Jump to content


Photo

Mounting An Xbox Dvd Into A Hd Dvd Case


  • Please log in to reply
19 replies to this topic

#1 Grifter357

Grifter357

    X-S Young Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 56 posts

Posted 17 November 2010 - 02:47 AM

Hi,

I'm attempting to mount my dvd drive into an HD DVD case. Extending the power cable and adding a longer SATA cable isn't the problem.

The problem is the eject button, the HD DVD case has a small circuit board and 4 wire connector to open and close the HD DVD drive while the eject button on the xbox console is mounted on the mother board.

Is it possible to use the eject button on the HD DVD case to open and close the new drive or will it only be possible to use one of the controllers?

Is there a way to splice into the power cable with any of the wires from the eject connector on the HD DVD to make it work? I have read that one of the wires on the power cable carries the eject function to the drive, can this be converted to work with the HD DVD case eject button?

There is also a 12 wire connector on the circuit board that carries the power to the HD DVD drive similar to the 10 wire connector that the xbox uses. I assume this connector has the power and eject function, could it be used to power the drive and eject the disk tray?

Thanks in advance.

Grif

Edited by Grifter357, 17 November 2010 - 03:05 AM.


#2 RDC

RDC

    X-S Seraphic

  • Head Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,791 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:VA
  • Xbox Version:v1.0
  • 360 version:v1 (xenon)

Posted 17 November 2010 - 06:02 AM

You technically only need to run one wire from the 360 to make the Eject button work, the other side of the button is Ground and you can tie that into any of the Ground wires on the power cable. The reason it has 4 wires if for the LEDs in it.

http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=678378

Since you'll have to make the power cable from the 360 to the HD-DVD case just use some connectors that have a couple extra pins and you'll have one for the Eject line (and power for the LEDs if you wanted) unless you plan to make a straight cable from the 360 board to the drive inside the HD-DVD case, which isn't going to looks as good or be as functional if you ever have to tear things apart again, but if that's how you plan to do it you can loose one of the Ground wires from the power cable and use it for the Eject line.

Edited by RDC, 17 November 2010 - 06:04 AM.


#3 Grifter357

Grifter357

    X-S Young Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 56 posts

Posted 17 November 2010 - 11:49 PM

QUOTE(RDC @ Nov 17 2010, 12:02 AM) View Post

You technically only need to run one wire from the 360 to make the Eject button work, the other side of the button is Ground and you can tie that into any of the Ground wires on the power cable. The reason it has 4 wires if for the LEDs in it.

http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=678378

Since you'll have to make the power cable from the 360 to the HD-DVD case just use some connectors that have a couple extra pins and you'll have one for the Eject line (and power for the LEDs if you wanted) unless you plan to make a straight cable from the 360 board to the drive inside the HD-DVD case, which isn't going to looks as good or be as functional if you ever have to tear things apart again, but if that's how you plan to do it you can loose one of the Ground wires from the power cable and use it for the Eject line.


RDC,

Thanks for the reply, I should be able to make the eject button work. I was reading one of your other responses on this subject about the power supply limit on the LED's, would powering them with a 3.3v source with a 10ohm resister on the line be good so as to not burn them out.

Also, could you suggest a good connector to use at the back of the case, maybe an LPT port connector?

Grif.


#4 RDC

RDC

    X-S Seraphic

  • Head Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,791 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:VA
  • Xbox Version:v1.0
  • 360 version:v1 (xenon)

Posted 18 November 2010 - 12:52 AM

You'll want to go with 100ohm or so on them to start with if you're using a 3.3v source. Using a 10ohm on them wouldn't be much different than running them with no Resistor at all in this case and they'll burn up for sure. When in doubt or if you don't know the exact voltage/current rating of the LED(s) in question, always start on the high side with the Resistor value as it's easier to go to a lower value and make it a little bit brighter, but once it's toast it's done and you'll be doing some SMT rework to replace it.

