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Rrod In The Start But It Works


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#1 toinobcool

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 07:13 PM

Hello there! First of all I'm a newbie here in the Xbox-Scene So hello there! =)
I can't find a similar case to mine so i decided to put a new post.

My Xbox never open, god the RROD whit no video and Sound, I did the X-clamp fix since it have some pair of yearsand 15 to 20 minutes Backing and it is working, but i have a curioso thingh is that each time that i start the console the RROD appear but the console start well whit video and sound, no problem for what it seems. Even after i reset the console the RROD doesn't appear more and it seems to work. Only when it stays off some hours, it comes to the same, RROD on start UP.....

What is it happening!? IS it still something wrong whit the console !? How can i know what to do.

Thank you very much for everyone attention. smile.gif
TZ

#2 Locohead

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 10:27 PM

Seems like when your 360 is in a completely cooled-down state, a crack in the solder opens somewhere. Thus the power-on RROD. As soon as it gets a little bit heated up, the crack is temporarily closed, and remains that way as long as the system is on. I'd say as long as it is working after the first minute or 2, might as well just leave it this way and play it as long as it lasts. I also think redo-ing the X-clamp fix (loosen heatsinks to "just snug", overheat 2 minutes, cool system down a bit, retighten heatsinks) should probably do the trick, if this condition annoys you too much. Good luck!

** I just noticed that you said it was like this even just after you did the x-clamp fix. In that case, I would say that perhaps you tightened the screws too much? Stress on the board is your enemy, you want to minimize it. I fixed 2 machines so far, and I went easy on both of them. If you did the "8 bolts, 4 washers-per-bolt" fix, and you have 2 washers on the bolt below the board, I would remove the metal one. It makes the board fit in the case much better. Make sure none of the screws are tightened down too much, just firmly. As much as you can casually tighten without using any real strength. If it still acts up, do the method I mentioned in the above paragraph.

Edited by Locohead, 24 September 2009 - 10:41 PM.


#3 toinobcool

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Posted 25 September 2009 - 09:05 AM

Good point of view Locohead, it seems a good reason to do it.
It doesn't bother me this problem, not at all if it is working the console, it is ok... My only concern was if the console have still something that i can do to avoid stays in worst shape.
Do you think i should release a bit the screws? That maybe could help....
I only have a washer under the motherboard because i felt it fit better and two more betwen the motherboard and the heat-sink, i though it was the best solution.
That maybe could help....

*** If i leave the console like it is and try to make some mod to coll it down a little more when working (Maybe put the fans working constontly at 12V and put 1 o 2 more fans to increase the air circulation) will it become a bigger problem in the future, will that supose crack increase until i don't get Video or Audio again !? huh.gif

Thanks.

Edited by toinobcool, 25 September 2009 - 09:09 AM.


#4 lildimsum7

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Posted 27 September 2009 - 08:19 PM

This is the same problem I have with a console I bought from a user here and it has the 12v fan mod.

#5 Locohead

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 04:19 AM

TBH I would get the 2nd screw&washer kit like I said and start again from scratch. Take both heatsinks off, maybe leave the board rest for a bit to let it reach equilibrium, and treat it like it's an RROD system and like you are starting out doing the x-clamp fix for the first time. I'll detail all the steps again, as I do them, to avoid any confusion:

- Remove motherboard from case, flip it over and also ground yourself to avoid any static charge
- CAREFULLY pry off the X-clamps with a screwdriver -- I use a "twist + pull" method to try to minimize any board gouging. Sometimes some of the clamps are stubborn, but just switch to a different leg. Don't use force or great amount of stress, just pry/wiggle them off gently. You could also cover up the underside of the board, I'm too lazy though...
- Clean and prepare both heatsinks and chips with specialized cleaner (I use Arcticlean #1 and #2) or maybe cheapskate cleaners would work OK too...
- Apply arctic silver (or other high-quality thermal paste) as thinly as possible while still getting complete coverage over the top of the chips. I scrape it on with a credit card to make it smooth and paper thin.
- Attach the heatsinks carefully, screwing down with minimal pressure -- just enough to "snug" them down and achieve full contact, but not tight. Also, try to make the screws equal in pressure at the end of each step. The heatsink-side of each screw should have a plastic & metal washer. The underside should just have the plastic washer (this makes it fit best IMO.)
- Put the board back into the case, don't screw it down. Attach DVD drive, RF unit, power and video cables. Leave the fans UNplugged.
- Turn on the unit (no fans!) Leave it on until you get 2 red blinking lights (overheat.) Time it for 2 minutes of overheat, then power down. Leave it alone for a few minutes, until the system is still warm but the heatsinks are no longer burning hot.
- Unhook and remove the board, NOW tighten the screws down the rest of the way. Do not overtighten, just firmly -- you shouldn't use any large amount of strength, just as much as you can do without using any real force. Again make sure all the screws have equal pressure.
- Hook everything back up (including fans and shroud), but don't screw down the board into the case yet. Test for green lights. If you don't get green lights, loosen the heatsinks to "snug" and go back to the overheat step, and overheat for longer (how long is up to you... I've never had to do more than 2 minutes so I can't give too much advice on that.) If you can't get green lights with this, it will require more complicated methods (heatgun or reball) that I have no experience with yet.
- Once you have green lights, you can screw down the mobo and reattach everything. I highly recommend doing the fan-shroud mod at this point before you reassemble your case again. It's such a cheap and effective way to improve cooling.
- When you reassemble your case, you won't be using the 8 little black screws that went into the x-clamps. Treat all of the case screws similar to the heatsink screws -- make them firm but don't use any large amount of strength, and tighten them as evenly as possible.

