Wireless Gaming Receiver
Posted 04 December 2008 - 10:41 AM
It's really not too difficult to get apart, I don't have any pics of the process but all ya need is an Xacto knife and maybe a small flat head screwdriver. If you're pretty careful ya can push the blade into the groove where the halves meet, there's a good bit of room in there but only a few MM is all it needs to go in, and then go down one side of it, then pry it apart with little damage if done carefully.
This one was dead, no light on it at all when plugged into any USB port. The cause was F1 was blown, top right corner of the Bottom pic. It's marked with a 'D' and it's a 1/4A (0.25A) 434 series SMT fuse, same thing that's in the Wireless Headsets. Putting a jumper in place is all that really needs to be done if it's open to get that sorted, though if it's still dead after that yer on yer own, until I get one in that shape as well.
The LED (LD1) is the same type that are used in the controllers, 0603 SMT, and can be changed in the same manner.
Thanks to XM202RonFez for sending the Receiver to be used.
Posted 31 August 2011 - 07:39 AM
I want to internalize some stuff in my PC case, has enough room, and I don't like the idea of having the receiver and mice transmiter laying around anywhere, also, bluetooth must be internalized, having like 20 USB yet they find an excuse to remove it (they like that USB port so much!)
Well, that wont be so much trouble, but I'd like to know how to remove and reinstall the sync button and the green led, I don't know so much about electronics, but have a steady hand and decent solder skills.
I don't wanna guess which one is the positive side of the SMT, and don't know what kind of replacement for installing it easily to the PC case, also, don't wanna guess which legs to solder the replacement sync button.
I will appreciate any info and help into this matter.
Posted 31 August 2011 - 05:47 PM
USB TP spots. If you want to make your own header cable.
TP8 - 5v
TP13 - D-
TP14 - D+
TP9 - GND
For the LED. After removing the old one, just 'drown' it in solder and 'wipe' it off the board with your soldering iron, use a 3mm for your new one as it will be the easiest to mount somewhere in the PC case, just a hole and them maybe some hot glue to hold it in place. It's preferable to use a Green or Red one as the new LED so you don't have to mess with anything to get it lit up. A Blue or White one may work, but if it doesn't then a voltage mod would need to be done.
TP6 - LED-
TP18 - LED+
The switch you should just leave in place as it's more trouble to remove than it's worth, plus you'll need something different to mount in the PC case anyway. It's just a N.O. (Normally Open) type push button switch that you can find tons of different types for all over the place. The Reset and Power buttons on the PC are some examples. Getting some N.O. Tact switch would be best as it will be the same deal mounting it as your new LED, just a hole and some hot glue. For those connections you'll need to solder to the 2 top connections of the original switch, going by the first pic the ones on either side of where it says SW1. It will not matter if both switches are installed together as they are both going to be the N.O. type, it's just whichever one gets pushed will be doing the work.
Also, try and keep the Circuit Board out of the metal cage of the PC case, preferably mounted somewhere where there is nothing but plastic covering it, like right up front somewhere, behind a bay cover for example, because the thing needs to get the RF signals to/from the controller, and sticking it entirely in a grounded metal cage is going to weaken that.
Posted 01 September 2011 - 05:35 PM
I was thinking in using the very same screw holes in the receiver to mount it (carefully) somewhere in the plastic of the case, to the front, or a 5 1/4 drive bay, problem is, I want to add one of these to my case 3.5" 4-bay SATA 6.0Gb/s Mobile Rack, having only 4 drive bays and having 1 used, that's an issue.
I'll take my time, but definitely going to do it.
Thank you very much.
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