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3 Rrod, Did X-clamp Replacement, Now 2 Rrod


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#1 IlyaK

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Posted 14 August 2008 - 05:20 PM

So a few days I got the 3 RRoD.

I took everything apart...did the X-Clamp fix and tried it. Nothing. My brick actually ended up going to permanent red. I went to my brothers, re-did everything at his house (he did the fix a few days ago as well - his worked), and tried it on his brick. His brick...never bricked. So anyway...we ended up getting 2 RRoD (overheating).

I took it home cause it was late, and over the course of that 30min drive it cooled down considerably.

I tried it again at home after reading that I should bake the machine for 15 minutes by putting pretty much everything back together and setting the fan ontop of the DVD-ROM (one fan cooling the CPU, the other cooling nothing). This was supposed to keep the XBox running so the GPU would bake, while keeping the CPU running so the XBox woudn't shut off. Great, I baked it for 13 minutes...let it cool for 15 minutes..and tried. Sure enough, my XBox fired up right away....but that only lasted for 20 seconds.

This is where I'm stuck. I have cooled it over night, and when I fire it up the same way as the paragaph above (article suggested baking the GPU more than once for some systems), I immediately get 2 RRoD. Why won't it let me run the system like before? I've tried loosening and tightening the screws on the back of the heat sinks as per the X-Clamp article, but no luck.

Some help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Here are some pictures. I had a thin layer of AS5, small credit card pieces, two washers, etc. Everything was done pretty much to a T. What am I missing? I know what I'm missing...my stinkin XBox!

*** NOTE: The heat sinks DO NOT get any cleaner than this. I tried everything. I work in IT with PC's every day, this is the best it gets. ***

IPB Image

IPB Image

IPB Image

IPB Image

IPB Image

Edited by IlyaK, 14 August 2008 - 05:23 PM.


#2 IlyaK

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Posted 14 August 2008 - 11:33 PM

Anyone?

EDIT: Nevermind, I got it working by making the screws tighter on the heat sinks.

Edited by IlyaK, 14 August 2008 - 11:44 PM.


#3 Jalfrezi

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Posted 17 August 2008 - 06:47 PM

ive been told to use a heat gun on the chips to resolder the balls then cool and refit

as my xclamp fix lasted approx 3 months then bang went again

there's some good tips about not sure all work


got a new xbox with philips drive so no flashing or chipping for me so the old box needs fixing asap


oh well M$ just keep getting richer

#4 Arakon

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Posted 17 August 2008 - 11:07 PM

your washers might simply be too thick, so the heatsinks aren't flush on the die of the chips.
or you damaged the temperature sensor beneath the CPU.. no chance to fix that short of removing the CPU, though.


#5 swampy1111

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Posted 22 August 2008 - 09:59 PM

if the heads of the bolts are to thick the board don''t sit corectly on the tray at the bottom and because its raised slightly the cpu heatsink pushes on the top of the case
usually they will work ok until the case is put back on

Edited by swampy1111, 22 August 2008 - 09:59 PM.


#6 turbotronic

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Posted 09 September 2008 - 02:30 AM

QUOTE(swampy1111 @ Aug 22 2008, 04:35 PM) View Post

if the heads of the bolts are to thick the board don''t sit corectly on the tray at the bottom and because its raised slightly the cpu heatsink pushes on the top of the case
usually they will work ok until the case is put back on


If I have read that correctly, an easy fix for that is to drill the little holes where the factory bolts were for the x-clamps to the size of the bolt heads you have. I had to use a 13/32 size drill bit. The bolt head can easily slip into the hole and not snag any if I ever have to remove the motherboard again.

As far as the 3ROL, different methods work for different people. Some have luck with just removing the x-clamps and applying AS5. I've seen some put little heatsinks on the RAM that is exposed next to the GPU heatsink. One member went as far as modifying the GPU heatsink so that it is only a heatsink for the GPU. They had heatsinks on all four RAM chips.

Have you checked to see what Secondary Error Code you were getting? That will help you trace down the problem so you may focus on it.

Keep trying. I know it is very frustrating. I was able to fix my Xbox 360 (I recieved for free=3ROL) with much ease. Though, I'm sure it won't last. I'm currently in the process of fixing my nephew's xbox and it's giving me heck. His mother isn't too happy with it and plans to get him a PS3 for Christmas.

Edited by turbotronic, 09 September 2008 - 02:45 AM.


#7 warbeast

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Posted 18 September 2008 - 10:52 PM

funny enuff i have never seen a 3rrod but fixed plenty with no video output same as 3rrod really

i brought a 2000watt heat gun i use that for about a min or two around the gpu no more as it melts solder after 4secs lol wave it around the gpu so to not keep the heat on 1 spot tto long!
i then use the 4 sping washers and 8 normal washers plus arctic silver paste
like others have said the motherboard sits high with the screw heads so drill holes or if like me your drill is pants and wont cut the case get med evil on it with a hammer and metal rod i used the drill bit and made 4 dents over the 4 holes for the bolt heads to sit in nice

oh i also tighting the bots as tight as they can go using a screw driver! i know some people dont like doing this but ive always done the bolts up as tight as my arms will allow and never had a problem yet

Edited by warbeast, 18 September 2008 - 11:01 PM.


