150bus and the fact they are compatible back to windows95 will make a difference?

I am not for certain the exact speed that the xbox runs the hdd.I know that it is commonly known the xbox uses 133bus but I can not find a diagram that list the hdd speed.The processor runs at 133bus to the gpu but the gpu runs at 200 to the ram and the mcpx chip.Bunnys book gives no indicater in its diagrams I can find that clock the hdd speed if it did I missed it.

I am with everybody else as far as I think the problem is related to the speed but I dont know wheather or not for sure it is to slow or to fast.It does different things that lead me to believe it could be either way.

The best suggestion I can give anyone doing the mod right now until we figure out the exact problem in why the results very on the mod is to try several adapters.This worked for me and atleast one other person.

#107 Bomb Bloke

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Posted 31 October 2008 - 08:00 AM

In terms of operating system compatibility, I reckon they just throw that in to impress those who don't know better. That is to say, if the adapter isn't compatible with a given operating system then it isn't making the SATA drive appear as a proper PATA drive.

I mean, even DOS works with RAM drives (good luck finding something faster then those).

You might be onto something with the ATA speed, I really don't know enough to say otherwise. But I seem to remember that the console should work quite happily with an ATA133 drive via an 80 pin cable.

Well, I say 80 pin - I just did a bit of research on the things and it turns out they're more correctly known as 80 "conductor" cables. Those 40 extra wires are all grounds to soak up electrical interference - that is to say, they don't add more bandwidth to your IDE bus, they add reliability. They should offer improvements to drive performance regardless of what your system is "capable of".

It's also interesting to discover that originally if you wanted to use an IDE drive you needed to get an ISA (and then later a PCI) card to do it. Eventually it was Intel who got the bright idea of sticking the controller directly onto the motherboard, but best I can make out the things still run through a PCI BUS.

I found this site to be interesting reading, though I'm not sure how much of what it covers can be applied here.

Anyway! Plugged the drive into the oldest computer I could be bothered digging out (about 600mhz on the CPU, Windows 98), FDISK'ed it, formatted it, played games off it... I think my oldest rig runs at about 133mhz, if I get bored enough I might plug into that and see what happens.

Downloaded the app from Samsung to try and force SATA/150 but it didn't work (though it did at least detect the drive through the IDE adapter). Guess I'll try and hunt down an 80 wire cable or hijack a SATA capable computer off a friend, see what difference it makes.

Dunno if you're still about BigPotty, but if you are, I hear a lot of people fixed issues with this particular drive by disabling "command queuing"...

#108 run088

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Posted 31 October 2008 - 08:58 AM

I dont know what to think about the individual drive you have it could be the problem as well.

Because I have 3 different adapters and 2 hdds to test with and countless xboxes laying around I think it really just is an adapter issue of some kind now.This is the part the triggers the different results for errors.It does not matter what other part I have changed my 1tb or my 1.5 tb drive or the xboxes.Only the adapter itself.And 2 are from the exact same model line and bought from the same place 6 months apart.

The same member I quoted a few post ago had the same results having 2 different adapters that were the same model bought at the same time in a package deal and 1 worked 50% and the other worked 100% on the same xbox and hdd.

There could be a compatibility issue with the hdd.Maybe somehow we should start a compatibility thread on sata hdds and adapters.Maybe you could put somekind of poll thing in a thread and hdd models can be added and just a simple yes\no\yes with problems then in the thread people could list the setup and the results.This way we might also see the pattern.Or some other way if you have a better idea.It is something that a few people seem interested enough in to make it worth while to do based on the amount of different people who have posted in the thread about it.

#109 witnessmenow

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Posted 31 October 2008 - 05:52 PM

QUOTE(minino666 @ Oct 29 2008, 08:35 PM) View Post

witnessmenow. Can you read the main chip code, id, model marked? i mean the main chip on the sata-ide adaptor from http://www.dealextre...ls.dx/sku.12537

Thanks in advance


The chip reads:

SATALink
HW6298


I cant make out the bottom two lines.


