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Swapping Mod Chip From One Xbox To Another Help..


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#1 match417

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 12:36 AM

My old xbox (v1.0) power supply blew a fuse, not sure why, so I got a v1.4 xbox from a friend, the two xbox's don't have the same power supplies so I can't swap them, I'm just going to put my mod chip from the old one into the new one, I've already taken my old mod chip out (its an xecuter 2.6) and it has printed on the chip "5v v1.6 only", so am I supposed to only use this chip on version v1.6 xbox's? I doubt this because it came off of my v1.0 xbox, and it ran on that xbox for 5 years, so I guess it will work fine on the v1.4? Am I right? Why does it say "5v v1.6 only"? Or is it by some fluke that it worked on the v1.0 for 5 years?

Do I solder the wires to the same pins on the v1.4 that they were on on the v1.0? (pictures below are v1.0)

Can someone show me a good walkthrough link to follow to flash the xbox and mod it? Just in case I get stuck? I've worked on computers and I've soldered connections, but i've never modded an xbox, I don't want to screw it up, so any help you guys can offer will be appreciated.

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Edited by match417, 09 September 2009 - 12:43 AM.


#2 match417

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 01:00 AM

also..what's this vertical board that is sticking up? It's on the v1.0 but it's not on the v1.4.

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#3 Joes2Silly

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Posted 09 September 2009 - 03:15 AM

You should be able to desolder the LPC wires on your modchip and wire them the same on the 1.4, and the vertical board is a USB daughter board that was on 1.0-1.1 xboxs but was later put directly on the motherboard.

#4 obcd

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 01:24 PM

I think the usb daughterboard was only present on the 1.0 xbox. It shouldn't be there on the 1.1 either.

The "5V 1.6 only" probably is a connection that only needs to be made on a 1.6 or 1.6b xbox version. The other mobo's have that voltage on the LPC if I remember well.

The wires connected to the LPC holes are the same. I am just unsure about the wires soldered on the bottom of the mobo. Normally you should be able to find some installation instructions for the different mobo types on the internet.

Don't understand me wrong. You need to connect the wires to the same signals. (Like the D0 wire to the D0 point of the mobo.) I am just not sure that those signals are at the same location of the mobo, as the mobo layout might have changed slightly.

regards.

Edited by obcd, 10 September 2009 - 01:26 PM.


#5 match417

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 06:37 PM

QUOTE(obcd @ Sep 10 2009, 02:24 AM) View Post

Don't understand me wrong. You need to connect the wires to the same signals. (Like the D0 wire to the D0 point of the mobo.) I am just not sure that those signals are at the same location of the mobo, as the mobo layout might have changed slightly.

regards.


that's what I'm worried about..things might be slightly different on the 1.4 than they are on the 1.0, it's mainly the 3 wires on the bottom that I'm concerned with. Somewhere I was reading, someone was saying that the wires should be soldered to the bottom directly beneath the same color wire from the group of 10 wires, but that isn't where mine was soldered on the 1.0 and since mine lasted for 5 years with the mod chip, I would prefer to do it the exact same way it was done before, so this will last just as long..hopefully.

so can anyone show me a picture of the wire layout on the bottom of the 1.4? Is it the same as the one I have above?

#6 turfster

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Posted 10 September 2009 - 11:45 PM

QUOTE(match417 @ Sep 10 2009, 01:37 PM) View Post

that's what I'm worried about..things might be slightly different on the 1.4 than they are on the 1.0, it's mainly the 3 wires on the bottom that I'm concerned with. Somewhere I was reading, someone was saying that the wires should be soldered to the bottom directly beneath the same color wire from the group of 10 wires, but that isn't where mine was soldered on the 1.0 and since mine lasted for 5 years with the mod chip, I would prefer to do it the exact same way it was done before, so this will last just as long..hopefully.

so can anyone show me a picture of the wire layout on the bottom of the 1.4? Is it the same as the one I have above?

Its the same for 1.0-1.5 versions. You can register at team-xecuter.com and go to the forums. There's everything you would need to answer all your questions. Look in the xecuter 2.6 thread.

