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Getting Back Into Modding, Got 2 360s For My Bday


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#1 Spamwich

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 02:41 AM

I have been told 1 is jtaggable if it were to work. They don't think it has been online for a few years. I'm still new so I don't know what the cutoff date was, but seem to think it has been a while. The Jtaggable box does not red ring. Just turns on with no A/V output. Still has original microsoft seals MFR Date: 2006-04-18



Second would just be a fun box, possibly will use it for parts, or grab the key from it if I can get the first up and running and sucessful Jtag. It will turn on, DVD drive will begin clicking and it will flash 3 red rings. When it is finished clicking, it will spin up very fast and then will switch to a 2 red ring and then become silent, sitting with 2 red rings. Has been opened, but nothing has been done to it as I know the previous owner. MFR Date: 2005-11-13




I've done tons of modding with the original xboxes(never touched a 360 before), anything from a simple softmod, to TSOP, to a 64MB ram upgrade. Never used chips, always a DIY guy as it brings me a bit more of self accomplishment. If I can get the Jtag done, I will probably go all-out with water cooling, LED case, etc.

Let me know what your guys opinions are and where I should start.

#2 canisay

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 09:33 PM

QUOTE(Spamwich @ Jun 20 2010, 05:41 PM) View Post

I have been told 1 is jtaggable if it were to work. They don't think it has been online for a few years. I'm still new so I don't know what the cutoff date was, but seem to think it has been a while. The Jtaggable box does not red ring. Just turns on with no A/V output. Still has original microsoft seals MFR Date: 2006-04-18



Second would just be a fun box, possibly will use it for parts, or grab the key from it if I can get the first up and running and sucessful Jtag. It will turn on, DVD drive will begin clicking and it will flash 3 red rings. When it is finished clicking, it will spin up very fast and then will switch to a 2 red ring and then become silent, sitting with 2 red rings. Has been opened, but nothing has been done to it as I know the previous owner. MFR Date: 2005-11-13


I've done tons of modding with the original xboxes(never touched a 360 before), anything from a simple softmod, to TSOP, to a 64MB ram upgrade. Never used chips, always a DIY guy as it brings me a bit more of self accomplishment. If I can get the Jtag done, I will probably go all-out with water cooling, LED case, etc.

Let me know what your guys opinions are and where I should start.


They both sound very JTAGgable, but being Xenons, they are very prone to RROD. The first console, I would give these instructions a shot. If that doesn't work then it's probably ANA or the GPU. If you don't have access to a rework station the X-Clamp fix is what you will probably want to do.

The other one will probably be a little more trouble some. 2 lights indicates that the CPU has reached its thermal temperature limits. You can check the secondary error code which will give you a little more indication as to what is happening with the system. This page will help you get the code and this page will tell you what it means. Again if you have no access to a rework station, taking off the xlamps and applying some new thermal grease may get it working.

#3 Spamwich

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 11:16 PM

Please define a rework station. I have my own soldering tools, and am decently skilled with my hands. I have done the 64MB upgrade on a few original boxes.

Anyways, i'm assuming I will have to do the X-Clamp on all of them. Sounds like brute force and overheating things again would be a bad thing to do.

I will probably need 4 of these, for both the CPU and GPU on both boxes.
http://secure.llamma...products_id=864

Probably should be looking at preventative measures to keep them from overheating again. WHat do you recommend for that?

Probably 2 of these, unless someone has better options as these seem a bit spendy.
http://secure.llamma...products_id=918


Also, what about fan upgrades?

Edited by Spamwich, 21 June 2010 - 11:19 PM.


#4 Twis7eD

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 12:05 AM

If you want to prevent overheating again, then the best thing to do is the 12v fan mod. It's a simple mod that will make your fan run faster and make your Xbox stay at a cooler temperature. It will, however, make your Xbox louder. If you don't feel like doing the 12v fan mod, then once you have the JTAG hack in place, you can always download Freestyle dash and use some of its settings to adjust your fan. Freestyle dash allows you to change your fan speed and can really help with Xbox's that may be prone to overheating.

#5 bamarquez226

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 12:45 AM

To add to Twsi7eD 12v recommendation, the fan shroud mod:

http://www.rbjtech.n...ing/cooling.htm

Helps draw more air over the heatsinks, grabbing more heat to be expelled.

Rework station - either hot air or IR used to rework BGA (Ball Grid Arrays), the mating method used for the GPU, CPU, HANA/ANA, and Southbridge. Not your typical pencil solder tip setup. Workstations meant for SMT spec components.