An LPT connector (DB25) is one that you could use, it's easy to get and it has more than enough pins, or you could go with SATA connectors, either separate SATA and Power or the combined 22 pin ones, which would be a bit more work to mount compared to the LPT connector, but it also wouldn't make your 360 look like it could use a dot matrix printer either, not that many would ever see it back there.

Anything that has enough pins is really all you need, be it a few small connectors or one huge one. The combined SATA/Power connector has 22 pins on it, more than enough for the DVD drive power and your Eject line and any standard SATA cable can be plugged into it for that part. You can pull the 3.3v from the DVD power cable, so no real need for a connector that has way more pins than you'll need, and even the 15 of the SATA Power connector side of it gives you a few extra to mess with if need be.

There's far too many connectors that will do what you need, so it really just boils down to what you can get and will work out the best with your setup. You can't really go wrong with the LPT and it's been used for this type of thing before.


#5 Grifter357

Grifter357

    X-S Young Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 56 posts

Posted 20 November 2010 - 09:50 PM

Hey RDC,

The xbox is rough wired and working, the eject and green LED work fine. I am thinking about buying a SATA PCI bracket which has the female end and a short extension on the inside to connect to the board, I would trim down the bracket and mount it on the back of the xbox for the SATA line.

For the dvd power cable and eject line I was think of using a ethernet CAT5 port, it has 8 wires so I would have to combine the 4 grounds into 1 to make it work. Will the ethernet cable be able to handle the voltage without any probs?

Have you seen an ethernet port get used for the DVD line before? I would mount these connectors above the video connector on the case, there is no HDMI on this xbox so there is lots of room there.

Thanks,

Grif

Edited by Grifter357, 20 November 2010 - 09:52 PM.


#6 RDC

RDC

    X-S Seraphic

  • Head Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,791 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:VA
  • Xbox Version:v1.0
  • 360 version:v1 (xenon)

Posted 20 November 2010 - 11:09 PM

Can't say as I've seen one used for a DVD power connector before, but I personally wouldn't use it as it's a bit short on pins. Tying all 4 grounds together isn't technically the same as having them separate, as it then falls on the connector to be able to handle the change in current. Granted the SATA cable will also have it's few Ground connections also and it might fly with that setup, but I still wouldn't personally use it for that reason alone, not to mention that some Ethernet connectors have Transformers built into them, so unless it's a straight 8 pin connector it wouldn't work at all anyway.

An old VGA monitor connector would work good (DB15/HD15) as they're pretty small and have 15 pins.

#7 Grifter357

Grifter357

    X-S Young Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 56 posts

Posted 21 November 2010 - 12:43 AM

Hey RDC,

I'll go with the DB15 for the DVD power and eject line. I wasn't able to find a SATA pci bracket at my local radio shack so I'll have to keep looking for that.

If I cut the SATA line will there be a problem if I hook it up via PS2 connector, they have 6 pins and I have some handy, will 6 pins be enough for the SATA line. I read that there might be a sheilding problem when you cut into SATA cables.

When I have a chance I'll put a voltage meter on the 3.3v line with the 100ohm resister on it to see what the voltage to the LED is just out of curiousity.

Thanks.

#8 RDC

RDC

    X-S Seraphic

  • Head Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,791 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:VA
  • Xbox Version:v1.0
  • 360 version:v1 (xenon)

Posted 21 November 2010 - 08:18 AM

If you're just going to have the Resistor on the 3.3v line I can tell you right now it's going to read 3.3v. Unless there's some kind of load, like the LED, there's not going to be a voltage drop across it. There are many, many online LED Resistor Calculators that can do all of that mess for you.

Just try and keep your SATA lines as short as possible and shielded as good as you can. There are 7 connections for SATA, though the actual cable may have 8 inside it, but 4 of them are Ground, so anything with at least 5 pins will work, so you shouldn't have any issues with using a PS/2 connector there.


