Edited by zazzz, 04 June 2010 - 11:07 PM.
Posted 04 June 2010 - 11:06 PM
Posted 05 June 2010 - 05:14 AM
Just use 2 of the leads, the center one and one of the outside ones, it ends up being the same thing when it's all wired up, just a Resistor that gets lower in value when pressed/pulled.
Posted 25 June 2010 - 09:25 PM
Posted 25 June 2010 - 11:41 PM
As far as rewiring the sticks goes, the right stick will still have all of the connections there, but the left stick you'll have to trace back the Pole connections and wire to alternate spots, some Resistors on the board in this case. The VCC and GND for the sticks sensors is the same for all of them, so any of them will do for those connections.
If it's a V2.5 1.05 you'll also have to remove the small board on there that has the crystal on it and rewire it so the board will sit more flat against the 360 board.
Posted 27 June 2010 - 03:27 AM
Posted 24 August 2010 - 11:30 PM
I decided to have a go at making a ps360 controller and this forum has been priceless !!
I've got the 360 board pretty much wired up ready but now I have a prob with the sony one : VX 1.03 Board.
Had a right nightmare removing the analog sticks from it and knocked off a resistor (RT3) right next to the left analog.
I managed to find it on the carpet but then it flew out of the tweezers just as I was about to solder it back on lol, no idea where it is now
Would like to know whats so special about these Brown RT resistors compared to the majority that are blue?
I have checked RT2 + RT4 & RT5 on the right analogs circuit with a meter and they all measure around 7k Ohms,would soldering in a normal 7k resistor in RT3's place work ok?
Thanks in advance if someone is able to educate me
Edited by Bos, 24 August 2010 - 11:34 PM.
Posted 25 August 2010 - 03:17 AM
It's a Thermistor, or Thermal Resistor, hence RT for Resistor Thermal. It changes value depending on the temperature (NTC in this case) and needs to be replaced with the same type and value, but you'll really only get that from another PS3 controller board without knowing all of the specs of it, knowing that it's NTC, 0402 and 12k aren't exactly enough.
Replacing it with a fixed value Resistor will cause that Stick to drift in one direction or another at some point.
Blue Resistors are typically Precision Resistors, 2% or less, but they can be Black or any color really, just depends on who makes them.
Edited by RDC, 25 August 2010 - 03:20 AM.
Posted 26 August 2010 - 12:17 PM
It explains why I was getting slightly diff readings from them at various times, seems strange they'd use em in a console controller though.
I had a feeling you might be the man with the answers
Posted 28 August 2010 - 02:27 AM
All the desoldering went smoothly though so I obviously needed some practice at it.
Just 1 small question for ya :
I've isolated all the common zones on the 360 board (CG2) and I've left the common for the LED's also connected to the reset switch.
This will suffice right? or do I need to isolate the switch and wire it to com1/com2 etc.?
Edited by Bos, 28 August 2010 - 02:30 AM.
Posted 28 August 2010 - 05:24 AM
You'll need to isolate all of the LED common from ground, unless that's what you meant, as the PS3 controller uses a Common Anode setup whereas on the CG2 it's Common Cathode.
You didn't need to isolate all of the ground connections, since the [ ], X, O, /\, R1 and R2 all share the same COM2 connection, again unless that's what you meant, but if you isolated them all then what you've done is make it so you'll need to use around 90% more wiring than is necessary.
The Reset (Sync) switch needs to be left connected to Ground like it already is, that's the only button on the entire board that you don't have to change or isolate anything on.
The best thing to do with the miniBoard there (that has the X-tal on it) is to desolder it from the board, then remove the X-tal from the miniboard, insulate the top of it with a piece of tape or something and just rewire it back up with 4 wires to the original spots, but however you go about it as long as it's wired back up it'll be good to go, just keep the wiring for it as short as possible.
Posted 28 August 2010 - 10:33 PM
And yeah I agree its the worst 360 board but I really liked the new all black controllers + I'm only doing this once.
Theres probably an easier way to do these but what I've done is isolate the left and right sides of the board. I've got just one COM1 wire connected to left hand side for D-Pad + L1/L2 and one COM2 wire on the right hand side connected to  /\ X O + R1/R2.
Also isolated the PS (Home) button on its own and Start + Select together.
I should have explained the part about the LED's and Reset Switch a little better!
What I've done is isolated the LED's and spun all 4 of em around so they will be common anode the same as the DS3 but I also kept the Reset Switch connected to this common thinking that it needed a + source.
I see now that the switch needs cutting off from the LED common and bridging to ground.
Roughly how many wires should I have with these 2 boards?, I'm in the 30's at the moment and still need to do the 4 for the USB/PnC cable and 2 for battery connector.
Just been looking at that X-tal thingy and this one only needs 3 wires : Pins 3/5/6 are ground,2/4 are connected together and then just pin 1 on its own.Would make positioning easier removing it from the miniboard but is it fairly easy to remove without butchering it?
Edited by Bos, 28 August 2010 - 10:48 PM.
Posted 28 August 2010 - 11:09 PM
All of the 360 boards are the same mechanically and can be swapped around between shells, so trading just that board for another version would have been a bit easier on you, though you're a bit far into the project now for that info to be of any real use.
It'll be around 40 to 50 wires when you're all done with it, depending on how you go about some things, but any more than that and you're going about something the long way, likewise any less than that and you can show me how to build one.
If you have a hot air setup you can remove it easy enough, but if not just leave it on the board and rewire, just make sure it's in a place that you have room for it.
Posted 03 September 2010 - 12:07 PM
The controller is all done now ....at last, took me ages to get it all right.
The first attempt it wouldn't turn on and I realised after stripping it all down again that it was a couple of wires I had to move to get it into the case were wrong.
Made a much neater job on the wiring 2nd time round though, must be around the 50 mark for wires in it.
Spent ages sorting the pots out for L2/R2 triggers as the 10k on em was far too high, only activated at about 80-90% of thier travel and wouldn't even register when FF or Rewinding on a movie.
Got them down to 6.5k and 580 ohm when fully pressed and they work perfectly now.
I enjoyed doing it 90% of the time & Thx to you for showing us the way !
Posted 05 September 2010 - 07:39 AM
No laughing @ the butchered solder points that lifted on the DS3 board !
Edited by Bos, 05 September 2010 - 07:45 AM.
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