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Latest Version Of Wireless Controller


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#1 RDC

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Posted 11 October 2009 - 03:08 PM

Just wanted to get this out there for people to be aware of. It's a newer version of the CG version controller.

As far as the general workings of it nothing has really changed from the previous CG version with the right off exception of the D-pad contacts, which isn't going to solve the sloppy issues with it at all. The Triggers work the same as the CG, they go Hi to fire

As with the previous controllers I'll get around to tracing this one out sooner or later and digging more into it also.

IPB Image


TOP
IPB Image


BOTTOM
IPB Image

TP1 - N/A
TP2 - Ground
TP3 - B+ (AA Pack)
TP4 - Ground

TP7 - Ground
TP8 - Analog Voltage, 1.5v (Switched)
TP9 - DR
TP10 - Light Rumble
TP11 - Heavy Rumble
TP16 - N/A
TP17 - Ground
TP21 - USB D- (PnC Cable)
TP22 - Ground
TP23 - USB D+ (PnC Cable)
TP400 - Ground
TP407 - Ground

Edited by RDC, 03 February 2013 - 05:41 AM.


#2 phenoptix

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Posted 11 October 2009 - 04:31 PM

I assume as it's very similar the CG the LED pads will still have the same voltage. Cheers for the headsup

#3 saint24

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Posted 11 October 2009 - 05:24 PM

have u a pic of the front?

and would this affect a rapid fire or led instaal (eg the guide light)

#4 Squeck

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Posted 11 October 2009 - 09:27 PM

I received a replacement controller from Microsoft 4 days ago. How can i see if it's a new one? I'd like to mod it.

#5 beardawg252002

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Posted 12 October 2009 - 01:09 AM

QUOTE(saint24 @ Oct 11 2009, 10:24 AM)  

have u a pic of the front?

and would this affect a rapid fire or led instaal (eg the guide light)


yes, would love to see a pic of the front to see what you mean about the d-pad changes.

#6 RDC

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Posted 12 October 2009 - 07:11 AM

So far this controller is every bit the same as the CG. For 99.99% of you guys, just treat it as a CG and you'll be fine, it's the .01% of us that do things other than R/F and LED installs that are interested in the more subtle changes and new board layout, and it'll be awhile before I get around to tracing them all out and then stripped down, as it's honestly a bit more work than most would imagine.

Here is a quick shot of the newer D-pad contact layout, but it's not going to make the thing work any better as the shell hasn't been modified in any way at all.

IPB Image

Edited by RDC, 14 October 2009 - 10:45 PM.


#7 saint24

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Posted 12 October 2009 - 08:38 AM

if anything them contacts are worse cos theres about 50% less contact area

i put a flat piece of plastic on mine so it presses evenly u would be suprised how much better it is

#8 Crazy Germans

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Posted 12 October 2009 - 01:00 PM

QUOTE(saint24 @ Oct 12 2009, 02:38 AM)  

if anything them contacts are worse cos theres about 50% less contact area

i put a flat piece of plastic on mine so it presses evenly u would be suprised how much better it is

lol no, RDC wouldn't be surprised....

#9 beardawg252002

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Posted 12 October 2009 - 07:42 PM

i dont know, based of what RDC had in his quick d-pad fix thread, i think it would help reduce mis-fires at least. the way the new carbon is layed out, it seems as though it would be harder for a "up" d-pad press to register as a "left" or "right" press. the new carbon is at least layed out better. not saying it would be a sweet d-pad now, just saying that its a lot closer to the half-moon/perpendicular layout of the S-controller. and, since they are perpendicular, like the S-controller, i just think it would reduce mis-fires. wouldnt help in the diagnonal department though.

#10 beardawg252002

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Posted 12 October 2009 - 07:57 PM

here, to illustrate what i mean, i edited the photo. in this edit, i am trying to show how an "up" press on the d-pad with a slight lean to the "right", would not yield an actual "right" signal. again, not saying its the best or anything, just saying it should be better than the old carbon layout.

new d-pad photo by RDC - edited

Edited by beardawg252002, 12 October 2009 - 08:00 PM.


#11 phenoptix

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Posted 12 October 2009 - 10:45 PM

more likely cheaper to produce rather than improved!

#12 Protolisk

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Posted 13 October 2009 - 08:50 AM

When I first saw this I just thought it was a new version of the D-Pad. Then I thought RDC.

Hopefully he can tell us what the differences are. smile.gif

#13 RDC

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Posted 17 October 2009 - 06:16 PM

Just a little update, here are a few pics of the boards (again) and what they look like thru the battery compartment, so you can easily tell which ya have before cracking it open.

IPB Image

IPB Image

IPB Image

Again, the CG2 isn't that much different than the CG, the buttons are still in a Common Ground setup and the Triggers still go High (voltage) to fire.


#14 odingalt

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Posted 17 October 2009 - 10:16 PM

I had been using the point near the headset jack for power (the '3.0 volt regulator'). As far as I can tell, there is either no longer a voltage regulator, or it's moved somewhere.

Previously I believe there was a 3.0? volt regulator on pin 97 of the 100-pin Microsoft TQFP. If you compare that area of the CG1 PCB to the CG2 PCB it's very different.

I am thinking I need to write a sleep function into my PIC18's, so the PIC18 doesn't eat up batteries after the 20 minutes or so when the controller is supposed to shut itself off. (Also so my PIC18 doesn't turn on the LED's when the controller itself is off)

Because previously when the controller was powered off, so was this voltage regulator, and thusly so was my PIC18 chip. Now, when the controller powers off, my PIC18 is still chugging away :-)

#15 wordene

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 10:18 AM

o00

Edited by wordene, 28 October 2009 - 10:21 AM.





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