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Latest Version Of Wireless Controller


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#16 hithere

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 10:26 AM

Does anyone know where to get power without draining your batteries. I can confirm odingalt's last post about the voltage regulator. Any ideas?? uhh.gif

#17 NineLime

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Posted 24 December 2009 - 03:12 AM

Hey RDC I see your picture shows J8 near the battery contact (-) and mine says P10 so I thought it was a CG, but at second glance, it's something different, its like a CG with CG2 dpad contacts.

Check this out, I took these pics after removing LEDs but still this would this be a CG 1.5. I'll see if the power turns on and off from the headset in a few.

IPB Image
IPB Image

#18 RDC

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Posted 24 December 2009 - 06:34 AM

I wouldn't call that a 1.5 as nothing major has changed from the CG version. The D-pad contacts are like the CG2, but mechanically and electrically it's the same as the CG version controller. All of the components, Vias and such are still in the same places, so nothing is really different between it and the older CG. Might call it a CG Rev1 or something, but I wouldn't spend the time tracing that entire controller out (again) as it's identical to the CG except for the D-pad contacts. Nice find though, and I'll update the CG thread when I run across one of them.


#19 magnus__hydra

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Posted 24 December 2009 - 09:45 AM

The X, B, A, and Y are easyer to get to and wire up to use the 555timer mod for all rapid fire buttons. A buddy of mine sent me this controller that he got with his CODMW2 xbox. I popped her open and came straight here lol. Thank for the info RCD! I don't plan on doing the L and R thumb buttons but the look like there in the same spot.

Also Thank you Odingalt for the info on the 3.0 volt regulator. I will have to find an alternate spot as well.

I like how the did the Triggers traces if one was to mess it up some how its an easier fix happy.gif I see that LED D2 D3 and D4 have a longer trace. Cathode and Anode are the same I am it seems. Dose the VCC on the front of the board stop drawing power once the controller is turn off.

#20 NineLime

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Posted 06 January 2010 - 09:33 AM

QUOTE(RDC @ Dec 24 2009, 12:34 AM) View Post

I wouldn't call that a 1.5 as nothing major has changed from the CG version. The D-pad contacts are like the CG2, but mechanically and electrically it's the same as the CG version controller. All of the components, Vias and such are still in the same places, so nothing is really different between it and the older CG. Might call it a CG Rev1 or something, but I wouldn't spend the time tracing that entire controller out (again) as it's identical to the CG except for the D-pad contacts. Nice find though, and I'll update the CG thread when I run across one of them.


Thanks, it's a nice find I know it's like finding a new kind of pokemon species...in their world of course. This board was in an 09 jasper arcade, but it's as if they really think the new dpad contacts are better... figures. They would make a lot of money if they had different layouts of controllers instead of just the controller boards being different.

#21 jaredb03

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Posted 16 February 2010 - 10:07 PM

I was wondering if anyone had figured out the power yet? i am draining batteries like you wouldn't believe on my CG2 with a stealth kit installed.

#22 RDC

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Posted 17 February 2010 - 12:02 AM

Make your own with an OC if you have to have it.

http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=703639


#23 NineLime

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Posted 24 March 2010 - 03:01 AM

QUOTE(phenoptix @ Oct 12 2009, 05:45 PM) View Post

more likely cheaper to produce rather than improved!


Yeah I got a CG2 in the mail today from amazon, everything about it feels lower quality.

The thumbstick grips are terrible on the new CG2 generation ones, or at least on the one I bought. The left stick was acceptable but the right stick felt like a worn out one when it came brand new, that's ridiculous. To make things worse, the rubber formula must have changed because it feels more slippery then grippy, as if it has more plastic in the mix then rubber.

This board is better for adding buttons then the CG that's for sure, at least you don't have to sneak wires under the button mat or cut away from the rubber of the mat like I had to do on the CG. Maybe there was a way around that but either way this one's easier besides the need to make a switched power supply for LEDs and stuff.

#24 krazzzzy kay

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Posted 18 July 2010 - 02:48 AM

Hi

I'm looking to add extra Y and B buttons to the under side of my CG2 wireless controller.

I'm a noob at this and would be grateful for any help

I could not find any diagrams or threads just for adding buttons to the CG2, but going of the matrix extra button thread and the CG thread
I have pointed to the points on the board I think I need to solder a wire to and then to the button and the tp2 or tp22 for the ground.
IPB Image

If I'm completely wrong please educate me uhh.gif

Edited by krazzzzy kay, 18 July 2010 - 03:37 AM.


#25 light-of-jesus

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Posted 18 July 2010 - 05:28 AM

Yes that is correct. You need to solder one lead of the button to one of the B or Y points and then the other lead of the button to ground.

Those points for Y and B are via points so you will need to scrape off the green protective coating to get down to the copper. You will need to be very careful doing that so you don't cut the trace.

Good Luck

#26 krazzzzy kay

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Posted 18 July 2010 - 06:48 PM

Thanks for your reply light-of-jesus
I have opted to go with the 2 vias beside each button,
IPB Image


I have scraped the vias down to the copper

just to clarify when you say one lead of the button I'm assuming you mean one side ? e.g. the 2 right leads of the button go to the B via and the 2 left leads go to the tp22 ground?

and then for the other button I will have the 2 right leads going to the Y via and the 2 left leads to the tp2 ground?

I also ordered this wire online

Is this suitable for the job?

Edited by krazzzzy kay, 18 July 2010 - 06:55 PM.


#27 phenoptix

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Posted 19 July 2010 - 01:20 PM

The wire should be spot on for the job, 1.10 for shipping to the UK though?! blink.gif

#28 light-of-jesus

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Posted 19 July 2010 - 02:46 PM

QUOTE(krazzzzy kay @ Jul 18 2010, 06:48 PM) View Post

Thanks for your reply light-of-jesus
I have opted to go with the 2 vias beside each button,
IPB Image
I have scraped the vias down to the copper

just to clarify when you say one lead of the button I'm assuming you mean one side ? e.g. the 2 right leads of the button go to the B via and the 2 left leads go to the tp22 ground?

and then for the other button I will have the 2 right leads going to the Y via and the 2 left leads to the tp2 ground?

I also ordered this wire online

Is this suitable for the job?


Ok. Before soldering to the vias it will help to tin them.

It sounds like you are using 4 pin buttons. You will want to solder one pin to B or Y and the other pin on that same side to ground. Same thing for the other button as well. You can cut off the other side of pins as you only need two pins per button.

As for the wire, that wire will work just fine.

Edited by light-of-jesus, 19 July 2010 - 02:47 PM.


#29 midgetgrimm

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 12:20 AM

So im looking at the diagram shots, and could you specify which color represents what..

#30 krazzzzy kay

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 09:52 AM

Just finished this mod, left on the back burner for a while.
I just successfully finished my first jtag and decided to do the controller mod to top it of.

I had a small bit of trouble tining the vias, once I had enough copper showing it was a breeze.

just like to thank light-of-jesus for his input,

Regards,

krazzzzy kay




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