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Free-form Rapid Fire Mod Tutorial With Pictures


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#1 Salincer

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Posted 12 November 2008 - 01:19 AM

This is a tutorial on how to make a R/F RT TLC555 Free-form tutorial. I advise that you should make a breadboard mod before you do this one. I am not responsible for any damage you do to your controller or if you cant do the mod right. Use at your own risk. There are some things i expect you to know before you do this mod, like:

What type of controller you have (CG, New CG, Matrix, etc.)
How to read a Chip (I do a little run-down on this)
How to solder of corse
How to drill the holes for the buttons and potentometer
How to make a regular R/F Mod

Okay well here we go. Im going to upload pictures..and they are not the best i know. Also, if you have any additional things you want to add to this tutorial (Like better pictures), feel free too. Ill just get a mod to edit this out.

Parts necessary.....Radio Shack identification number
TLC555 Timer.....276-1718
10K ohm resistor.....
1.8K ohm resistor .....*
220 ohm resistor.....*
100K ohm potentiometer.....271-284
1uF tantalum capacitor.....272-1434
100pF capacitor.....272-135
Push button switch .....275-0646
NPN switching transistor.....276-1617*
Wire (personally, I used 30 AWG)

*= If you got a new CG board, then you do NOT need these items

Tools Necessary
Soldering iron
Drill (for the holes)
Some soldering tools (RS has a nice little kit for 5$)


Once again, KNOW WHAT TYPE OF CONTROLLER YOU HAVE BEFORE YOU BEGIN.

Look at the picture below. Notice that there is a little 'notch' on a cornor there, that indicates pin 1. So looking at it from pins down like the picture...its sorta like this
1 o 8
2 7
3 6
4 5

http://img.photobuck.../p1010003-1.jpg

1. Attach pin 2 & 6 (I pushed mine flat against the chip)

http://img.photobuck.../p1010005-2.jpg

2. Solder a wire from pin 4 to 8 (I put mine ontop of the chip)

http://img.photobuck...ds/p1010017.jpg

3. Look at your yellow capacitor. It should have a very small “plus” sign on it. That is the positive side. Solder the 1uF capacitor onto pin 1 &2, the positive side going into pin 2. I layed mine on the chip with the pins pointing up.

http://img.photobuck...ds/p1010030.jpg
http://img.photobuck...ds/p1010031.jpg

4. Attach the 10k resistor to pins 7 & 8. I MESSED UP IN THE PICTURE. Was totaly off...i put it on like 3 & 4

http://img.photobuck...ds/P1010036.jpg

5. Attach the orange cap to pins 5 and 1. i dont know if the capacitor has positives or negatives...but i layed it flat on the chip with 104m print on top.

http://img.photobuck...ds/p1010045.jpg

*-*-*-*-*-*-* Pretty easy so far..take you a break, also now note what type of controller you have...if you have a new CG controller board...skip to step 11 *-*-*-*-*-*-*

6. Put the npn transistor flat on a flat surface. Have the leads pointing away from you. take the lead to the left and attach it to pin 1.

http://img.photobuck...ds/p1010048.jpg
http://img.photobuck...ds/p1010047.jpg

7. Attach a 220 ohm to one of the leads of your button

Pretty simple..no pics for this step


8. Attach a 1.8k ohm to your trigger point lead. (On the controller the middle lead)

Pretty simple again...

9. Now the fun part...WIRES tongue.gif. Okay..attach wires on pin 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, and the 2 leads of the transistor.


10.
Take Pin 1 wire and attach it to the controller ground (top of the lead)
Take Pin 3 wire and attach it the opposite lead of the button (The lead that DOESNT have the 220ohm on it)
Take Pin 4 wire and attach it the 'positive' of the controller (Near the headset jack)
Take pin 6 wire and attach it one of the leads of the potentometer
Take pin 7 wire and attach it to ther other lead of the potentometer
Take the middle wire of the transitor and attach it to the 220 ohm resistor on the button
Take the last wire of the transistor and attach it to the 1.8k resistor on the trigger point.