#9 Grifter357

Grifter357

    X-S Young Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 56 posts

Posted 22 November 2010 - 04:51 AM

Hey RDC,

I ran into a problem, I found a DB25 cable here and I had no problems hooking up the dvd power and eject line but when I try to do the SATA cable it doesn't work. The green light comes on for the xbox but it never shows any video, but if I unplug the SATA cable it boots to the dashboard.

My sata cable has 8 wires, 4 small white wires and 4 bare wires, I linked the 4 ground wires together on one line and ran the other four white wires for a total of five lines. I have triple checked the colors of the wires that carry the SATA cable and I didn't mix any up and everything is heat shrinked and I don't see anything touching something it shouldn't. Everything appears to be correct, but no video when the SATA is plugged in.

Any advice would be great.

Thanks

Grif



#10 RDC

RDC

    X-S Seraphic

  • Head Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,791 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:VA
  • Xbox Version:v1.0
  • 360 version:v1 (xenon)

Posted 22 November 2010 - 07:49 AM

Try it with a straight SATA cable an see how it works, if it does then it's how you have it wired up, length of the SATA cable, bad connection, wrong connection or the break in it isn't shielded enough.

#11 Grifter357

Grifter357

    X-S Young Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 56 posts

Posted 23 November 2010 - 02:18 AM

RDC,

I think sheilding is my problem, I will have a couple of inches of the SATA cable exposed and the cable is roughly 18 inches long. What can I do to sheild the exposed wires aside from heat shrink? Is that foil that sheilds the wire special?

Thanks

Edited by Grifter357, 23 November 2010 - 02:18 AM.


#12 RDC

RDC

    X-S Seraphic

  • Head Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,791 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:VA
  • Xbox Version:v1.0
  • 360 version:v1 (xenon)

Posted 23 November 2010 - 11:11 AM

The foil is the shielding and it's just basically very thin aluminum foil. Heat shrink would just be insulation and not make any difference at all. Having the cable 18in long isn't that good for it either. Triple check your connections, make sure they're all in the correct order and that everything still works with the stock cables.


#13 Grifter357

Grifter357

    X-S Young Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 56 posts

Posted 24 November 2010 - 05:11 AM

Hey RDC,

Well we have good news and bad news. The good news is that it's up and running, mounted the drive in the HD DVD case and finished off the wiring by adding a break point on the eject line on both ends. Now I just have to mount the female DB25 on the back of the xbox and that will conclude the wiring portion.

The bad news is the LED light in the HD DVD case only lasted about 10 minutes with the 100ohm resister, but that's no big loss.

I was at a commercial electrical supplier today and asked them about wire sheath to cover the SATA and DB25 cable for an improved look, but all they had was large sizes of heat shrink which you bought in a 8 foot roll. Any suggestions on sheath for the cables?

I added the 12v fan header to the front of the board so now I'm going to mount an intake fan on the side of the case and a fan to blow air through the 2nd generation CPU heat sinc I mounted on the GPU. Oddly though the CPU seems to get hotter then the GPU and I haven't even modded the fan shroud yet.

Any suggestion would be great.

Thanks again for all your help.

Grif

#14 RDC

RDC

    X-S Seraphic

  • Head Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,791 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:VA
  • Xbox Version:v1.0
  • 360 version:v1 (xenon)

Posted 24 November 2010 - 04:07 PM

The LED on the Eject board is a Bi-Color, so you still have another LED there to try again with a higher value Resistor if you want, though it will be a different color.


Wire loom is an option for covering your cables.


#15 rog311

rog311

    X-S Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 113 posts

Posted 26 November 2010 - 05:03 AM

I was planning on doing the same thing, I have the esata mounted in the case allready, but haven't tracked down a hdddvd case yet,
So I am gathering I wont be able to use the same power source the hddvd uses? Ill need to extend the stock power harness?

Edited by rog311, 26 November 2010 - 05:04 AM.





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users