Latest Version Of Wireless Controller
Posted 22 March 2011 - 04:21 AM
Could you use the vias for X,B,A,Y underneath?
Posted 22 March 2011 - 04:45 AM
Posted 11 May 2011 - 10:10 PM
just came across my first cg2 board. was wondering if any one has come up with a better power source
I'm building a 555 RF. I seen the OptoCoupler post, but less is more...
Posted 12 May 2011 - 03:15 PM
The CG2 has no suitable switched power source for a 555, PIC, LEDs etc., so less is less in this case. Using the OC to make one is the best option available on this, or any version of, controller so you end up with a good switched power source.
Posted 12 May 2011 - 04:23 PM
work well with a 555? And is it worth the time and effort learning how to build one?
Thank you for all your hard work by the way with all your pics and trace work have helped me out a lot in the last 3 years!
Posted 12 May 2011 - 04:36 PM
A PIC and OC would still take up less room than a 555, unless you built it with mostly SMT components.
Making up a DC-DC converter would only be useful if you needed a regulated 3.3v or more. The OC method is the cheapest and easiest way to get you a switched voltage source for powering most things.
Some PIC codes will let you change speeds, just depends on how it was coded, or if you get into the coding side of it you can make it work however you want, more than a few threads on them in the Pinned Topics.
Posted 12 May 2011 - 04:41 PM
RDC YOUR THE SHIT!!!
Posted 21 May 2011 - 04:20 PM
Posted 21 May 2011 - 07:01 PM
GND is Ground. TP2 or TP22
K is the switched source to turn on/off the LEDs with the controller. That spot is the Analog Voltage line, TP8, or any of the corresponding leads on the POTs of the Triggers.
Posted 01 August 2011 - 04:34 PM
I need a little help here. i cant seem to find the contacts for RB and LB on the diagram. i am noob and would really appreciate your help.
Also i would like to power my controler using external battery pack(because my old pack shatered ) i have two wires coming out of the battery pack(2xAA) black and red, where would i need to solder that to the board??
Thanks for any help.
Posted 02 August 2011 - 12:06 AM
LB is easy enough to get to right at the solder joint at the LB switch, it sticks out from under the LT assembly and you can solder to it there. RB though, you'll have to either solder to the Via, or desolder the RT assembly so you can solder the wire on there and then cut a little groove in the bottom of the RT assembly so it doesn't pinch the wire.
If you want to wire up an external AA pack, then wire it to the spots that the original AA pack used. J8-1 is + (Red) and J8-2 is - (Black), they are the spots that have the spring connectors on them for the original AA pack. You'd be better off picking up a new AA pack for a few bucks, or a PnC kit for the controller instead fo dealing with that mess, but it'll work.
Posted 05 August 2011 - 05:41 PM
The reason why i need the AA pack is because i decided to turn the controller into arcade stick (it was after the original pack broke) but it all works fine now.
However i still got one question, i dont plan on using LT and RT buttons at all and from other sources i know i need to disable them somehow, the problem is i dont know where to solder the resistors and how to make them not act up during the game.
Posted 05 August 2011 - 07:38 PM
If you need the extra room or need to remove them, then they need to be desoldered from the board and a 10k Resistor put in place of each one so it's kept in the 'off' position. How to do that can be found here - http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=581887 which is for the Wireless Matrix version controller, but for the Triggers it's the same deal for any version controller.
Posted 10 October 2011 - 02:02 AM
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users