*-*-*-*-*-*-MATRIX CONTROLLERS: You should be done once it wired up*-*-*-*-*-*-*



11. The next part is to wire the baby up



Take Pin 1 wire and attach it to the controller ground (Look up at picture for ground and power)
Take Pin 3 wire and attach it one of the leads of the button
Take Pin 4 wire and attach it the 'positive' of the controller (Look up at picture for ground and power)
Take pin 6 wire and attach it one of the leads of the potentometer
Take pin 7 wire and attach it to ther other lead of the potentometer
Take a wire and attach it to the other lead of the button and hook it directly to the trigger point (middle lead) of the controller.

Final Product for New CG:
http://img.photobuck...ds/IMG_0430.jpg
http://img.photobuck...ds/IMG_0431.jpg
http://img.photobuck...ds/IMG_0433.jpg


BAM. Headshot. Should be working...hopefully this is help to you...and not a fail. But good luck and please dont spam me with PM's..post questions on this topic.

Heres where i put my pot and button. If you drill right..and dont use alot of room...you can keep the rumblers.

Oh, and thanks to RDC for the helpful pictures i used and his expertise help.

http://img.photobuck...ds/IMG_0860.jpg
http://img.photobuck...ds/IMG_0855.jpg

GOOD LUCK!

#2 kiwinator

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Posted 12 November 2008 - 12:05 PM

Thanks!! I might try that, Could you post pics on where to connect the leads to? or do you just use a normal 555 timer mod method?

#3 Salincer

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Posted 13 November 2008 - 05:27 AM

@the guy above
...do you play GoW2? I swear i played with you earlier today...and its pretty straitght forward but the next time i open a controller i take a pic where to conect the wires. My GT is S4LINC3R...i think we played warzone?? I got invited to a party with you in i think..

EDIT: Forgot to answer your question, I do use the method involving the breadboard i think csparsall made...and i just take the breadboard out and there it is.

Edited by Salincer, 13 November 2008 - 05:28 AM.


#4 sanandreas8732

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Posted 23 November 2008 - 03:39 PM

cool, thanks !

#5 sanandreas8732

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 08:22 AM

thanks man I remember I bs'd with you about freeform before, but I kinda needed a step by step thanks for the tut!!

here's what I got

IPB Image
they call it the dime sized free from but all i had was a quarter dry.gif ha so that's what I used
IPB Image
i used a 2.2pf electrolyte cap instead of the 1 pf
I used 2 100 ohm resistors instead of a 220
I used a 1.5k instead of a 1.8

the cap I used is kinda bulky but oh well it's small enough

I made this one for waw

they made a picaxe that doesn't get capped by the patch

I am working on hooking a monostable one shot to a astable 555 to get 3rnd burst

I'll post when I get it

thanks again man
-sanandreas8732


QUOTE(kiwinator @ Nov 12 2008, 06:41 AM) View Post

Thanks!! I might try that, Could you post pics on where to connect the leads to? or do you just use a normal 555 timer mod method?


it's the same as this tut here

http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=643928

if you need the breadboard tongue.gif

#6 sanandreas8732

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 06:10 PM

much easier to cram in there, you could def keep rumblers if ya wanted
IPB Image

#7 Salincer

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Posted 26 November 2008 - 01:19 AM

QUOTE(sanandreas8732 @ Nov 25 2008, 02:58 AM) View Post

thanks man I remember I bs'd with you about freeform before, but I kinda needed a step by step thanks for the tut!!

i used a 2.2pf electrolyte cap instead of the 1 pf
I used 2 100 ohm resistors instead of a 220
I used a 1.5k instead of a 1.8

the cap I used is kinda bulky but oh well it's small enough

I made this one for waw
it's the same as this tut here

Hah, alot of people has bugged me about it. And i had the pictures, so i was like...what the heck might as well. So this one works for CoD5?? I just rented it today tongue.gif.