#6 canisay

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 12:57 AM

QUOTE(Spamwich @ Jun 21 2010, 02:16 PM) View Post

Please define a rework station. I have my own soldering tools, and am decently skilled with my hands. I have done the 64MB upgrade on a few original boxes.




QUOTE(bamarquez226 @ Jun 21 2010, 03:45 PM) View Post



Rework station - either hot air or IR used to rework BGA (Ball Grid Arrays), the mating method used for the GPU, CPU, HANA/ANA, and Southbridge. Not your typical pencil solder tip setup. Workstations meant for SMT spec components.


What he said biggrin.gif
Some people bake the boards in an oven, some people have luck with a heat gun, but they all pretty much inevitably will red ring again. When reflowed with a proper SMD or infared workstation, they have a pretty good success rate

#7 Spamwich

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Posted 24 June 2010 - 02:01 AM

Alright guys, so got around to the xboxes today. Took a while to get the first one open, but finally managed to open it and only broke one tab from the grill that goes on the HDD side. and just slightly marred the plastic in the back trying to open it.

The second xbox was easy, it has already been opened, and by the looks of all the previously broken plastic, loots like some other backyard jack had used too much force. Once inside, was the same story, half of the screws are missing, they scratched off the thermal paste and failed to replace it. On the back side where the foam was on the first box, they had taped up 2 pennies in electrical tape and stuck them to the 4 chips, which surprised me, they used Thermal paste this time. No clue why, considering pennies are 99% zinc and there was a few layers of electrical tape between them and the chips. God knows how long it will take to fix this one.

Anyways, on to my somewhat successful attempt at fixing the first box. Bought all the screws and washers at lowes, drilled out the case and proceeded to do the average X-Clamp fix. but when I turned it on, it instantly 3 ringed, which this box has never done before, it was originally just a no video problem. I thought bad things that I had caused too much stress to the die. Thought it was toast so I said screw it, let's add as much heat as possible, these xboxes were free. Let it sit for half hour with my cheap $5 soldering iron resting on top of the heat-sink to help speed up the process. Let it cool off for 10 min, powered it on, nothing. Removed the GPU heat-sink, brought out my $100 Weller and pressed it firmly to the die. Continued holding it to the xbox as I cycled it on and off about 3 times, all which caused instant 2 ring. Removed the power and the soldering gun. re-attached the heat-sink and turned it on. Which then scared the life out of me, as I left my speakers on MAX. Miraculously it worked, booted to the old blades dashboard and I nearly creamed my pants with excitement. I know not to et my hopes up too high, but I'm going to invest $50 into a new GPU heat-sink and a fan upgrade. Before that though, I want to get my Jtag working. During this whole process, I failed to plug in the DVD drive, which I just read a few minutes ago will cause an instant ban. Are there any workarounds for this?

Where should I begin my research about a Jtag?

#8 thwack

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Posted 24 June 2010 - 03:35 PM

Don't worry about the detached drive and booting - there's no proof MS were banning for this, they may flag you however. In a nutshell, you could have a legit 360 with a DVD error that the 360 sees as no DVD - so they can't ban you for it smile.gif

That $50 you're going to spend on a new heatsink - I'd spend it on getting the 360 reballed, then you're gonna have a more lasting fix for the old fella.

Woot post 1000 smile.gif



#9 Spamwich

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Posted 24 June 2010 - 05:46 PM

I built my cable, soldered my points, got Nandpro20e. Had issues on my win7 x64 machine, so switched over to XP pro. Same issue, unable to detect flash controller.

I double checked my soldering, not a thing is in the wrong spot

according to these jtag points
IPB Image

and this lpt diagram
IPB Image

NOTE: this is a Xenon board. I did not use the "JTAG" points(2 diodes and jumper wire) from the above image. I used the very topmost jtag points.

#10 canisay

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Posted 24 June 2010 - 06:24 PM

QUOTE(Spamwich @ Jun 24 2010, 08:46 AM) View Post

I built my cable, soldered my points, got Nandpro20e. Had issues on my win7 x64 machine, so switched over to XP pro. Same issue, unable to detect flash controller.

I double checked my soldering, not a thing is in the wrong spot


NOTE: this is a Xenon board. I did not use the "JTAG" points(2 diodes and jumper wire) from the above image. I used the very topmost jtag points.


