Yeh it's absolutely brilliant, used it to play Live for Speed if anyone knows it..
You HAVE TO sync the controller with the RF board plugged into your (any) Xbox.. There are instructions on the entire process here: http://forums.xbox-e...p...138&start=0
Really interesting reading and they also link to how to sync it with your PC (although you've to add + program a PIC).
The lads over on X-E.com really know what they're doing!
There are issues with the deadzones when using it, the slightest shake of the controller and it moves the joysticks (there is absolutely no "play" or free movement that's not detected basically). Apparently it's the exact same with the genuine one too, thanks MS!!
Pinnacle game profiler is what everyone says to use to perfect it, but I didn't find it great, there's XBCD also, but that's for wired controllers apparently (I couldn't get that to work either).
P.S. OP, you need to add 3.3v to where your red wire is, and ground that 3.3v supply to where your black cable is.. Move the black up one row onto the last point on the right, then move the red cable to the row below, on the leftmost point. Yaywoop over on X-E.com pretty much goes through every step and beyond with pics. He also links to a modified driver file after you use Microsoft's drivers and install them.
The annoying thing for me is, mine's stopped working and it's gonna be impossible to trouble shoot (it was working, I played it for days!). Checked wiring, re-installed drivers, now I'm trying to find a handy/reliable 3.3v source (originally used a 1.5v AA battery to be safe and not blow something like using 5v e.g. USB which worked, temporarily). It just won't pop up in Windows anymore (also, apparently works on Linux but I also had it on Win 7 on my Macbook).
Now, anyone know how to fix E73 + E74? Got 2 Jtags, Falcon + Xenon sitting here RROD'd...
Edited by Mistawes, 12 August 2010 - 09:41 AM.