Bonked Replacement Samsung Ts-h943 Ms28
Posted 26 October 2008 - 02:18 PM
Dumb mistake 1:
In desoldering the Vcc resistor I unintentionally desoldered R409 (the resistor to the right of Vcc) as well. Long story short, I lost the original resistor, and replaced it with a 150kOhm spare. If anyone can check the actual value of R409, and/or suggest whether this would cause the failure, I'd appreciate it immensely.
Dumb mistake 2:
I dropped the Vcc switch itself into the xbox, shorting it to the heatsink. A spark and temporary RROD resulted, and I suspect I could have burned something out. I figure this resulted in a current spike from the 5v source through the heatsink; the firmware chip shouldn't have been
The dump was made with mtkflash r /m orig.bin
I was able to write that orig.bin back to the drive successfully.
Again, any help is greatly appreciated.
Posted 26 October 2008 - 02:37 PM
Sorry I know you really do not need to ear that at this point, and it is not meant with any disrespect. But this is so typical of everything that could go wrong, and I am very afraid you drive is dead ( and your Mboard hopefully can be saved).
try putting your liteon back to see if your 360 still work
again, hope everything turns for the best
Posted 26 October 2008 - 02:52 PM
I also think that it should still be salvageable. I really doubt the short burned anything out since it was just drawing current from the drive pcb 5v source to the xbox ground (assuming the heatsink is grounded), after the considerations below, I think the replacement resistor might actually be to blame and I can just try other replacement resistors.
My liteon remains untouched and the 360 seemed to be booting fine with the samsung pcb connected, so I am not worried that I bricked the box (though I haven't tested it yet =x )
Anyway, back to the original topic:
In hindsight, testing the write might have been a very bad idea as I could have lost part of the firmware, or it might not have overwritten any parts that weren't read in the first place. Is there anywhere I can get a samsung f/w to work off of?
I found the datasheet for the firmware chip. I don't follow it too well, but the swapped resistor seems to lead to A14, which I guess has CMOS inputs , which range from low < 0.8 to high > 2.0. 150kOhm will definitely put that low where it might have been high before, so I'm going to try smaller resistors tomorrow if no one can check that number out.
Edited by Goldeye, 26 October 2008 - 02:53 PM.
Posted 26 October 2008 - 11:29 PM
If you can open up a samsung ts-h943, please check what number is on resistor 409 (right next to the resistor pulled for the VCC switch). Much appreciated (size reduced by soso)
Edited by sosotiit, 27 October 2008 - 01:23 AM.
Posted 27 October 2008 - 01:25 AM
rules: -one bump per day
-no need to use size 6 font because you are impatient
as well , it might not encourage people to answer
Edited by sosotiit, 27 October 2008 - 01:26 AM.
Posted 27 October 2008 - 05:24 AM
Some new info:
I was at able to get the drive to appear and read in mtkflash last night, even after the bios didn't find it. Now I can't get it to appear in the mtkflash list, and using a different drive to trigger the list I still can't get it to dump the fw. I managed to knock off the solder pad for the resistor I lost, so I've been connecting 5v with a variety of resistors to A17, the top pin on the right side of the firmware chip, so maybe that's what's broken now.
Posted 28 October 2008 - 11:12 PM
The resistor in question reads 223, ie 22kOhm
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