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Ps360 Controller Help! Working On A Tutorial


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#1 Fifaking22

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 10:59 AM

I Have been working on this project for sometime and achieved little success. I managed to make a semi working prototype and i need you guys help to make the ultimate one. When making Ben Heck's controller, i found out that there were many holes which lead to the demise of these poor and expensive controllers. What im asking is I need a starting out tip fro the new controller im making. I will put up pictures really soon and by the way. (no disrespect to Ben Heck or his controller) i just dont like the way it feels very much. Ill post pics of my ps360 ben heck version. right now theres little i can do because i have to wait for my ps3 controller to arrive and im using a six-axis by the way. my dualshock 3 died for NO REASOn sad.gif .

PS360 Controller Outline. BY THE WAY IM USING RDC's METHOD. -ALTHOUGH VERY HARD IT HAS A LOT OF ADVANTAGES OVER THE BEN HECK PS360. You'll see what i mean when you try to rebuild the left analog stick out of perfboard!

1. ill update this post and put up the motherboard scans so we can determine what version it is. Then i will need advice on soldering spots that would be good with little interference. RDC please i may also need your input too. This will also serve as a tutorial for the motherboard versions i receive. Your input will be really appreciated.

#2 RDC

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 02:57 AM

I personally wouldn't go with the older Six-Axis controller for the PS360, it's more of a mess to get all torn down and as slim as possible so it'll fit in the shell along with the 360 controller board. I'd have to look at where to cut that one and what all, if anything, would need to be rebuilt on it trace wise. Long ago I started in on one with the older Six-Axis board, but once I saw it was doable, albeit a real nightmare, I left it alone until the DS3 versions rolled out and have used them since then.

Using a DS3 version means the sticks will be much more work though, whereas with the older Six-Axis you could just leave the 360 controller's sticks in there and use them, unless it's one of the newer version Six-Axis (MSU_V2 & V2.5), but in the long run using the DS3 version is just a better choice for several reasons, mainly it has Rumble, though if you're not interested in that feature you can always leave the motors out of it and it'll be just like a Six-Axis in that respect, but I'd use a DS3 as it'll give you less of a hassle overall. The only version of DS3 to stay away from is the MSU_VX3_0.08 as it has a miniboard that will need removing and rewiring.

Edited by RDC, 15 April 2010 - 03:00 AM.


#3 Fifaking22

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Posted 16 April 2010 - 12:17 AM

I was originally planning to do a dualshock 3 one but out of nowhere my dualshock 3 just died and it wont turn on. i dont know what is wrong with it. even when you plug it up to the ps3 it still doenst light up. i just got the contollers and how do you post pics here??? ill put up both motherboard scans and. btw the first ben heck ps360 i made was horrible. due to SMT i ripped out the solder board and his build type is very loose and hard to put back together. ill upload the pic soon

#4 RDC

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Posted 16 April 2010 - 01:40 AM

Upload your pics to someplace like PhotoBucket then post the link in the thread, try and keep them 800 x 600 or so as well.

All of the official PS3 controller versions, that' I've run across to date anyway, are shown here. http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=648322


#5 Fifaking22

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 05:20 PM

you need a working 360 PCB to use your method??? Some bad soldering shorted put the board that I got. I intend to desolder it and it looks like so e of the Analog and traces. Are gone. I'll upload the pics.

#6 RDC

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 05:30 PM

It doesn't have to be 'technically' working, but if it does then you know every trace/pad on it is good, and at the very least it should be in excellent shape. If the traces/pads are all forked up then it's more of a chore to use, a real PITA to use or just not worth it at all to even try and use depending on what all is torn up on the board. The better the shape it's in and the cleaner you remove all of the SMT components (except the Sync switch and LEDs if you want to keep them Green) the better off you'll be as you'll have all of the best spots to solder to, as well as any secondary spots in case you tank any while doing the thing.

#7 Fifaking22

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 07:17 PM

The controller worked when I got it. I'm pretty sure it still works but I soldered
a new analog stick to it and it shorted out. More than one pin was connected by the solder. Everything works fine except the left analog and the trIgger. I'll post pictures in the defects!!

#8 Fifaking22

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 08:55 PM

I Know I'm Lazy but Finally Here's The Motherboard Scans

Here Is the 360 And Ps3 Controller I'm Using. A Version number and proper TP Spot guide will be much appreciated!!


http://img697.images...360scans027.jpg

PS3 MOBO
http://img140.images...360scans026.jpg
http://img69.imagesh...360scans025.jpg


360 MOBO
http://img690.images...360scans002.jpg
http://img12.imagesh...360scans003.jpg

RDC Here's The Trace Defect.
Controller Works- http://img696.images...360scans013.jpg
Here's the Messed up Traces (Left Analog)- http://img528.images...360scans019.jpg
(R2 Button)- http://img101.images...360scans021.jpg

RDC see the copper around the pins is gone and I'm wondering if the analog are still usable besides this defect the controller works excellent and no traces have been ripped out and it's in perfect working conditions.

Now all i need to move on is where to start, which components to cleanly remove from the 360 board without messing it up and Some good TP spots where i could solder to maintain the button function. Resistor locations would also be nice. Right now I'm studying the six axis PCB and tracing diagram to find out where i could solder ps3 inputs and resistor locations. Thanks again for reading this! With your help ill get to work ASAP!

http://img697.images...scans027.th.jpg
http://img69.imagesh...360scans004.jpg

Edited by RDC, 19 April 2010 - 01:12 AM.


#9 RDC

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 03:03 AM

The version number is there on the top of the board, and I've already linked to the thread that has all that info in it.

You need to remove pretty much all of the components from the 360 board, also already mentioned.

Those pics are too blurry to make out any damage besides what's torn up at the LS, which is a good bit, and if you plan to use the original sticks and the older Six-Axis board there you'll have to reconnect those traces to those spots.

The Resistors can be installed wherever you like, as long as one is between V and COM1 and another between V and COM2 they can go wherever.




#10 Fifaking22

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 05:17 PM

I was talking about the 360 motherboard. What version of the motheboardnis this so I can see the TP spots in your diagrams.

#11 RDC

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Posted 19 April 2010 - 05:35 PM

It's a Wireless Matrix, and it doesn't have any TP spots, except for Start which is TP25 and then TP6 that can be used for COM1 after the rest of the board has been setup properly, every other spot you'll use will be a solder pad, via or trace if you botch them up.

http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=581887


#12 Fifaking22

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 03:21 AM

I fooled up my practice board. How did you remove the components on the 360 motherboard. I tried today and I screwed it up. I need to get this right. Can't affored hontank another controller.

#13 RDC

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 03:44 AM

Hot Air.

#14 Fifaking22

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 10:15 AM

As in i need a heat gun. That's the only thing that comes to mind that can melt solder??

#15 RDC

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Posted 20 April 2010 - 12:35 PM

They make hot air rework setups for (de)soldering those type of components, though the few hundred dollars you'll invest in one is right pointless unless you plan to make a few more of these controllers, and if you do you'll have to charge a decent amount for them to pay for the time and tools you invest into making each one, and then no one will want it as most think it's really a simple process to make one up and it should cost next to nothing. Be interesting to see the price tag on this thing, minus the hours upon hours spent on it, when you're finished with it.

You can use a heat gun if you like, but it has to be done very carefully as it will torch the board and/or components if you're not watching what you're doing with it. All thru-hole components should be removed with a soldering iron and solder sucker first, then get into stripping the board of the SMT parts.




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