#8 dave-9984

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Posted 02 October 2008 - 05:01 PM

[quote name='warbeast' date='Sep 18 2008, 11:28 PM' post='4345066']
funny enuff i have never seen a 3rrod but fixed plenty with no video output same as 3rrod really

i have fixed mine m8 works a treat. had 3 red lights and there was no video out put at all so was thinkin thats the GPU,so i did the x-clamp on both heat sinks and it didnt work so i used just 2 washers on each of the screws for the CPU and no rubber shit. and made them as tight as a could and the board has changed shape a bit but then you use the x-clamp on the GPU and it gives it better conection and i went 1 step ferther and added a fan into the GPU heatsink he he had to use a dremmil to do it but its sound as a pound and i put it into a towel to try and over heat it and 2 hours l8r it still going strong so that fan has helped i think. how do you load a pic up as i am new to this and i will sort the pics out

#9 Wilhelm_I

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Posted 03 October 2008 - 09:00 AM

You always have to use 2x 1mm washers or 1x a 2mm washer.
The maximum height is like 2mm( 3 washers=3mm) otherwise the heatsink wont make any contact because there is a gap in between...

#10 charlie jennings

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Posted 14 October 2008 - 11:07 AM

Is it like this?

[HS]
[Steel Washer]
[Nylon Washer]
[MTB]
[Spring Washer]
[Screw]

I've done it 3 times and it works great.

1. Tighten your bolts up slightly (if you over tighten at this point you can crush the Chip)
2. Unplug your fan
3. turn your xbox on (you should get 3 red lights)
4. Wait for the 2 red lights.
5. Wait for the xbox to cool for up to 30 mins [A hair dryer/external fan may help. I personally (carefully) removed my motherboard and put it in a table with a fan pointing at it.]
6. Your xbox should work fine. Have fun.


Hope this helps,
Charlie
xFix

#11 mark1973

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Posted 14 October 2008 - 12:56 PM

QUOTE(IlyaK @ Aug 15 2008, 12:09 AM) View Post

Anyone?

EDIT: Nevermind, I got it working by making the screws tighter on the heat sinks.



Check out lawdawgs thead mate and see my added info

I use

screw
2 steel washers
mother board
2 steels washers
heat sink

good luck

Edited by mark1973, 14 October 2008 - 12:57 PM.


#12 Elmlea

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 02:12 AM

I've been learning about this repair today, just to have it stored away in case my 360 gives me 3 lights after its 3-year warranty expires.

I'm not entirely sure what you're meant to be doing when you leave it on to overheat. Are you using the heat generated from a poorly-sinked GPU to melt the solder to "repair itself?"

If so, that's genius, and I can't wait to try it..!

#13 Wilhelm_I

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 05:11 PM

QUOTE(Elmlea @ Nov 9 2008, 02:48 AM) View Post

I've been learning about this repair today, just to have it stored away in case my 360 gives me 3 lights after its 3-year warranty expires.

I'm not entirely sure what you're meant to be doing when you leave it on to overheat. Are you using the heat generated from a poorly-sinked GPU to melt the solder to "repair itself?"

If so, that's genius, and I can't wait to try it..!

You are actually damaging the GPU thats it, dont do that!

When you overheat it the solder will reconnect itself temporarily by flexing/expanding.
Do the X-CLamp replacement and adjust the screws until you get it to work if you still think you have to overheat it in order to get it to work do your xbox a favour and get a heatgun to melt the solder properly, this is the only permanent fix.
It isnt worth damagin it even more for an hour of gameplay...

When it overheats it reaches a max temp of 90C, to melt the solder you need 218C, this should make it quite clear even for the last one...

#14 Elmlea

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Posted 10 November 2008 - 06:33 PM

QUOTE(Wilhelm_I @ Nov 9 2008, 04:47 PM) View Post

You are actually damaging the GPU thats it, dont do that!

When you overheat it the solder will reconnect itself temporarily by flexing/expanding.
Do the X-CLamp replacement and adjust the screws until you get it to work if you still think you have to overheat it in order to get it to work do your xbox a favour and get a heatgun to melt the solder properly, this is the only permanent fix.


I did think you'd need a higher temperature to melt the solder. I didn't phrase my question very well!

I was under the impression that the 3RLOD problem meant that the constant heating cycles through the GPU or CPU had caused the solder to flex and crack, breaking a connection somewhere.

How does this X-clamp replacement fix the problem? What actual problem is it repairing?




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