#110 ThisLittlePiggy

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Posted 31 October 2008 - 05:56 PM

I wonder if we could just boot off the dvd drive, and have that default.xbe point to the real dash on the hard drive.

#111 witnessmenow

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 01:00 PM

I have my circuit basically built, The circuit powers the hard drive correctly anyways I just need to integrate the Xbox power button into it(should have it tested this evening).

I also didn't realise that pushing the power switch grounds the one of the pins on the xbox, thats what initiates the xbox turning on so i need to change one part of the circuit.

Also My circuit after 2 seconds outputs a continuous signal rather than a pulse, which is fine in terms of turning the xbox on and keeping it on but I'll have to see how it fairs with turning it off

When I have it working 100% I'll post up the circuit diagram and some pictures.

Did any one try using just a regular switch to do the same thing? I might still include one as a backup plan smile.gif

#112 Grim187

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Posted 05 November 2008 - 10:07 PM

i used a switch to turn on the power before i turned on the xbox and its been working good, today i booted it up and g was empty, im waiting on that adapter from dx hopefully that will fix the 09 problem.

Edit: i got the sata to ide from Deal Extreme and its the same problem as the one i got off of ebay.

Edited by Grim187, 08 November 2008 - 10:18 PM.


#113 BigPotty

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Posted 13 November 2008 - 11:14 PM

Hello Everyone.

Been very busy for the last few months.

Finally got around to getting my 3rd Samsung drive replaced. Samsung was such a pain in the ass to deal with! After a lot of run around, Newegg agreed to refund my money. Thanks again Newegg! No thanks goes to Samsung and your horrible quality control.

So now I have a nice new 1TB Hitachi Drive sitting here. Problem is, I'm getting the code 9 you all have been getting. This never happened with the Samsung drive. I've also noticed that I can really here the Hitachi drive spinning up over a period of about 3-5 seconds.

SO, I assume that this is too slow of a response for the Xbox. I've read about some of your current experiments with this mod. Was just wondering how things are going. I'm considering now to just buy a 750gb IDE Seagate drive instead of dealing with all of this.

That is, unless you guys have come up with some sort of solution.

Thanks to everyone for the input.

#114 witnessmenow

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Posted 15 November 2008 - 03:47 AM

QUOTE(run088 @ Oct 31 2008, 04:59 AM) View Post

In that it sits at the x2 5035 loading screen forever and after a long period of time if it does do anything else it will error out.


I'm running into a similar problem with a standard Splinter cell method softmod. Works fine with the standard MS dash. The green blob and X come up and then it just loads a blank screen. If you press eject at this stage the softmod dash loads up fine. I cant explain why this happens, im just happy it does! Maybe the same will work for you hopefully.


QUOTE(BigPotty @ Nov 13 2008, 11:50 PM) View Post

Hello Everyone.

Been very busy for the last few months.

Finally got around to getting my 3rd Samsung drive replaced. Samsung was such a pain in the ass to deal with! After a lot of run around, Newegg agreed to refund my money. Thanks again Newegg! No thanks goes to Samsung and your horrible quality control.

So now I have a nice new 1TB Hitachi Drive sitting here. Problem is, I'm getting the code 9 you all have been getting. This never happened with the Samsung drive. I've also noticed that I can really here the Hitachi drive spinning up over a period of about 3-5 seconds.

SO, I assume that this is too slow of a response for the Xbox. I've read about some of your current experiments with this mod. Was just wondering how things are going. I'm considering now to just buy a 750gb IDE Seagate drive instead of dealing with all of this.

That is, unless you guys have come up with some sort of solution.

Thanks to everyone for the input.


I'm using the Dealextreme adapter that has been linked to a few times and a Samsung spinpoint 1tb.

