Dvd Drive Question
Posted 22 February 2009 - 10:57 PM
Posted 22 February 2009 - 11:50 PM
Posted 22 February 2009 - 11:56 PM
but the problem is im doing a case mod and have no room for the board
Posted 23 February 2009 - 01:17 AM
Posted 23 February 2009 - 02:27 AM
but i find the guides for the sharp very confusing
and when i did the soldering of the points
and checked it to make sure that i did it according to the guide
my xbox would turn on the off 3 times
so i desoldered it and all is well
the xbox is a V1.o or 1.1
tsop is a sharp
Posted 23 February 2009 - 03:51 AM
After lots of reading it seems that the one that makes most sense is where you solder the two conventional flashing points, then solder two additional wires (each about 6" long), one to each of the two Sharp TSOP points (the two points at the end of the red line in the second picture in this link.) You boot the Xbox normally, load your Raincoat flashing application, then short the two ends of the wires together, then flash the TSOP. Once it's finished flashing you remove the short, and the Xbox will reboot normally.
Posted 23 February 2009 - 04:46 AM
I will definatly try this info
One last question before i do you mentioned raincoat i know this is some sort of exploit
but does it matter if i use it because the box im doing this on is softmodded with 007 already
Posted 23 February 2009 - 04:52 AM
Posted 23 February 2009 - 05:03 AM
Raincoat is a flashing utility, and there are versions that can be loaded via an exploit. If your Xbox is already softmodded you can just copy the gamesave to your Xbox and run the xbe in the gamesave directly. Have a look here.
Alternatively you could use Resctoox, which also contains a Raincoat flasher, or Eurasia (eurasia_pro_generic_flash_disc_1_3.zip). Whichever Raincoat you use, make sure you use a 1MB BIOS file, because not all versions of Raincoat will autofill the chip.
Posted 23 February 2009 - 01:47 PM
I did like you said i soldered the wires on to the 2 points then booted
But id did the same thing as before it booted over and over
Posted 23 February 2009 - 02:04 PM
Posted 23 February 2009 - 07:16 PM
and i checked them and they are all good
Posted 23 February 2009 - 07:43 PM
Posted 24 February 2009 - 12:29 AM
all works good after i remove the bridges
as for pics im sorry i cant my camera is crappy and they dont show good
Posted 25 February 2009 - 12:23 AM
You solder the bridge on the bottom of the motherboard as normal. You solder the Sharp specific wire (the red line in the second picture here). For the bridge on the top of the board you need to solder a wire to each side of the bridge, but don't make the bridge - if you solder the bridge on the top of the board the Xbox will not boot. The wires need to be long enough for the free ends to be accessible after the Xbox is temporarily reassembled for flashing. Apparently it is easier to use 30 gauge wire, and solder it into the vias adjacent to the two bridge points, shown in white in the picture below. Insulate the free ends of the two wires for the time being.
You then boot, fire up your flashing application, and twist the ends of the wires together just before flashing. Once flashing is over you power the Xbox down, untwist and insulate the wires, and reboot.
Edited by Heimdall, 25 February 2009 - 12:28 AM.
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