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Great 5v - 12v Fan Mod - Rheostat (pot, Potentiometer, Variable Resist


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#1 KboxMod

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 12:46 AM


Just thought I would share. This is how I installed a Rheostat (Potentiometer, Pot) on the back of my Xbox 360 that allows me to turn the knob and change the fan power/speed from 5v to 12v or any speed in between.
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Needed:
- Rheostat (this is the one I used)
- Wire
- Soldering iron / skills
- Drill + 10mm bit

NOTE: This mod involves modifying your case and cutting and soldering wires. If you don't have skills, don't attempt. I am not responsible if you mess it up.

The first thing you need to do, after taking your xbox apart and removing the motherboard, is to drill the 10mm hole to mount the Rheostat.

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The key to where the hole goes is you need to basically drill the center of the hole right where the 2 pieces of the plastic outer case come together, this way when you put the case back on it snaps on on either side of the knob. It also provides perfect spacing above the AV out. I put the top half of the case on, and marked the spot.
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You will also have to drill a hole in the plastic case where the knob will go where the 2 peices of the case meet (smaller than the 10mm).

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Next you need to do the wiring. The 5v source I used is from the fan source. Cut the red and brown wires and solder them together as one. Do the same for the red and brown coming from the fan also. DO NOT cut the black and blue, these are ground and don't need to be changed.
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Then wire the the 5v source to the left tab of the rheostat (furthest from the fan). Wire the center tab to the red and brown wires that go to the fan. The the right tab goes to the 12v source.

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I like these sources for 12v:

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After you are all wired up, put the case back together and test out your work!

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Thanks to everyones pics I borrowed!


#2 Salincer

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 02:35 AM

doesnt that get really hot?

#3 KboxMod

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 02:37 AM

QUOTE(Salincer @ May 12 2010, 09:35 PM) View Post

doesnt that get really hot?


Doesn't what get hot?

#4 Salincer

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 03:38 AM

QUOTE(KboxMod @ May 12 2010, 07:37 PM) View Post

Doesn't what get hot?

The Rheostat. I got mine from radioshack, is that where you got yours? if so..im using one atm to control my video card fan and it gets super hot...i had to put a heat sink on my rheostat

#5 KboxMod

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 04:13 AM

QUOTE(Salincer @ May 12 2010, 10:38 PM) View Post

The Rheostat. I got mine from radioshack, is that where you got yours? if so..im using one atm to control my video card fan and it gets super hot...i had to put a heat sink on my rheostat


No it doesn't, yea I got mine at radioshack too. But I guess I haven't run it that long yet or changed the speed while its been running for a while. The rheostat does have a groove in it that you can use a flat head or paper clip or something to change the speed.

#6 JFreezus

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 09:56 PM

The heat put out by the pot is relative to the voltage drop across it times the current going through it. So if your fan is rated at say....a half an amp, multiply that by 2 since you have 2 fans. 1 amp times voltage drop which could be anywhere from 7v when running the fans at 5v to 0v when running them at 12v. So the lower the fan voltage, the higher the wattage going through the pot. Could get up to 7 watts which means you most likely would need a heat sink on your pot.

The best way to do this really is with an adjustable regulator, which would also get hot, or a pwm circuit. The pwm circuit would be best but is harder to make. I currently am using just an adjustable regulator, with a thermistor to control fan speed. The hotter the thermistor gets (which is attached to the GPU heat sink) the faster the fans go.

#7 KboxMod

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Posted 14 May 2010 - 11:15 PM

QUOTE(JFreezus @ May 13 2010, 04:56 PM) View Post

The heat put out by the pot is relative to the voltage drop across it times the current going through it. So if your fan is rated at say....a half an amp, multiply that by 2 since you have 2 fans. 1 amp times voltage drop which could be anywhere from 7v when running the fans at 5v to 0v when running them at 12v. So the lower the fan voltage, the higher the wattage going through the pot. Could get up to 7 watts which means you most likely would need a heat sink on your pot.

The best way to do this really is with an adjustable regulator, which would also get hot, or a pwm circuit. The pwm circuit would be best but is harder to make. I currently am using just an adjustable regulator, with a thermistor to control fan speed. The hotter the thermistor gets (which is attached to the GPU heat sink) the faster the fans go.



Great input. After reading both of your guys' posts I will definitely add a heatsink to my Rheostat.

#8 DARKFiB3R

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Posted 17 February 2011 - 03:25 PM

Thanks for the info...

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^^ Ignore the repaired ground wires (black and blue) rolleyes.gif

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Edited by DARKFiB3R, 17 February 2011 - 03:28 PM.


#9 Chrisoldinho

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 01:16 AM

Excellent work tongue.gif

#10 joh123

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Posted 09 February 2012 - 04:58 PM

Hi! An old topic, I know, but I was already off to the shop to buy a potentiometer, when I found many people saying that you need alot more Watts than 3W.. some said like 12W, some said 25W..

What kind of a potentiometer do I need for the mod in question?

#11 joh123

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Posted 20 February 2012 - 10:43 PM

Hi, please answer me sad.gif

#12 jetblue7

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 08:55 PM

hi sorry for old answer but im doing this mod as we speak and im using this one:

http://www.radioshac...rentPage=search

25-Ohm 3-Watt Rheostat
Model:
271-265
| Catalog #: 271-265

goes from 3 watt to 25 watt. more than enough but i cant find a smaller or cheaper one so this will have to do


ahhh,now i can rest....

#13 jetblue7

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Posted 11 January 2013 - 05:13 AM

i just finished this mod,console started up as normal ,fan was at a nice speed,then noticed controller wouldnt sync,after a restart then the power went off. removed the fan and the rheostat and put in a regular fan. its started back up but again no sync and then no pwer at all. its dead no life. im sure i shorted something. anyone know what it could be? a mosfet or a fuse?

#14 deilzfcjk

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Posted 11 January 2013 - 06:10 AM

You probably messed up by using a bad splicing method. The fault is probably in your 5 volt rails. Proabably ground when you cut and slice the red/ brown wires.

#15 jetblue7

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Posted 11 January 2013 - 08:37 AM

thanks,i did the splicing perfectly. now i got the non working motherboard and a working motherboard plugged in taking volt readings from what components that get power. so far im getting identical readings from the working board. still much components to check.
much.

anyone have a roadmap or point me in the right direction for what to check?



i like this smiley pop.gif

Edited by jetblue7, 11 January 2013 - 08:38 AM.





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