For most systems this should last you several months at least. Both of the ones I did (mine and a friends) are still going great anyway. Whenever I get 3ROD again (IMO it is inevitable for any 360) I'll go back to the loosen-heatsink and 2-minute overheat step, and proceed from there. I own a heatgun and it is standing by if needed, but I'd rather not risk it unless necessary. Well, good luck!

#6 toinobcool

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Posted 01 October 2009 - 01:45 PM

QUOTE(Locohead @ Sep 28 2009, 05:19 AM) View Post

TBH I would get the 2nd screw&washer kit like I said and start again from scratch. Take both heatsinks off, maybe leave the board rest for a bit to let it reach equilibrium, and treat it like it's an RROD system and like you are starting out doing the x-clamp fix for the first time. I'll detail all the steps again, as I do them, to avoid any confusion:

- Remove motherboard from case, flip it over and also ground yourself to avoid any static charge
- CAREFULLY pry off the X-clamps with a screwdriver -- I use a "twist + pull" method to try to minimize any board gouging. Sometimes some of the clamps are stubborn, but just switch to a different leg. Don't use force or great amount of stress, just pry/wiggle them off gently. You could also cover up the underside of the board, I'm too lazy though...
- Clean and prepare both heatsinks and chips with specialized cleaner (I use Arcticlean #1 and #2) or maybe cheapskate cleaners would work OK too...
- Apply arctic silver (or other high-quality thermal paste) as thinly as possible while still getting complete coverage over the top of the chips. I scrape it on with a credit card to make it smooth and paper thin.
- Attach the heatsinks carefully, screwing down with minimal pressure -- just enough to "snug" them down and achieve full contact, but not tight. Also, try to make the screws equal in pressure at the end of each step. The heatsink-side of each screw should have a plastic & metal washer. The underside should just have the plastic washer (this makes it fit best IMO.)
- Put the board back into the case, don't screw it down. Attach DVD drive, RF unit, power and video cables. Leave the fans UNplugged.
- Turn on the unit (no fans!) Leave it on until you get 2 red blinking lights (overheat.) Time it for 2 minutes of overheat, then power down. Leave it alone for a few minutes, until the system is still warm but the heatsinks are no longer burning hot.
- Unhook and remove the board, NOW tighten the screws down the rest of the way. Do not overtighten, just firmly -- you shouldn't use any large amount of strength, just as much as you can do without using any real force. Again make sure all the screws have equal pressure.
- Hook everything back up (including fans and shroud), but don't screw down the board into the case yet. Test for green lights. If you don't get green lights, loosen the heatsinks to "snug" and go back to the overheat step, and overheat for longer (how long is up to you... I've never had to do more than 2 minutes so I can't give too much advice on that.) If you can't get green lights with this, it will require more complicated methods (heatgun or reball) that I have no experience with yet.
- Once you have green lights, you can screw down the mobo and reattach everything. I highly recommend doing the fan-shroud mod at this point before you reassemble your case again. It's such a cheap and effective way to improve cooling.
- When you reassemble your case, you won't be using the 8 little black screws that went into the x-clamps. Treat all of the case screws similar to the heatsink screws -- make them firm but don't use any large amount of strength, and tighten them as evenly as possible.

For most systems this should last you several months at least. Both of the ones I did (mine and a friends) are still going great anyway. Whenever I get 3ROD again (IMO it is inevitable for any 360) I'll go back to the loosen-heatsink and 2-minute overheat step, and proceed from there. I own a heatgun and it is standing by if needed, but I'd rather not risk it unless necessary. Well, good luck!


Thanks for the information. I think i will keep as it is and see how it gets. I beleive soon it will be more usual the RROD in the begining when that starts to be anoing i will do was you said...

Thank you very much for the detail steps.

Very nice. Thanks Complements. biggrin.gif




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