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[help] Light Tumbstick Led's


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#16 satanicshrew

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Posted 07 October 2012 - 04:09 AM

Hi this might help I did this a while ago but it never got posted in the tuts menu


http://forums.xbox-s...howtopic=741267

Hope it helps. If you have questions just ask.


#17 really_Wacky

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Posted 07 October 2012 - 10:44 PM

@satanicshrew: The controller is done allready thanks for the tutorial tough! smile.gif

@RDC: Yea i know the link said i needed to solder them in series witch i found weird since you adviced not to.
Anyway i replaced the 68ohm resistors with 150ohm resistors and its still working great thanks for the help smile.gif

Now i want to mod my CG2 wireless controller, So got myself a couple of optocouplers they only had ones with 6 pins i bought 100ohm ones since they should be able to work with 2 or 4 leds.


From what i understand it has these 4 things

Collector > 5Volt point (TP5 on the board)
Emitter > To the LED's (with 150ohm resistors between them)
Cathode > To the ground (TP22 on the board)
Anode > 1.5volt (TP8 on the board)


Now my questions are: how do i see what is what on the Opto chip?
Do i need to solder a 10ohm resistor between the 1.5 volt point and the anode, or does this value change when you choose 2 or 4 LED's?

Edited by really_Wacky, 07 October 2012 - 10:45 PM.


#18 RDC

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 01:25 AM

Series wiring is perfectly acceptable, it just comes with the risk of if one LED in that string decides to fail, then all of the LEDs in that line fail, be it 2 LEDs or 100 of them, like how a broken link in a chain wrecks the chain.

I couldn't even guess what the pinout (what lead does what) of your OC is as you haven't give the part number for it, which you should use to look up the DataSheet for it, which will have the pinout of it, and just picking some random part out is a 99.9% guaranteed fail also.

There is no 5v spot on the Wireless controller, with the exception of the one at the PnC connector, which only has 5v on it when the cable is plugged up and connected to a USB port.

The wireless controller's maximum voltage depends on the batteries used in the thing, it can vary from as high as 3.3v with new AA batteries or charging the PnC pack, to as low as 2.2v when a PnC pack needs recharging or AA batteries are 'dead', so you need to plan for the max voltage there, which is 3.3v. That's your source voltage to get the Resistor value, the one from the Emitter to the LEDs. So not 150ohm in this case, but those 68ohm will work for those Red LEDs here.

The LEDs are going to dim with the battery voltage also, that's the nature of sticking them in a battery powered device without getting more technical and using an LED driver or some DC-DC boost regulator to make a nice regulated power source for them. The wired controller didn't have this issue because it has the regulated 5v source from the USB port to use.

Yes the OC needs the 10ohm Resistor otherwise you'll damage the LED inside of it and ruin the OC. It's value doesn't change as long as the 1.5v to the Anode doesn't change, which on the controller it doesn't.


#19 really_Wacky

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 11:40 PM

I cant figure it out tongue.gif they best i got was the leds center squire lighted i little when the battery was inserted but the LED's didnt go on.

The opto transistor has 4N25 on it and a reversed RJ so i found this datasheet but its like chinese:

LINK

when i look at the picture on top it looks like

1 = Anode
2 = Cathode or Collector
3 = Not connected
4 = Emitter
5 = Collector or Cathode
6 = Base.


So if the above is correct should it be like this:

1 = 1.5Volt with 10ohm resistor (TP8 on the board)
2 = To the ground (TP22 on the board)
3 = Not connected
4 = LED's in parallel (with 68ohm resistor's)
5 = 5 volt point (No resistor)
6 = Not connected

LED's anode connected to 2 on the opto or directly to TP22


Is this correct?


Thanks in advance, i have respect you guys understand all this stuff tongue.gif

Edited by really_Wacky, 15 October 2012 - 11:44 PM.


#20 RDC

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 05:53 AM

You need to remember there is some kind of dot or notch in that thing to indicate where pin 1 is actually at, then you go from there, and no, it's not completely correct.

1 - Anode, to 10ohm Resistor, then 1.5v, TP8
2 - Cathode, to Ground, TP22
3 - N/C (Not Connected)
4 - Emitter, to Anodes of LEDs, with the correct Resistors on them
5 - Collector, power source, there is no 5v in the Wireless controllers
6 - N/C

The Cathodes of the LEDs will go to some Ground spot.


#21 really_Wacky

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 12:59 PM

Ok i did it and it worked smile.gif

Yea i know you said it the post before, that its 3.3volt i just made a mistake while figuring out the OC pinout. I have the feeling the LED's are not that bright like they are in the wired controller so im going to put 2 more in so i have 4 in total.

Picture: LINK They are still a little on even when the controller is off : LINK

Cant say iv'e done this myself you did all the work smile.gif Thanks!

Edited by really_Wacky, 16 October 2012 - 01:08 PM.


#22 RDC

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Posted 17 October 2012 - 05:25 AM

The LEDs should be completely off when the controller is off, so either that OC is fragged or something is wired up wrong.

#23 really_Wacky

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 05:46 PM

QUOTE(RDC @ Oct 17 2012, 06:25 AM) View Post

The LEDs should be completely off when the controller is off, so either that OC is fragged or something is wired up wrong.



The OC was fragged, tried a different one worked from the first time smile.gif




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