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Xbox 360 Slim Fan Mod


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#166 shanker

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 11:38 PM

i want to replace stock slim fan
but can someone tell me exact specs of stock fan?
1. size (92, 120 or else)
2. min rpm max rpm if it matters
3. CFM (i think that matters)
4. 3-pin or 4-pin connection? if i have 3-pin fan, it will be spinning at max rpm and can be noisy, right? are threre 3 to 4 pin connectors?
5. other recommendations, specific fan models to use

thanks

Edited by shanker, 13 September 2011 - 11:39 PM.


#167 dragon45801

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Posted 29 September 2011 - 07:46 AM

The stock fan is 92mm but it has an 80mm mount to the heatsink. I added a lighted case fan to my slim using a 80mm to 92mm adapter during my case mod. It is a 4 pin connector but 3 works without trouble.

#168 Drivium

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Posted 20 December 2011 - 05:57 PM

I bought 2 of the Thermaltake A1357 pc fans from Ebay to try to solve my cooling issue in my fat xbox. These fans have a thermal sensor that you can place underneath each heatsink to detect rising temps and control fan speed. Still using stock heatsinks. I have the xkey so I can operate the xbox without the need for the disc drive. I cut out a rectangle on top of case and got some clear plastic and cut a hole for each 80mm fan. I also put tape over the front drive bay hole with a cap just big enough to get my digital meat thermometer in to probe temps in the heat sink. I had fans blowing in and still had freezing issues, as soon as I turned the fans off, the instances of freezing reduced quite a bit. I'm thinking I'll probably reverse them to blow out. But do I then need to reverse the rear exhaust fan as well to blow in (which is a blue led talismoon whisper)? I know in a PC you are supposed to draw air from the lowest point and exhaust from the highest point. I just found it amazing that all of that air power blowing into my box still didn't solve the heat issue. I've read in other forums about this and the issue seems to be that there are no flow channels in the box so even though there are vents, the hot air just seems to hang out inside the box. I plant to reverse the top fans, reverse the rear fan (to draw air in), and create some type of air flow channel to isolate the heatsinks between the in/out vents. Think this will work? Or do fans have to be directly on heatsinks to draw air away?


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Edited by Drivium, 20 December 2011 - 05:59 PM.


#169 caines1989

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Posted 19 February 2012 - 09:47 PM

is this fan ok to replace the one in the slim and would it be better?

http://www.frozencpu...=gb9JxrID#blank

#170 thesilentprice

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 06:29 PM

I was curious myself about which was better push or pull so I did a little experiment with one of my slims.

I suspected that pulling would be better for southbridge temps as cool air would be drawn in from the sides of the case running over the board rather than bathing the components in hot air from the CPU/GPU. But I thought that the CPU/GPU may be slightly cooler with the fans pushing as cool air is being blown directly on the the heatsink. I really wasn`t expecting it to make much difference either way.

I attached a temp sensor to the southbridge with kapton tape and the slim I used is RGH`d so we can monitor temps in FSD.

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With this slim I had already installed a 120mm fan in a pulling config.

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I placed the xbox next to my TV and left it for a about 10 min to let the southbridge temp settle.

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Then I powered up the xbox and started a new Mass Effect 3 game and played it through the opening about 10-15 min, untill you see all the ships burning up in Earth`s atmosphere and the Mass Effect 3 logo appears.

This is the maximum temp the southbridge reached.

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And FSD temps.

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Now about 10 min and an entire gluestick latter, pushing.

http://a.imageshack....2/img1668mq.jpg

Southbridge temp at idle.

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Same procedure with Mass Effect 3, max southbridge temp, as I suspected runs a little hotter.

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FSD temps on the other hand were a little surprising!

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So it would seem certainly in my case that pulling outperforms pushing, so time to break out the glue gun again.

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This time I cranked up the radiator, ran through the opening sequence of Mass Effect 3 and then played Need for Speed for about an hour and I still couldn`t replicate the poor temps I got with the fan pushing.



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http://a.imageshack....1/img1682jv.jpg

I went into this completely un biased and the results were surpising to me, I can`t think why the CPU/GPU temps were so high with the fan pushing, it couldn`t be room temp because even with the radiator turn up uncomfortably high I still couldn`t reproduce those temps. Maybe some fans perform better at pulling and some are better at pushing.

P.S. I`ve found that the stock fan is actually pretty good, in fact at 75% it outperforms the 120mm fan I`ve been using for these tests, but it`s louder. When you set it to 60% it`s about the same dB and runs a couple of degrees hotter than the 120. Oh and removing the fan shroud improves temps, though probably not reccomended if your leaving the fans on Auto as you`ll get less airflow over the southbridge.

http://img515.images...63/img1638p.jpg

Does look good though!

Edited by RDC, 08 February 2013 - 02:43 PM.


