Rrod Fix + Hot Air Guns Etc.....questions :)
Posted 16 February 2010 - 11:21 AM
right....so I have a jtagged box (whoooohooooo) that I did with my old old banned console.
I'm always living in fear that its going to die
Anyways, I've just bought off ebay and picked up a rrod box that I'm hopeful is going to be jtaggable.....a 2005 console....looks like its had a repair done by MS (seal intact..no major marks....and the gpu heatsink has that secondary heatsink to the right of the dvd drive...which if I remember right didnt come with consoles from that age??)
I've checked the console and its a 0102 error.
Now I've only attempted one rrod fix in the past which failed miserably months ago.....as it had been openened and previously xclamped and bodged to bits...for a friend of a friend.
I want to be sure that I order the right bits......
Now I plan to do the heatgun method.....so looking around for the various different guides and tutorials etc....
1. Is it worth doing the whole covering the board with lots of blu-tac and tin foil? Also saw another vid where had cardboard covering the gpu area in a tube to concentrate on that part while protecting outside area.
2. Which heatgun would be best? a 2000w operating at 350C and 600C, or a 1500w operating at 300C and 500C?
3. Take heatsinks off during air gunning? I'm guessing thats a yes?
4. Obviously its worth changing the paste on the cpu and gpu..now is it worth getting Arctic Cooling MX-2 over Arctic Silver as heard its meant to be better? Also does anyone have any pics of just how thin the layer should be.....should you still be able to see through it when applied? Also do you apply paste to the other little chips that are under the heatsink areas?
5. Since I plan on doing hot air gun fix....is it still worth me replacing the xclamps with washers and bolts as per the typical xclamp repair kits sold on ebay?
6. If #5 is a yes......then whats the best option.....nylon washers...or sprung washers...for the underside of the board. I keep hearing conflicting info about the sprung washers. Websites I found in past (and sellers) say sprung better than nylon as the nylon don't last....others say dont touch the sprung washers as they'll dig into the motherboard and do way more permanent damage? Is there any now thats regarded as THE BEST guide above all others? doing my head in reading one site saying "we use more expensive nylon washers" and other site saying "we use more expensive spring washers".
hope yas can help.
Itching to get this repaired (not looking forward to it though - but thats probably after having that disheartening failed attempt months back - but that was a no-go from the start).
Posted 16 February 2010 - 12:07 PM
You are better off putting the money you are going to spend on parts and supplies on buying a brand new console with a full 3yrs of warranty.
Edited by SovietSlayer, 16 February 2010 - 12:08 PM.
Posted 16 February 2010 - 12:24 PM
@ Midnight Tboy
I'm no expert on ghetto reflows, but:
1. There's no point in going overboard with insulation. Cover the areas you aren't going to blast with heat with alu tape, card and foil.
2. The 300 and 500c from what I've read seems the best.
4. A grain of rice sized paste, and spread it evenly over the CPU/GPU dyes. Only apply to the dyes (the mirror like chip tops).
5. If a refow takes properly, then you won't need the x-clamp fix. What you should do is the airflow divider and fan mods (or if you JTAG it use the fan speed controller app)
6. THE best x-clamp replacement is RBJTech's method (google RBJTech). If done correctly it's as good if not better than the original clamps - ie no more pressure on the GPU/CPU than the originals.
Word of warning - heatgunning isn't great, a good way to reflow a board is by using an expensive IR machine. And even then there's no guarantee that the 360 won't bork again. It's all about cooling.
If you're going to go heatgun, Sodiumba's method (with a bt of adaptation) is good.
1. Get a griddle. Preheat griddle.
2. Use nuts and bolts through the CPU/GPU clamp mounting holes to make risers so the 360 mobo will sit approx 1cm above griddle pan. Isolate area to heatgun.
3. Place 360 on griddle and allow to heat for 5 minutes.
4. Turn heatgun on at 250-300c. Hold at least 15cm's above mobo and circle gun not haeting one spot for too long. Do this for 30 seconds.
5. Turn heatgun up to 450-500c, circling, heatgun for 15 seconds (still 15cm above mobo).
6. Leave 360 on griddle and leave to cool for at least 30 minutes.
7. Pop on x-clamps and it should boot.
But again, heatgunning isn't the best method. You've been warned
Posted 16 February 2010 - 01:14 PM
I don't know if I'd go as far as saying I enjoy doing the repair - after the last failed attempt months back on the already bodged system (they'd xclamped already badly...towel tricked it....etc etc). I do enjoy the jtag challenge though. Last one took me many hours - but very pleased with self when succeeded
I'd love to have it reflowed properly, however I don't have access to any of them expensive reflow stations, so think a hot air gun fix is probably my solution....and from reading seems to be generally recommended to do first anyway.
Do you, or anyone, know much about this arctic MX-2? From all accounts its supposedly better than AS5....but on searching here for info on it - only seem to read info on people having problems with fixing their boxes....that also happen to be using mx-2 (coincidence....who knows)
I'll probably try the hot air gun method first....and then if fails get an xclamp kit.
Quick question.. When you remove the official xclamps are they easy to reattach? Doesnt it involve prising it off with a screwdriver? (the old failed attempt had already had them removed so never got to see that )
Also, think I'll probably get some of this stuff as seems to be recommended
I do plan to set the fans to run 100% once I hopefully have it jtagged, and get some heatsinks on memory chips etc.
Posted 16 February 2010 - 01:42 PM
X-clamps are easy to re-attach if you remove them properly. Use a jewellers screw driver (think they're called precision screwdrivers in the states), use a flat-head one, and gently insert into one of the ends of the x-clamps on the base of the mobo. Gently push forward, and the clamp end should pop off. Repeat on the next one, and the you should just be able to lift the clamp off.
Definitly use no clean liquid flux. Also before doing this, buy some isopropyl alcohol and flush under the GPU/CPU. By the sounds of your 0102 error I'd concentrate on the GPU more. Spray the alcohol under the GPU, and allow to dry before applying the flux.
Posted 16 February 2010 - 01:58 PM
I was thinking of buying some arcticlean aswell as the AS5 (or MX-2) . If I remember right, that stuff is meant to be better than isopropyl? Something about isopropyl still leaving a tiny amount of film behind.
Think arcticlean stuff would be safe to use too with ?
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item27ae6ab4a4 this is the stuff I mean.
also if so would it be a case of using a few drops of both bottles?
Posted 16 February 2010 - 03:06 PM
The Iso Alcohol is used for flushing under the GPU/CPU to get rid of dust etc pre-reflow. The stuff I use is Servisol IPA 170 for this
Just seen you're from the UK - Maplins stock it, or eBay here:
Edited by thwack, 16 February 2010 - 03:08 PM.
Posted 17 February 2010 - 12:58 AM
I saw that jpg on another thread while searching too. I don't have a drill to drill into the bottom of the case...though I suppose I could potentially get hold of one........knowing me though I'll prob drill half an inch out of place or something and end up with massive holes
Can't decide if I manage to fix it with the heat gun if its worth me doing the xclamp fix or use the original. As then if I did keep the originals I wouldnt have to worry about if its the right distance, springers being too tight and grinding into board, and all other potential problems the kits can also seemingly give.
Posted 17 February 2010 - 01:06 AM
mx-2 is the better paste i think it doesn't require much cure time is why some people prefer...but don't quote me on that. as i just use AS5
Edited by postal worker, 17 February 2010 - 01:08 AM.
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