I've been using the power the hard drive first method

Things are going ok with my one. I thought I had a circuit designed to handle the delay (and i did except i hadnt fully integrated the xboxs power switch), but what i explained above your qoute has really put a dampner in that idea! I'd have to add another delay to eject the xbox, and then another delay to close the drive tray so I kinda gave up on the idea!

So for now I am just using a switch and I'm happy enough with that.

Turning on my xbox consists off:
Flicking the switch I added
After about 2-3 seconds pressing the power button
When its finished loading the green blob and X pressing the eject button

Turning off is as simple as flicking the switch i added

I have the TB partioned with a 460gb on a F drive and a G drive
when I'm FTP'n the xbox for some reason filezilla does not show this G drive
If i manually type "/g/" into the address bar when connected to the xbox it works as normal.

Other than that its working perfectly and Im quite happy with it. I have bought a few diffrent adapters to try out to see if they make any diffrence. I will post back and let you guys know if they do.

#115 jinn

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Posted 15 November 2008 - 01:59 PM

I have 5 different SATA to PATA/IDE adapters.
Tried one of them in my V1.0 TSOP flash with a ata100 or ata133 cable and all I got was was missing letters and garbage when i booted AID.
I changed the adapter and everything is working great now.
Tried the dame adapter but with the original xbox ide cable and now that adapter is working.
The only thing is it takes longer to boot and FTP seems a bit slow.
I also added some foam in the gap so the pins from the adapter wont touch the HDD.



#116 razer1000

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Posted 17 November 2008 - 12:42 PM

hi all,

same problems .... need your help, use a hitachi 1tb hdd equip sata-ide converter xbox version 1.0
and bios x2 4983.67

become following failures
7
13
9

is the failure the converter ???

#117 jinn

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Posted 17 November 2008 - 02:05 PM

4983.67 does not work you need x2 5035


#118 razer1000

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Posted 17 November 2008 - 03:31 PM

QUOTE(jinn @ Nov 17 2008, 02:41 PM) View Post

4983.67 does not work you need x2 5035


are you sure? then i have i big problem. i have only a aladin chip (SST49lf020)
i think this chip support only 256k files or bigger ?

i tryed allready with the 4983.67 and IND5003 bios

in both bios i can see the large HDD but no transfer posible ...

#119 BigPotty

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Posted 17 November 2008 - 10:46 PM

razer1000:
Your problems are probably NOT related to the your BIOS. If you need help getting the right BIOS though, then these might help:
http://forums.xbox-s...hp/t566417.html
http://forums.xbox-s...hp/t365537.html


Ok everyone. I got my USB IDE and SATA adapter today. Came with it's own power supply too. Hooked up the power supply and for the first time the XBOX did not FRAG with the Hitachi drive.

A couple things I've noticed:
- Hooking up the external power supply turned on the light for the SATA-IDE adapter.
- The Hitachi hard drive did NOT spin up when I turned on the power supply but not the XBOX.

So this leads me to believe that this problem is not related to timing issues at all. Well at least not directly. Someone had suggested before that the current draw for these drives was to much for the Xbox. I think this is probably the real problem. I noticed that when I turn on my Xbox, the Hitachi drive still takes a while to spin up. The Xbox "waits" for it though.

My guess is that there is to much current draw when you first push the Xbox's power button. Sort of a surge? I'm only theorizing here as I don't know that much about circuitry.

So maybe our options here are either a low current hard drive or an upgraded power supply? Anyone have any comments?

#120 razer1000

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Posted 18 November 2008 - 01:17 AM

QUOTE(BigPotty @ Nov 17 2008, 11:22 PM) View Post

razer1000:
Your problems are probably NOT related to the your BIOS. If you need help getting the right BIOS though, then these might help:
http://forums.xbox-s...hp/t566417.html
http://forums.xbox-s...hp/t365537.html


thx @BigPotty ,but i think 1tb is to big for the xbox.....
question what is better, a new IDE HDD or a smaller SATA HDD

IDE (500-750GB )
SATA (500-640GB )





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