Jump to content


Photo

Bonked Replacement Samsung Ts-h943 Ms28


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 Goldeye

Goldeye

    X-S Enthusiast

  • Members
  • 16 posts

Posted 26 October 2008 - 02:18 PM

I'm trying to replace a lite-on with an ms28. I have an intel chipset so I used the vcc switch method to get a dump of the ms28's f/w, but the dump I got is an unknown version in the firmware tools. Is there a probable explanation for this, or should I figure this drive is bricked for one of my following dumb mistakes?

Dumb mistake 1:
In desoldering the Vcc resistor I unintentionally desoldered R409 (the resistor to the right of Vcc) as well. Long story short, I lost the original resistor, and replaced it with a 150kOhm spare. If anyone can check the actual value of R409, and/or suggest whether this would cause the failure, I'd appreciate it immensely.

Dumb mistake 2:
I dropped the Vcc switch itself into the xbox, shorting it to the heatsink. A spark and temporary RROD resulted, and I suspect I could have burned something out. I figure this resulted in a current spike from the 5v source through the heatsink; the firmware chip shouldn't have been


Other info:
The dump was made with mtkflash r /m orig.bin
I was able to write that orig.bin back to the drive successfully.

Again, any help is greatly appreciated.

#2 sosotiit

sosotiit

    X-S Transcendental

  • Head Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,034 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Canada
  • Interests:Techno gadgets and espresso coffee
  • Xbox Version:v1.6
  • 360 version:v3.0 (falcon)

Posted 26 October 2008 - 02:37 PM

you pretty much summarized all the reason not to use the vcc and get a 15$ VIa 6421 card here.

Sorry I know you really do not need to ear that at this point, and it is not meant with any disrespect. But this is so typical of everything that could go wrong, and I am very afraid you drive is dead ( and your Mboard hopefully can be saved).

try putting your liteon back to see if your 360 still work

again, hope everything turns for the best

soso




#3 Goldeye

Goldeye

    X-S Enthusiast

  • Members
  • 16 posts

Posted 26 October 2008 - 02:52 PM

True enough. But it's a good learning experience for the engineering student who's trying to save money. I have plenty more soldering to do once components for the liteon key dump arrive in the mail smile.gif
I also think that it should still be salvageable. I really doubt the short burned anything out since it was just drawing current from the drive pcb 5v source to the xbox ground (assuming the heatsink is grounded), after the considerations below, I think the replacement resistor might actually be to blame and I can just try other replacement resistors.

My liteon remains untouched and the 360 seemed to be booting fine with the samsung pcb connected, so I am not worried that I bricked the box (though I haven't tested it yet =x )


Anyway, back to the original topic:

In hindsight, testing the write might have been a very bad idea as I could have lost part of the firmware, or it might not have overwritten any parts that weren't read in the first place. Is there anywhere I can get a samsung f/w to work off of?

I found the datasheet for the firmware chip. I don't follow it too well, but the swapped resistor seems to lead to A14, which I guess has CMOS inputs , which range from low < 0.8 to high > 2.0. 150kOhm will definitely put that low where it might have been high before, so I'm going to try smaller resistors tomorrow if no one can check that number out.

Edited by Goldeye, 26 October 2008 - 02:53 PM.


#4 Goldeye

Goldeye

    X-S Enthusiast

  • Members
  • 16 posts

Posted 26 October 2008 - 11:29 PM

Reiterating for anyone who isn't reading the whole topic but might be able to help.
If you can open up a samsung ts-h943, please check what number is on resistor 409 (right next to the resistor pulled for the VCC switch). Much appreciated (size reduced by soso)

Edited by sosotiit, 27 October 2008 - 01:23 AM.


#5 sosotiit

sosotiit

    X-S Transcendental

  • Head Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,034 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Canada
  • Interests:Techno gadgets and espresso coffee
  • Xbox Version:v1.6
  • 360 version:v3.0 (falcon)

Posted 27 October 2008 - 01:25 AM

patience,
rules: -one bump per day
-no need to use size 6 font because you are impatient

as well , it might not encourage people to answer

soso

Edited by sosotiit, 27 October 2008 - 01:26 AM.


#6 Goldeye

Goldeye

    X-S Enthusiast

  • Members
  • 16 posts

Posted 27 October 2008 - 05:24 AM

Sorry soso, I figured with a lot of technical info there the request would be overlooked. I probably would've been fine just pushing font size up by one but I don't know the default.

Some new info:
I was at able to get the drive to appear and read in mtkflash last night, even after the bios didn't find it. Now I can't get it to appear in the mtkflash list, and using a different drive to trigger the list I still can't get it to dump the fw. I managed to knock off the solder pad for the resistor I lost, so I've been connecting 5v with a variety of resistors to A17, the top pin on the right side of the firmware chip, so maybe that's what's broken now.

#7 Goldeye

Goldeye

    X-S Enthusiast

  • Members
  • 16 posts

Posted 28 October 2008 - 11:12 PM

I ended up getting a new drive.
The resistor in question reads 223, ie 22kOhm




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users