Xbox Controller Soldering Diagram
Posted 30 July 2012 - 07:28 PM
I was wondering if someone could help me, my controller mic port shows that there is a mic always plugged into it. Is there a way to solder the little mic port piece off so that I can still use my wireless headset? I dont know where I need to solder and don't want to mess up my controller. Is there some type of diagram someoen can provide to show what to solder off to be able to remove the mic port without messing up my control, any help is appreciated. If this is the wrong place to post this, I apologize in advance.
Posted 31 July 2012 - 11:48 AM
The controller shown here is a Wired CL version, so it's probably not going to look exactly like your board there, but all of the Headset pins are in the same place on every version of controller.
Just jumper the 2 spots together shown and that will 'tell' the controller that no headset is plugged in. This was done on a Wireless CG2 with the Headset port removed, but again you can leave the port intact for this if you want.
If you still have a problem with it showing a Headset plugged in after doing that, then you have a severed trace or missing component somewhere, or some other issue with the controller that I'd have to see before knowing what else to try out.
Posted 31 July 2012 - 03:14 PM
Posted 31 July 2012 - 04:01 PM
You can use just about any kind of wire really, in the pic there is 30awg Kynar wire, but pretty much anything will do.
Posted 31 July 2012 - 04:04 PM
Posted 31 July 2012 - 07:22 PM
Posted 01 August 2012 - 07:24 AM
Edited by NyCShadow, 01 August 2012 - 07:25 AM.
Posted 01 August 2012 - 03:10 PM
I've never used that thing, but any 18W iron that 'claims' to perform like a 60W one is just blowing smoke, not melting solder like it needs to be. You also can't desolder with just a soldering iron, you need something to remove the solder after it's been melted, desoldering braid (solder wick) or a desoldering pump.
Any decent 15W-20W iron and a pump or wick should be all you'd need. You might want to try adding a little fresh solder on the joint to get things going, since the controller is made using Lead Free solder which takes a little more heat to melt, so some fresh solder or flux can get things going sometimes.
Posted 01 August 2012 - 06:49 PM
Posted 02 August 2012 - 06:29 AM
Posted 02 August 2012 - 01:01 PM
Posted 03 August 2012 - 05:05 AM
Edited by NyCShadow, 03 August 2012 - 05:09 AM.
Posted 03 August 2012 - 02:08 PM
The pic with the solder on it I can see 2 shorts that caused all kind of problems, as well as a couple of missing components that are/were most likely the direct cause of the Headset issue.
The pic with all of the solder removed isn't bad looking, aside from the missing pads and components L1 and L4.
Since there is no pic of the board before you laid the iron to her I can't say if repairing these issues will get it up and going again.
You can look at the first pic I posted, or the one that you numbered, as that's the same CL version you're working on there to see the missing components. L1 and L4 are inductors, and you can probably get away with just using a jumper wire in their place here, but that's not always the case. At a minimum you'll need to replace/rewire L4 and install a jumper wire to try and close that switch so the controller will think no headset is plugged in there.
I recommend using 30awg wire for this and a little practice on something else before sticking the iron back on there as it looks like you're leaving the thing on there far too long, it only takes a second or two at most to make a solid joint on these kind of smaller spots with new solder.
This is just a quick diagram of what you can try to get the Heasdet switch working, not the entire headset, just so a Wireless one will work again for now.
Use 30awg wire and strip off the insulation and use it to connect the Blue spots, since that's a short run there's no point in having the insulation or making some kind of loop with a longer piece of wire. Doing it this way will not replace L4, but jumper it as well as restore the connection to that pin in one shot.
For the pink spots, they can just be connected with a short piece of 30awg wire.
Again, these will only restore the switch function that the Headset connector provides, and if this is done properly, and there are no other issues with the controller, then a Wireless headset should start working again with the controller.
Posted 03 August 2012 - 03:23 PM
Edited by NyCShadow, 03 August 2012 - 03:32 PM.
Posted 03 August 2012 - 08:47 PM
The Yellow spot that you've marked is just what's left of the trace/pad that connected L4 to the solder joint. The spots I've marked in Blue just skip over that as it's not needed for this repair.
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