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Modifying The Xbox 360 Dvd Drive For Pc


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#31 sthetix

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Posted 02 April 2009 - 10:19 AM

RDC :

Pin 3 : must be on 3.3 V to Close, and GND to Eject (Pick either one, right), USE SPDT switch


What about pin 4 ?

For Lite-On, must I put 3.3V to pin 4? or NC ?

Thanks



#32 xrkahn76

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Posted 04 April 2009 - 06:14 AM

QUOTE(sthetix @ Apr 2 2009, 03:55 AM) View Post

RDC :

Pin 3 : must be on 3.3 V to Close, and GND to Eject (Pick either one, right), USE SPDT switch
What about pin 4 ?

For Lite-On, must I put 3.3V to pin 4? or NC ?

Thanks



Don't mean to step on your toes RDC, just thought I would hit this one-

Pin 4 only matters for Hitachi drives, except 78 and 79's. For All drives, pin 4 on 3.3V puts the drive into a normal operating state, simulating the same setting that comes from the motherboard.

If you are building this simply to do a liteon, with no intention of doing any other drive, or never doing a hitachi <78 then you only need a DPST for power, connecting the 5v and 12v, and a SPDT for the eject, or DPDT if using an indicator led.

When you do your liteon drive, connect the drive first with the sata and your homebrew power adapter we are discussing here. Don't forget to plug in your probe! ( easy to incorporate into this same device if also homebrew) After everything is connnected, set the DPST for power in the on position and the eject to the closed position, then power up your pc. Once booted into windows or dos, and you see that the drive is recognized, hit the eject button, ejecting the tray. Then hit the power switch to off, and then return the eject to the closed position. Push the drive halfway back in, then hit the power switch to restore power. You are ready to proceed using the probe! If you have problems getting the key using the probe, you may need to experiment with the tray, moving it alil further closed or less. Personally, I close it to where the cut out section stops being straight and starts to curve, but that is a matter for another thread. Outside of that, you should be golden.

#33 RDC

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Posted 04 April 2009 - 06:31 AM

QUOTE(xrkahn76 @ Apr 4 2009, 01:50 AM) View Post

Don't mean to step on your toes RDC, just thought I would hit this one-

Trust me, yer not, and I've already had to answer these questions multiple times in PMs.

#34 dakota76

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Posted 08 April 2009 - 11:48 PM

RDC

Thanks for the info and list of parts
but i didnt understand what you were saying about the 3.3v line

#35 sthetix

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 01:51 AM

RDC, I've made a DVD Adapter. So here's the configuration :

1. Pin 3 is floating. It will be momentarily connected to GROUND to eject the tray and I will have to hold the button to close the tray. It is working on Lite-On and BenQ.
2. Pin 4 is NC - Not connected to anything
3. Only Pin 6 is connected to 3.3V

Any other else is the same as your drawing.

The main problem is :

I cannot power up Hitachi drive. It won't be recognized and it wont eject at all.
I've used 3.3V 1.A voltage Regulator and the the other voltage supply is correct at 5V and 12V.

Any help RDC?







#36 muzland

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 12:50 PM

Hi,

Can anyone confirm if the 3.3V supply is indeed necessary as I am reading conflicting things?

From what I can tell there are 4 types of DVD Hardware.

1) Toshiba Samsung - Two types of firmware MS25 and MS28. I am told 3.3V not strictly necessary as pin 7 (from drive perspective) unconnected. Eject can be achieved by shorting pin 8 to GND.
2) Hitachi - Various firmwares 48,49, 78, 79, etc. I this the same hardware though?
3) Benq
4) Lite-on

Can anyone confirm if they have these drives working with eject functionality without the 3.3V?

The reason I ask is that if we do not need to supply 3.3V then a simple cable will suffice to power the drives from a PC and be able to achieve flashing.

Cheers
Muzland



#37 Col.Havoc

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 09:51 PM

RDC: Two questions.

I am having a problem finding a 5v regulator local to me, and without paying $12 to ship one from newark, I was wondering if I had these options.

Could I use a 5v Regulator like this one http://www.thesource...product=2761770 and use a resistor to step it down to 3.3v? Or, can I just go without it, and say no to an eject button, and will Windows Vista take care of ejecting/loading the drive tray?

Thanks in advance.

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#38 Col.Havoc

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Posted 05 June 2009 - 09:56 AM

QUOTE(Col.Havoc @ Jun 1 2009, 05:51 PM) View Post

RDC: Two questions.

I am having a problem finding a 5v regulator local to me, and without paying $12 to ship one from newark, I was wondering if I had these options.

Could I use a 5v Regulator like this one http://www.thesource...product=2761770 and use a resistor to step it down to 3.3v? Or, can I just go without it, and say no to an eject button, and will Windows Vista take care of ejecting/loading the drive tray?

Thanks in advance.

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BUMP

#39 rrburkha

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 08:42 AM

do you think 3.5 volts would be too much for the required 3.3v? i don't really want to order a 3.3v regulator. i was thinking about using a 5v regulator and putting 2 diodes on the output, doing this gives me about 3.5 volts.

QUOTE(Col.Havoc @ Jun 5 2009, 03:56 AM) View Post

BUMP


using a voltage divider (check wikipedia, i think this is what you are talking about) doesn't seem to work because the voltage changes when you add additional loads. it may be possible but would require some clever design.

#40 majinsoftware

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 08:56 AM

Well you can try 3.5V but are you really willing to risk the xbox drive which costs more then a little 3.3V regulator.

#41 rrburkha

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 10:56 PM

haha yeah good point. i ordered one from ebay for about $3.50 including shipping.

#42 Dre@m

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Posted 07 August 2009 - 10:59 AM

Nice tut RDC.

Schematic

#43 kspamhere

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Posted 01 September 2009 - 11:50 AM

hey i need some help, my 5v from the first switch just goes up in smoke is it because i dont have a cap between it and ground?

edit: Yes it is because i had no cap. thanks

Edited by kspamhere, 01 September 2009 - 12:05 PM.


#44 SilentBob1638

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 12:45 AM

What are the exact specs for the capacitors? I've bought two polarized electrolytic capacitors (60v, 0.47F). Are these ok? Is it right that 60v is just the maximum voltage and doesn't really matter?

Other threads talk about mandatory 'low-ESR' capacitors for LM3940 (Voltage regulator). What about this?

Mine look similar to this:
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#45 kspamhere

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Posted 21 September 2009 - 09:43 PM

ive got one that says 50v, 4.7uF
dunno exactly

i need some help i can power all my drives except my liteon dg-16d2s with my homemade kit.this is the first liteon ive tried. it works in xbox, but my connectivity kit just doesnt do anything with it i cant eject.ive tried manually but nothing hapopens any ideas




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