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Xbox 360 S E75 Help


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#1 XGO PARADOX

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 07:07 AM

so I got this board off ebay for pretty cheap and it had 0003 error until I started pressing the power button repeatedly now only shows E75/1023 when powered on. At first I thought it was the MOSFETs but after closer inspection I have found that within seconds of powering on the southbridge gets EXTREMELY hot like hot enough to be pretty painful to the touch so does anyone know if I can do a simple heatgun fix similar to the phat 360s or with the higher melting point of the solder on the slim will I need to use different time/temp or is this likely a MOSFET causing this and if so how can I test them without removing them. I tried using a multimeter set to 20 DCV placed - on the A/V and HDMI metal shielding and the + on the drain. If needed I will post a pic showing the voltages I got while powered on and on standby. I have a Xenon and a Jasper board can I can get parts from one of these to fix this? This board is a Trinity in case anyone needed to know. mad.gif sad.gif

#2 wilgo45

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 04:00 AM

Whoa

quite a deal going on there. Going to re-read your article.

I will get back with. See if I can help. Real busy right now

#3 relaxxx

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Posted 03 June 2012 - 08:56 PM

Sounds like scrap parts to me. When it had the power error it might have been fixable. By power cycling you burned a short into a partial short that is more dangerous to components and probably has done permanent damage. The original short might now be harder to find. Test mosfets, one is probably close to shorting. Compare values with a good board. Also make sure all port pins are in good condition and not bent/shorting. Good luck.

Edited by relaxxx, 03 June 2012 - 08:58 PM.


#4 XGO PARADOX

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Posted 04 June 2012 - 01:04 AM

QUOTE(relaxxx @ Jun 3 2012, 12:56 PM) View Post

Sounds like scrap parts to me. When it had the power error it might have been fixable. By power cycling you burned a short into a partial short that is more dangerous to components and probably has done permanent damage. The original short might now be harder to find. Test mosfets, one is probably close to shorting. Compare values with a good board. Also make sure all port pins are in good condition and not bent/shorting. Good luck.

OK thanks I have a good trinity that is my main console I will test values against it do you have any advice on how to go about testing these MOSFETs do I need to remove them all or remove some of the coils on the board or can I test them by powering it on, putting the negative of my multimeter on the A/V port shielding, and positive on drain like I have been doing. thanks for the help I'll test and post my results with the method you advise. I have checked the board over carefully and can't seem to find any visible damage/broken traces

QUOTE(wilgo45 @ Jun 2 2012, 08:00 PM) View Post

Whoa

quite a deal going on there. Going to re-read your article.

I will get back with. See if I can help. Real busy right now

ok thanks. any help would be greatly appreciated I would be very happy if I could take some parts off a few old junk boards to get this perfectly new one working

#5 wilgo45

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Posted 04 June 2012 - 03:38 AM

QUOTE(XGO PARADOX @ Jun 3 2012, 07:04 PM) View Post


ok thanks. any help would be greatly appreciated I would be very happy if I could take some parts off a few old junk boards to get this perfectly new one working



0003 - notes a power management issue. Could have a dead or loose Mosfet. Also might have some issue with small resistors or ceramic capacitors. Those could be causing the excess heat felt thru the Southbridge.

I don't think that your drain to A/V shielding ground test is going to show a clear fault. I could be wrong. The way I test Mosfets is to remove. Testing with a meter, both in continuity and diode function. If there is perfect continuity in all the pathways - then Mosfet is dead. Dpak or TO-252 mosfet have a switching function. You also have to charge and release the switch to see if it is working right

I don't suggest using a Heatgun at all. If it is a hardware store heatgun - with the force of its air - it could blown one of those small surface mount devices right off the board.

Another thing could be is that you lost a controller IC.

Another thing is the Southbridge might need reballing. I can do a variety of repair work - even reballing

I'd be open to looking at this for you. Look at it for free even. If I could repair - would shoot you a good deal

Here's some Xbox Scene members for reference - done work for them

apollo46 .... juvix8888 ..... ISkate0I

currently doing a job for ZeroprisonerZ

My feeling is the system could be salvaged ... but maybe I'm wrong

#6 iateshaggy

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 12:42 AM

does this appear to be a botched rgh? i'd bet my paycheck it is.

#7 XGO PARADOX

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 07:36 AM

QUOTE(iateshaggy @ Jun 4 2012, 04:42 PM) View Post

does this appear to be a botched rgh? i'd bet my paycheck it is.

no, not one solder point on the board looks like it has been touched since it was manufactured It must have died either on it's own or possibly a power surge

QUOTE(wilgo45 @ Jun 3 2012, 07:38 PM) View Post

0003 - notes a power management issue. Could have a dead or loose Mosfet. Also might have some issue with small resistors or ceramic capacitors. Those could be causing the excess heat felt thru the Southbridge.

I don't think that your drain to A/V shielding ground test is going to show a clear fault. I could be wrong. The way I test Mosfets is to remove. Testing with a meter, both in continuity and diode function. If there is perfect continuity in all the pathways - then Mosfet is dead. Dpak or TO-252 mosfet have a switching function. You also have to charge and release the switch to see if it is working right

I don't suggest using a Heatgun at all. If it is a hardware store heatgun - with the force of its air - it could blown one of those small surface mount devices right off the board.

Another thing could be is that you lost a controller IC.

Another thing is the Southbridge might need reballing. I can do a variety of repair work - even reballing

I'd be open to looking at this for you. Look at it for free even. If I could repair - would shoot you a good deal

Here's some Xbox Scene members for reference - done work for them

apollo46 .... juvix8888 ..... ISkate0I

currently doing a job for ZeroprisonerZ

My feeling is the system could be salvaged ... but maybe I'm wrong

that would be great I would love to get this thing fixed how much might different issues with it cost? I wouldn't want the overall price of this to be more than another I could get working for cheaper

#8 wilgo45

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 08:10 AM

QUOTE(XGO PARADOX @ Jun 5 2012, 01:36 AM) View Post

no, not one solder point on the board looks like it has been touched since it was manufactured It must have died either on it's own or possibly a power surge
that would be great I would love to get this thing fixed how much might different issues with it cost? I wouldn't want the overall price of this to be more than another I could get working for cheaper


Well - the way I'm looking at this - is that this is a difficult thing to price. You have multiple issues. I think alot of my work would be for free on this one. And I may not be successful

If I had to buy quite a few Mosfets or ICs from Digikey or another source it would be nice to be reimbursed. Most of that is fairly inexpensive.

You'd have to send me the full console. I don't have any parts or pieces of the Slim. I mainly work on the Phats fairly regular. Besides with the Slim - most people still have a warranty with Micorsoft.

Maybe I'll have to reball the Southbrige or the Cpu/Gpu. It will be fun to work on a Slim. So, I consider this something like pro bono. If successful, a tip would be nice

We'll have to talk some more ... I'll PM you

#9 XGO PARADOX

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Posted 12 June 2012 - 12:51 PM

bump

#10 Chris2810

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 01:38 PM

I have exactly the same problem. E75 / 1023 error and southbridge is hot, were you able to fix it?




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