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Solderless Cb Checking/nand Reading And Writing


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#1 buttface96

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Posted 08 February 2010 - 11:47 PM

At first I had this idea to make a pogo pin style reader (after having an xecuter 2.3b lite plus chip way back in the day) to be able to sit on the points that you would solder the lpt/usb spi wires to to read and write your nand.

Looked up on ebay for people selling pogo pin headers, and found one that was more than willing to design one that I wanted (2 pieces of 2x4 spear pin headers)

J1D2 and J2B1 lpc holes are actually too close to each other on the boards, so i did have to bend my spears a little bit.


If you have a usb spi, then this might help you save time checking CB values on newer consoles, or even reading/writing your nand. Ive only used this for checking CB values on newer consoles to verify if they are or are not exploitable. Even if you use lpt, this can help save time checking the CB value, but I would highly recommend not trying to read and write your entire nand solderlessly (well, this way) unless you are some kind of crazy surgeon that has patience and very steady hands. Even with a usb spi, it is very risky to read and write your entire nand with a solderless device like this. One twitch in your hands, one sudden movement, and you'll need to redo it.

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So you basically just spear the first 2x4 pogo pin header in the correct J1D2 spots, and the secondary 2x4 pin header in the right J2B1 spots. For me this required all hands, so I found a free autokey program, that would give me x amount of time before it automatically hit enter, so you would go into nandpro, type in the command, and leave it there, set the time on the program, hit start, then hold down the pin headers and wait for the timer to hit enter for you and dump the first few blocks for the CB. Its takes some adjusting to get used to, but after a while it grows on you.


If you have an idea to add to this or want to make one feel free. Also using the rj-45 cable and coupler idea was not mine, thats been around here for a while. I'll post up the info for the guy who has these later after class if anyone is interested.

#2 caseyhalone

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 01:24 AM

QUOTE(buttface96 @ Feb 8 2010, 02:47 PM) View Post

If you have an idea to add to this or want to make one feel free. Also using the rj-45 cable and coupler idea was not mine, thats been around here for a while. I'll post up the info for the guy who has these later after class if anyone is interested.



yeah, get some plexi glass so you can see what is going on, some 5 min epoxy and drill the holes out to match your motheboard in lets say 4 holes. aprox 6in square just by eyeballing it. epoxy your little pin headers on there and bam, screw it down! i wouldnt want to hold that thing for a half hour. each time.... ive got much better things to do around the house!

#3 buttface96

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 01:34 AM

QUOTE(caseyhalone @ Feb 8 2010, 04:24 PM) View Post

yeah, get some plexi glass so you can see what is going on, some 5 min epoxy and drill the holes out to match your motheboard in lets say 4 holes. aprox 6in square just by eyeballing it. epoxy your little pin headers on there and bam, screw it down! i wouldnt want to hold that thing for a half hour. each time.... ive got much better things to do around the house!



ahhhh i like that idea! if the plexiglasses have the right width and length cut, it could fit in snuggly, and if its thick enough, holes could be drilled where the spears go directly through and theheader could sit on top. ill have to stop by home depot or something and check it out. thanks for your suggestions!

#4 caseyhalone

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 02:12 AM

QUOTE(buttface96 @ Feb 8 2010, 04:34 PM) View Post

ahhhh i like that idea! if the plexiglasses have the right width and length cut, it could fit in snuggly, and if its thick enough, holes could be drilled where the spears go directly through and theheader could sit on top. ill have to stop by home depot or something and check it out. thanks for your suggestions!


yeah, just measure it out so it overlaps those 4 holes, and homedepot and lowes will cut to your specs.

usually they have a scrap bin near the cutter you can get stuff free or cheap. i would get something thick that wont flex on ya.


#5 ian_hard

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 02:32 AM

i was thinking about doing the same thing but have i was goin to attach it to a piece of metal with rubber clued to the bottom that would screw in to the holes around the chip with the xbox logo on it

#6 Haruno

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 03:54 AM

This is genius! albeit unstable.

#7 yaazz

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 04:08 AM

thought about doing this but seemed like more trouble then its worth. just solder it on and then u dont have to worry about it and can leave it alone.
Yer gonna have to solder the jtag wires anyways so it doesn't really save u much time.

either way, nice work!


#8 Hier0phant

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 12:04 PM

if you get headers with a 2mm pitch (instead of the usual 2.5mm) then theres no need to bend the pins.

i recently used some on my jasper, soldered the headers to the motherboard and used sockets on my LPT cable ends, so i can confirm they fit nicely.

its a nice idea though to be able to check the CB without altering the motherboard wink.gif

#9 JBoxMods

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Posted 15 January 2011 - 12:07 AM

QUOTE(buttface96 @ Feb 8 2010, 03:47 PM) View Post

Looked up on ebay for people selling pogo pin headers, and found one that was more than willing to design one that I wanted (2 pieces of 2x4 spear pin headers)


Who was it you found on fleabay? I'm doing some looking and will try to mfg. a single/no handed solution so I can check cb of rrod systems and not have to hassle with all the soldering when going through dozens of systems (man, you had a GREAT idea!)

Once I get something finalized I'll put up pictures and (perhaps) full specs/dims/materials/etc so theycan be easily made by everyone else. The idea of using the 3 easily accessible holes around the SB is perfect, get a "clicking" pin/plug that fits into the hols and locks/unlocks with a push, keeping the pogo pins in contact with the vias, and a single pin header on top for quick connect/disconnect of your reader of choice - perfect!

#10 Kamse

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Posted 28 December 2011 - 10:12 AM

Anyone got news one how to do it with a pcb like this ?

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#11 Zer04evr

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 12:14 AM

Solderless Jasper/Falcon/Zephyr Jtag Adapter

Solderless Xenon Jtag Adapter

Heres the Link for both of them

Edited by Zer04evr, 04 January 2012 - 12:19 AM.


#12 bamarquez226

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 12:28 AM

QUOTE(Zer04evr @ Jan 3 2012, 03:14 PM) View Post


And in British pounds. I don't even want to convert it to US dollars to find out.

#13 Zer04evr

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 12:30 AM

Conversion

Bout 29.60

Edited by Zer04evr, 04 January 2012 - 12:30 AM.


#14 bamarquez226

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 12:42 AM

That's not too bad. I looked up the USB converter, and it was like $94 USD. That's where they get ya...

#15 Zer04evr

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 12:47 AM

but the kit comes with the parrallel cable the usb is optional





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