#171 PhyChris

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 07:13 AM

Hay. I'm not trying to dig up an old demon here but I have seen some miss-information here that troubles me
and I need to fix it for other people. If the air coming out of a unit is hotter then in another configuration
this dose NOT mean the cooling system is operating more efficiently; it means your components are hotter.
You see the longer air stays in contact with a hot component the hotter the air gets and in turn the less efficient
it is at cooling. For best cooling effect you want the air to contact the component for the least amount of time
as possible; This keeps the temperature difference between the component and air greater making for best
cooling effect.


#172 Seriusdude

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 10:35 AM

QUOTE(undmor @ Jan 1 2011, 02:16 PM) View Post

then tell me just one thing!!!
why is my slim cooler with the fan blowin in then before, even the fan has a lower rpm???

cuz there is enough place and vents for the hot air to go out!
so much about your experience as pros, lol......

^ Ok, what sense does this statement make? jester.gif (rhetorical of course) How can you say its cooler when you haven't measured the heat with a proper measuring utensil? HATERS? tongue.gif No sir, proclaiming profanity on this board when the exploited truth of nature and physics encloses onto you by your fellow peers, almost nearly insures you are completely full of yourself.

Iím no physics major, but I know that blowing IN room temperature air (given its normal and not ridiculously air conditioned) is going to do worse than the vacuumed air (which is almost guaranteed to be less than your rooms given temperature) through the consoleís side vents, cooling the heatsink, and dissipating the heat externally. You donít feel hot air out the sides, because the rest of the components are absorbing the heat before itís vented, and as I have explained, but in reverse. Your doing quite the opposite here Undmor.

You must also take into consideration that the heat sink was built for pulling heat OUT, not pushing it in. (Unless you have a custom heatsink with longer fins with some plastic shrouds leading to smaller fans integrated into both side vents, which your picís obviously donít.) Adding better thermal compound has absolutely nothing to do with it either. I could only agree with you if you somehow proved us with evidence otherwise using a proper utensil. I highly doubt this is true. Running the fan on only 5v at 650 RPMís could not sustain the heat dissipation that is necessary, especially being upside down. rotfl.gif

Were there any other modifications you have added without noticing it to this post? I would REALLY like some proof to this matter, rather than a simple minded slur in an attempt to rebut everyone else Undmor. You seem to have this effect on forums, by creating arguments with people, instead of trying to better explain yourself, and proving your theories accurately with science. Until then, I see nothing good with the fan pushing air in, and I would STRONGLY ADVISE AGAINST IT until this is a guaranteed proven method!

EDIT- AHHH, have we removed the inner metal shroud at all? This could allow more air to be gathered before intake? TO POST ABOVE THIS- So your saying that blowing air in did better? o.O if that's the scenario, what are the other components temperatures? THIS is becoming interesting! uhh.gif

Edited by Seriusdude, 02 April 2013 - 10:42 AM.


#173 AwesomeNurd

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 11:42 PM

It looks nice smile.gif

#174 pepito01226

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 04:27 AM

Hi, I love your fan mod I've gone as far as page 5 of this thread and I am a PC builder as well as a Xbox modder.
.

you used a 3 pin fan and connected to the main power and ground header of the fan leaving out the thermal st out read connection (yellow wire of the fan) Since it sounds like you bought a CASE fan and not a CPU fan you should have known CPU fan has an additional control for the PWM a voltage regulator that allow the main board (motherboard) to palse in wave an extra voltage to higher the fan speed (usually a blue wire next to the yellow wire) So it would seem you are only pushing 12v through the fan keeping it on high setting.

Fan are made to push air through. Determining on the position you face the fan you can either suck the air or push the air through.

The heat sink on the Xbox 360 s looks like it was made to have air flowing through so it would make sense to have it facing air flow directly pushing air over and out the case top and bottom grill. Remember the fan has a flat air duct. Similar to the one on the Xbox phat but flat with a round curve I believe this is to aid air flow in a 2 dimensional direction Up or Down.

I know as a PC modder its ass backwards since we all know best direction is to Pull cool air and push hot air out the back of the case. But in the Xbox Slim they allow direct external air to be pushed in from the side panel and push air out removing hot air and directing it equally over the board and out the bottom or top of the case. Yes some case it worked better if you pull air through from the case and the APU out to the side of the panel but i guess like all mods you have to test it out your self and find the better result.


The light you use are thin SMD light strip usually you can get them water proof and found also on eBay. they sell usually 50cm for around $4 minus shipping. The light run off of 12v since they are all running parallel the SMD resistor allow an even amount of current to flow through them evening out the light intensity.


I love how you did managed to corner the side and plotted holes for the lights. But I to believe its better to use a Pre lighted fan to cool down the APU. Since none of the CPU fan have LED or are silent running like case fan I think for better to go with the case fan for appearance and quiet also find one that runs PWM.

I plan on getting this Round 90mm PWM case fan

and painting the blade as well as doing the hole's for the light smile.gif I think this is a wonderful mod beerchug.gif for you




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