Got your diode facing the right way for your LPT cable? The black line should be on the side closest to the board.
Do you have a multimeter? Set it to continuity (pic of a speaker usually), put one end on the pin of the lpt cable and the other on the point on the board. It should make a noise. If you are looking at the cable with the pins facing you, Pin 1 is on the first row all the way to the right. The wire for pin one if soldered to the back of the cable will be on the top row on the left side. When I made my first cable I was using the wrong pin as pin 1 because the pics I found werent really clear

Edited by canisay, 24 June 2010 - 06:25 PM.


#11 Spamwich

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Posted 24 June 2010 - 07:13 PM

QUOTE(thwack @ Jun 24 2010, 07:35 AM) View Post

Don't worry about the detached drive and booting - there's no proof MS were banning for this, they may flag you however. In a nutshell, you could have a legit 360 with a DVD error that the 360 sees as no DVD - so they can't ban you for it smile.gif

That $50 you're going to spend on a new heatsink - I'd spend it on getting the 360 reballed, then you're gonna have a more lasting fix for the old fella.

Woot post 1000 smile.gif

THe heatsink is only $25.




Other thoughts:

Took the multimeter to the cable, apparently I had the pins incorrect. All connections have good contact with the board, I confirmed this by testing continuity from the ground, to the bottom end of the resistors/diodes.

Re-doing the cable now, suppose that's what I get for working late at night mindlessly, trying to do something that requires 4 hands with only 2.

QUOTE(canisay @ Jun 24 2010, 10:24 AM) View Post

Got your diode facing the right way for your LPT cable? The black line should be on the side closest to the board.
Do you have a multimeter? Set it to continuity (pic of a speaker usually), put one end on the pin of the lpt cable and the other on the point on the board. It should make a noise. If you are looking at the cable with the pins facing you, Pin 1 is on the first row all the way to the right. The wire for pin one if soldered to the back of the cable will be on the top row on the left side. When I made my first cable I was using the wrong pin as pin 1 because the pics I found werent really clear


Heh, sorry missed this post. Exactly what I did. Not sure how I got them switched, I'm usually good at these things.


You know you're having fun when you have a brand new game (red dead) and a brand new 250gb elite. and you've spent more time with the broken ones than actually gaming.


#12 nm*13

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Posted 24 June 2010 - 08:19 PM

you should really spend that $50 dollars on reballing your xbox like thwack said because i promise you that fix will not last and if you look in the bst you can find the heatsink for way less than $25 dollars.

#13 Spamwich

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Posted 24 June 2010 - 11:15 PM

So, to my understanding the only thing Xell is good for would be to read my CPU, DVD, and KV. and if I were to install XBReboot, I would not need Xell.

Now, is XBReboot the JTAG hack? or will I need soemthing else? Also, how do I pick my own dashboard/change my dashboard later on?


As of this moment, I have 2 Nand dumps, both of which are identical.
What is my next step?

#14 canisay

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Posted 24 June 2010 - 11:51 PM

QUOTE(Spamwich @ Jun 24 2010, 02:15 PM) View Post

So, to my understanding the only thing Xell is good for would be to read my CPU, DVD, and KV. and if I were to install XBReboot, I would not need Xell.

Now, is XBReboot the JTAG hack? or will I need soemthing else? Also, how do I pick my own dashboard/change my dashboard later on?
As of this moment, I have 2 Nand dumps, both of which are identical.
What is my next step?


I would use Freeboot as XBR is no longer being updated (still on dash 8599) and if you attempt to update to 9199, it will blow efuses if you havent removed the resistor or bridged the two points. You can use Freeboot Toolbox to make the image pretty easily, if you wanted to boot into an alternative dash (freestyle dash is awesome) you can do that also.

Edited by canisay, 24 June 2010 - 11:55 PM.


#15 Spamwich

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Posted 25 June 2010 - 12:00 AM

Okay, so I have my Nand.bin dumped. all I need now is FreeBoot. then I flash FreeBoot, and I can remove the LPT cable and my xbox will be fully Jtagged? After that, what do I do about a custom dashboard such as XBMC?

QUOTE(canisay @ Jun 24 2010, 03:51 PM) View Post

I would use Freeboot as XBR is no longer being updated (still on dash 8599) and if you attempt to update to 9199, it will blow efuses if you havent removed the resistor or bridged the two points. You can use Freeboot Toolbox to make the image pretty easily, if you wanted to boot into an alternative dash (freestyle dash is awesome) you can do that also.

http://i144.photobuc..._Hack/Fdjmi.png

Will I blow fuses with this setup?

Do you know any good freeboot tutorials that will help me achieve what I am doing? If not, can you give me a brief description of the programs I need? I assume I can get them from the usual places as I always do.

Edited by Spamwich, 25 June 2010 - 12:03 AM.





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