#7 match417

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 05:00 AM

QUOTE(turfster @ Sep 10 2009, 12:45 PM) View Post

Its the same for 1.0-1.5 versions. You can register at team-xecuter.com and go to the forums. There's everything you would need to answer all your questions. Look in the xecuter 2.6 thread.


awesome! thanks!

#8 pattythefatty

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 06:21 PM

@Turfster:
There is a difference in 1.0 vs 1.4 boards for the D0 solder point. Well, there are more contact points in that D0 string, and while they both might be the third from the left, they are different if counting from the right. Of course most people would probabnly start from the shorter side, but it is better to be safe than sorry.

@match417
Turfsters advice to go direct to Team Xecuter was right on. Here is a link to the install guide, you shouldn't need to register to view it.:
http://team-xecuter....s/x3pin1015.htm
Just FYI, the 2.6, 3, 3CE use the same install document, so don't panic (well the x3CE does have a newer install doc but it is really just updated pictures and some extra info about the dip switch settings for the external switch, but I think you would be better off with the one i linked first since you don't have a 3CE, but you will see the link for 3CE install in the doc I linked anyway.
They don't cover a wire install, but your questions were about the D0 point which is included. And about the 5v, you only need that for a 1.6/1.6(B) xbox (as was previously stated). (M$ removed the 5V point and a couple of others as well in the 1.6 versions, so that is why you need the extra 5v wire and either a LPC rebuild kit or additional wires to rebuild the LPC, but you have a 1.4 so you don't have to worry about any of that.

-PTF

Edited by pattythefatty, 11 September 2009 - 06:32 PM.


#9 match417

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 06:37 PM

The v1.4 is quieter, the v1.0 used to hum. I got it working. I started emailing a guy back and forth and he scared me a little, he was telling me that my xbox may have been "locked down" to where the chip can only be used on the 1.0 board and it might not even work, but that wasn't the case. It worked fine. I followed the instructional on the team-xecuter website and it worked fine. I put the chip and hard drive in the new case, and it started right up, ran just like it used to (just quieter), I didn't even have to flash the bios. Soldered to the solder points and double checked them, works great! Thanks guys for helping out.

I have a question though, while soldering i noticed that the xecuter3 chips are the same pinout as my xecuter2.6, so what would be the advantage of upgrading to the x3 chip? Is it a plug and play thing or would I have to flash the bios?

And there is something up with the new DVD drive, it will make noise and the tray will move a hair when it makes noise, but it won't spit out like it's supposed to, I have to stick a pen in the hole in the front to open it manually, then it opens and closes fine after that until I turn it off and back on. Anyone have any ideas on that?

Edited by match417, 11 September 2009 - 06:48 PM.


#10 pattythefatty

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 08:39 PM

it could be a bad drive belt or a stripped gear. You would have to open up the drive and check the drive out, there are a couple of posts/tuts, about tearing down the dvd drive. I don't have the time to look right now, but you might try the tuts section off the x-scene homepage, or the forum search in the top right of the forums pages.
-PTF

#11 match417

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Posted 11 September 2009 - 08:57 PM

QUOTE(pattythefatty @ Sep 11 2009, 09:39 AM) View Post

it could be a bad drive belt or a stripped gear. You would have to open up the drive and check the drive out, there are a couple of posts/tuts, about tearing down the dvd drive. I don't have the time to look right now, but you might try the tuts section off the x-scene homepage, or the forum search in the top right of the forums pages.
-PTF


I know it's not the drive belt, I had that problem on my 360 and I see the belt intact still. The funny thing is it opens and closes perfectly over and over after it gets a kick start, but once it gets turned off and back on it gets hung up again until it gets another kick start.


#12 turfster

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 02:09 AM

QUOTE(match417 @ Sep 11 2009, 03:57 PM) View Post

I know it's not the drive belt, I had that problem on my 360 and I see the belt intact still. The funny thing is it opens and closes perfectly over and over after it gets a kick start, but once it gets turned off and back on it gets hung up again until it gets another kick start.

