Raised A Pad While Making Xbox - Retro Controller Mod
Posted 04 February 2011 - 01:45 AM
is there any other way to connect TP67 (the "A" button). the flip side with the pad for the A B Y X just has a black pad. kinda like a sticker over the pcb.
Posted 04 February 2011 - 03:38 AM
Posted 04 February 2011 - 06:18 AM
all i can say is lump it full of solder to make sure the traces are connected to the pad. then you will have to solder onm the other side. if thats not an option, follow the trace that goes to the pad back to the next/last component and solder it there.
Posted 04 February 2011 - 11:38 PM
i should mention i dont care if the actual controller is function-able at the end of this or not.
should i dremel out the hole? would that help?
Posted 05 February 2011 - 06:10 AM
1. Get a good nights sleep and look at this after a good breakfast.
I know that sounds retarded, but you will fuck something up if you keep working on this now. I've done many stupid things with electronics when tired and frustrated. If its any consolation, this happened to me on my first attempt with this controller mod as well.
2. Look for a trace - the line on the left leading from the pad you pulled up looks correct.
3. Get a fiberglass brush, you may be able to find one in a hobby store, and gently brush part of the trace till you see silver. Make a size about the same as the pad you pulled up.
4. Now get some flux and glob it on there, glob some flux on your wire and then tin it with solder. For good measure, put some more flux on the tinned wire.
5. Place the wire down on the exposed trace and heat it up with your solder pen nice and gently. The solder should flow onto the exposed trace and make a good joint.
6. After a second or two, very gently check to see if its secure. It should be. Do not pull too hard. I did that after successfully modding my first PSX in the 90s and made it an instant fuck up. Don't be me.
You should be using lots of wire so these pads don't pull up because of tension. Hot glue is also your friend. Once you've tested the controller, I usually put some hot glue on each soldered point.
If you are careful, you can speed up the drying process of the hot glue by getting a compressed air gun, turning it upside down and spraying the glue AFTER YOU SAFELY REMOVE THE SOLDERING GUN AND ANYTHING FLAMMABLE FROM THE WORK AREA. I cannot stress enough how explosive those cans are.
By the way, Why are you doing the DB-25 mod? I told you to start with the DB-15 - its easier and it will do all the major console pads - SNES, NES, Genesis, etc.
Anyway, looks like your learning, grasshopper. Last thing, get a solder fume extractor so you don't give yourself brain damage.
Posted 06 February 2011 - 01:21 AM
im using a db25 cause its all i had lying around. i bought a 2 female to 1 male vga cable to cut up but it only had 10 wires in it. then i cut up an other vga cable i had laying around and it only had 5 wires and 4 wire tin wrapped things. but they both have 15 holes or pins on the ends. im confused.
maybe someone can point me to a cheap place to buy 15 wire vga cables to cut up for this?
will waring just a respirator i.e. a face mask be sufficient? cause i don't have any air flow at my work bench. and i am worried about it. i already have asthma.
Posted 06 February 2011 - 06:32 PM
If this happens, don't get frustrated, the next set will be that much better for it. I would also try putting this one back together, even if its broken. I know I had some issues closing my D-25 controller back up because of the bulk of the wires.
Also, experiment with hot glue. I used to use 2 hits on each wire, 1 about an inch away from the solder point and then one directly on the solder point. This (I think) helped avoid stress pulls on the solder point.
Anyway, yes, VGA cables are built cheap these days. I ran into the same issue. Get these:
Its a DB-15 extension cable. (DB-15 = 15 wires) That's basically what I got, but beige. The ones I got were black, but they no longer seem to stock those unfortunately.
They have the same thing at MonoPrice, but its a bit more expensive - but maybe with shipping it will be less:
A respirator will most definitely help, but I would also get a solder fume extractor, especially if you have asthma. This is the cheapest I could find:
Don't cheap out on your health! Good luck!
Edited by DarthMingus, 06 February 2011 - 06:36 PM.
Posted 06 February 2011 - 11:28 PM
and is this the same kinda of smoke extractor: http://www.amazon.co...-...7423&sr=8-9 ? its a couple bucks cheaper.
there is pics of the pcb in the first post. or is the trace on the other side?
EDIT: oh and another question. do you like to use low or higher heat for this?
Edited by dballs442, 06 February 2011 - 11:55 PM.
Posted 07 February 2011 - 04:24 PM
Good find on the fume extractor!
I turn the dial about halfway up on my soldering station - I think its 400 F. With soldering heat, you mainly have to worry about damaging resistors and these controller's don't have those from what I remember. I would still experiment and find the right heat for melting solder and creating good joints with your gun. You don't want to overdue it. Also, make sure you clean up the flux. Unless you have the no-clean kind.
Posted 07 February 2011 - 08:33 PM
the one on the other side is under the black sticker. which is hard to pull off. i didnt want to force it. dont know if that will mess anything up. i believe its the highlighted lead here.
i also marked where the trace leads to. dont know if that helps. or i might have marked the wrong spot. now that i look at it. but you know what i mean. where that trace leads to.
Posted 09 February 2011 - 12:09 AM
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