#8 tr4il

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Posted 26 November 2008 - 01:31 AM

thanks a lot for the tut..i would have been able to save the right rumble as well but currently dont have a drill or dremel at school so i carved it out..everything works fine..couldnt find a 1.8 so i series'd up a 1.5 and a 220..only thing is..i apparently dont know how to use the potentiometer b/c i tried to slightly turn it to adjust it and the whole white part popped off...lol..what should i do for next time when i replace this potentiometer?? thanks.
IPB Image IPB Image

Edited by tr4il, 26 November 2008 - 01:33 AM.


#9 Salincer

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Posted 26 November 2008 - 03:30 AM

QUOTE(tr4il @ Nov 25 2008, 08:07 PM) View Post

thanks a lot for the tut..i would have been able to save the right rumble as well but currently dont have a drill or dremel at school so i carved it out..everything works fine..couldnt find a 1.8 so i series'd up a 1.5 and a 220..only thing is..i apparently dont know how to use the potentiometer b/c i tried to slightly turn it to adjust it and the whole white part popped off...lol..what should i do for next time when i replace this potentiometer?? thanks.
IPB Image IPB Image

Be gentle. use a very tiny screwdriver.

Update: RROD after playing 2 rounds of CoD5 deathmatch. GG. Wonder if i will recieve a halo 3 edition one because mine is..

#10 sanandreas8732

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Posted 26 November 2008 - 03:51 AM

QUOTE(Salincer @ Nov 25 2008, 07:55 PM) View Post

Hah, alot of people has bugged me about it. And i had the pictures, so i was like...what the heck might as well. So this one works for CoD5?? I just rented it today tongue.gif.

well kinda muhaha.gif not to my satisfaction though I call it the "geriatric" rapid fire mod
1/(.693 x C x (R1+2R2)) C=in farads R= in ohms
I seen you used the same values as phlspr420's
so
I will use those values first to give you an idea of the values I switched ( i dunno if you are familiar with the formula, or others that may read this )
so c=1 microfarad which = .000001 F
R1= 10k ohm which = 10,000
R2=100k(pot) which=100,000

so doing the math you get the 6.8 or whatever

ok I changed

c=2.2 so that's .0000022 F
R1=10k
R2=100k pot

works out to be something like 3.1 shots a second MAX mad.gif
and you still have to come off the pot a bit to not get capped by treyarchs homo patch

so after tuning it doesn't "get capped" but it's rather lame, I want the old speed back...
to compare the original to the slowed down version
(shots fired)

old 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
new 1 1 1 1

feels like the gun has ED....

anyway I guess they figured out how to beat it with the PICAXE so I am starting to learn about that
AM put out a tut I think I am going to give a whack.

I am not giving up without a fight LOL I will make a 555 rapid fire in waw damnit

plans for that are as follows

monostable one shot555 @.5Hz connected to astable 555 @7Hz

monostable 555 RC values
R1=1k C=500pf equation( 1.1 x R x C)
connected to
astable 555 RC values
C=1pf
R1=10k
R2=100k equation (1/(.693 x C x (R1+2R2))

this should give rapid fire that won't be detected BUT wont be SMOOTH...

I haven't found a fix for this waw patch I have seen the following rumors

-somehow UN update your system (i think bs)
-use picaxe chip (somehow they code it not to throw up the flag) (maybe?)
-shoot 2 rnds at the beggining of each magazine (i think lame even if it does work)
-Hex edit your system ( i think BS on that one)

anyway for you picaxe guys if you could shed some light on this for me I'd appreciate it

thanks for throwin this tut up again salincer!

*played WAW 1st game 40.... SVT (useless) nambu (more useless)
got mad
*played cod4 1st game got 386... m40 M9

ps why the cap in single player? the whole cap thing is stupid all together I tried playing w/o any mods
and still got capped out. I cant shoot THAT fast ???wtf uhh.gif

Thanks guys
















#11 tr4il

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Posted 26 November 2008 - 03:58 AM

QUOTE(Salincer @ Nov 26 2008, 04:06 AM) View Post

Be gentle. use a very tiny screwdriver.