If its a samsung drive, its the belt. I have 2 extra if you need one.

First try this. Put black electrical tape over the magnet on the top tray(has to be a circle of tape just on magnet, leave middle open).

Second try this. You could also spray clear coat over the magnet(little white round thing on inside top of dvd drive, make sure you tape off everything around it first). It lessens the magnet and the tray will open. LOL, kinda hard to understand what Im saying but Im tired as hell.

Third, replace the belt with a tighter one. I have 2 like I said and will gladly send you one.

Glad you got your 1.4 working though. Yeah 1.0 do is alittle different (I knew that). But its basically the same if you count three from the right direction.

If all else fails Ill sell you another working drive.

Lastly, swap drives from the 1.0. Actually just do that and your done.....

Later,

Turfster tongue.gif

Edited by turfster, 12 September 2009 - 02:11 AM.


#13 match417

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 03:33 AM

QUOTE(turfster @ Sep 11 2009, 03:09 PM) View Post

If its a samsung drive, its the belt. I have 2 extra if you need one.

First try this. Put black electrical tape over the magnet on the top tray(has to be a circle of tape just on magnet, leave middle open).

Second try this. You could also spray clear coat over the magnet(little white round thing on inside top of dvd drive, make sure you tape off everything around it first). It lessens the magnet and the tray will open. LOL, kinda hard to understand what Im saying but Im tired as hell.

Third, replace the belt with a tighter one. I have 2 like I said and will gladly send you one.

Glad you got your 1.4 working though. Yeah 1.0 do is alittle different (I knew that). But its basically the same if you count three from the right direction.

If all else fails Ill sell you another working drive.

Lastly, swap drives from the 1.0. Actually just do that and your done.....

Later,

Turfster tongue.gif

I can deal with it as it is, if I need to open the drive I'll just stick a pin or paper clip in the manual release hole in front, and it pops open, it closes fine on it's own just by pressing the close button. If it fails completely, I'll just use the one from the v1.0, it seems to still work fine even though it's 7 years old. I don't know what's up with the samsung drives, I have problems with the one in my 360 (toshiba samsung), its confused and doesn't know if it's open or closed, but my no-name v1.0 drive still works like a champ, and its over 7 years old!

By the way pattythefatty, I shipped off your stuff today, usps priority mail 3 - 5 day, I even threw in the controller ports and daughterboard since you seem to like free parts. I don't know what I would have done with all of those extra parts, they are safe and bubble wrapped

#14 turfster

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 06:20 PM

QUOTE(match417 @ Sep 11 2009, 10:33 PM) View Post

I can deal with it as it is, if I need to open the drive I'll just stick a pin or paper clip in the manual release hole in front, and it pops open, it closes fine on it's own just by pressing the close button. If it fails completely, I'll just use the one from the v1.0, it seems to still work fine even though it's 7 years old. I don't know what's up with the samsung drives, I have problems with the one in my 360 (toshiba samsung), its confused and doesn't know if it's open or closed, but my no-name v1.0 drive still works like a champ, and its over 7 years old!

By the way pattythefatty, I shipped off your stuff today, usps priority mail 3 - 5 day, I even threw in the controller ports and daughterboard since you seem to like free parts. I don't know what I would have done with all of those extra parts, they are safe and bubble wrapped

K, that works for me if your happy with doing that. Also, for your 360 sammy drive. You can buy a new drive on ebay and switch the pcb board from problem drive to new drive or flash original key onto new drive w/ JF.



#15 match417

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Posted 14 September 2009 - 05:15 AM

QUOTE(turfster @ Sep 12 2009, 07:20 AM) View Post

K, that works for me if your happy with doing that. Also, for your 360 sammy drive. You can buy a new drive on ebay and switch the pcb board from problem drive to new drive or flash original key onto new drive w/ JF.


For the 360, my friend gave me a philips drive, I just have to give him the samsung drive back, how do I flash the 360 so that it recognizes the drive? I don 't trust the samsung ones, and I don't want to put another one in only to have to change it out again in a year or so.

Edited by match417, 14 September 2009 - 05:16 AM.





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