Update: RROD after playing 2 rounds of CoD5 deathmatch. GG. Wonder if i will recieve a halo 3 edition one because mine is..

when i turn it how far are we talking about? does left or right really create a significant difference? i'm not trying to mess up another one since it seemed pretty fragile..thanks.

#12 Salincer

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Posted 26 November 2008 - 04:18 AM

QUOTE(tr4il @ Nov 25 2008, 10:34 PM) View Post

when i turn it how far are we talking about? does left or right really create a significant difference? i'm not trying to mess up another one since it seemed pretty fragile..thanks.

they are cheaply made.. on spme they are a stopping point...but just try it out in game and barley adjust it..and keep going untill its perfect..if it gets slower by turning it to the left...try going right..go right..and find the fastest speed..then keep going untill it gets alot slower or doubleshoots.

#13 sanandreas8732

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Posted 26 November 2008 - 04:25 AM

QUOTE(tr4il @ Nov 25 2008, 10:34 PM) View Post

when i turn it how far are we talking about? does left or right really create a significant difference? i'm not trying to mess up another one since it seemed pretty fragile..thanks.

the sweet spot is somewhere in the middle left makes it go faster and right makes it go slower
(I hooked a micro siren inline with the PB so I could hear)
keep in mind that the chip is limited by the software (game)
just be very gentle with the thing
I have broke my fair share of them
just keep at it and youll get it
good luck

#14 Salincer

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Posted 26 November 2008 - 04:35 AM

QUOTE(sanandreas8732 @ Nov 25 2008, 11:01 PM) View Post

the sweet spot is somewhere in the middle left makes it go faster and right makes it go slower
(I hooked a micro siren inline with the PB so I could hear)
keep in mind that the chip is limited by the software (game)
just be very gentle with the thing
I have broke my fair share of them
just keep at it and youll get it
good luck

Yea, agreed...have a load of them. Sucks telling friends "BE GENTLE!!".
But yea..let me know how you bypass it...had a guy wanting to buy one for WaW..and told him it wasnt going to work. But Hopefully by the time you get it set..i will have my 360 from fricken M$.

Hopefully this will make the tutorial fourm sticky at the top??

#15 sanandreas8732

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Posted 26 November 2008 - 04:55 AM

QUOTE(Salincer @ Nov 25 2008, 11:11 PM) View Post

Yea, agreed...have a load of them. Sucks telling friends "BE GENTLE!!".
But yea..let me know how you bypass it...had a guy wanting to buy one for WaW..and told him it wasnt going to work. But Hopefully by the time you get it set..i will have my 360 from fricken M$.

Hopefully this will make the tutorial fourm sticky at the top??


lol " now be gentle... don't break it" I didnt even realize it sounded that BAD haha oh well
in all seriousness them damn things break too easy!
oh yea man I will for sure let you know if I get it figured out (and perhaps my do my first tut)
I dont think anyone has done it with a 555 or 556 setup yet
I went over it a little bit with RDC (thanks) but I am not sure how to go about it
the concept seems as though it would work
for a 3-4 rnd burst w/breaks meaning when the pb is depressed
the monostable 555 allows the astable 555 to fire FAST AS POSSIBLE for 3-5 tenths of a second
and then it doesnt fire again until you
depress the trigger
and repress it again

creating the "irregularity"

this is assuming that the patch detects consistancy

it may detect shots per second as well tho?

I dont know

anyway the circuit I have in mind would have to have the signal from the monostable
close the other circuit for x amount of time


I am only familiar with the astable [noob] jester.gif
but heres a stab at it
(using phlsphrs tut)
on a monostable one shot the wire that normally goes to the trigger point
would have to go to the astable 555's power supply ( rest of connections are same with astable)
so that the astable would be deprived of power until the monostable sent the signal

so essentially your putting the monostable inline with the astables power supply

Ima sleep on it I will post again 2morrow

cool.gif

in the mean time anybody have feedback?
thanks








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