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> Error 250 On Every Block Of Nand
Vilpo
post Nov 22 2012, 01:20 PM
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So i'm trying to read NAND of this pre-RGH:d Falcon. With nandpro it gives error 250 on every block of the NAND. Flashconfig is normal 0x01198010. I've double checked my USB SPI reader connections to the motherboard.
Now the reason i'm trying to read it because the xbox went suddenly dead.. Won't run at all. Now the reason i've had this happen before is when i had NAND with corrupt blocks..
Could it be possible that the whole NAND is corrupt? And how would i go about to revive it? I dont have CPUKEY or original nand dump because it had been RGH:d by someone else than me..
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Dicko316
post Nov 22 2012, 01:56 PM
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Test the spi points for the correct values/readings.

See here for details.
http://www.team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77908
[But the site is down at the moment]

Here is the google cache of that page.
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/sear...=clnk&gl=uk

I'm thinking you may have a problem with the southbridge. A reflow or reball may help.
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Vilpo
post Nov 22 2012, 08:02 PM
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Ok, thanks for the link Dicko. However, i'm able to read NAND just with errors. Could it still be Southbridge issue? Sowehow i don't believe the nand could be as corrupted so every block would be bad...?
Too bad the pictures wont open since team.xecuter is down, so i'm not able to get the test values for all the pins.. Can someone give me the right values that there should be?
I measured values on the board as follows:
J1D2.1 - 0.225v
J1D2.2 - 3.29v
J1D2.3 - 0.7v
J1D2.4 - 0v
J2B1.5 - 3.03v
J2B1.6 - 0v
All pins seemed to have same resistance to ground, about 12 Mohms (except for the 3,3v).
Thanks for any help..

This post has been edited by Vilpo: Nov 22 2012, 08:18 PM
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Dicko316
post Nov 22 2012, 09:25 PM
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Your J1D2.1 looks a bit off. Also your resistances. Any damage to the board? Also, test your spi reader on another board to rule that out. What are you using for ground?

I just tested a falcon I have here and got these readings

Resistance:
J1D2.1 - Infinity
J1D2.2 - Infinity
J1D2.3 - 40 Ohm
J1D2.4 - Infinity
J1D2.5 - Infinity

J2B1.5 - Infinity
J2B1.6 - 6K Ohm

Voltage:
J1D2.1 - > 1mV
J1D2.2 - 3.3V
J1D2.3 - > 1mV
J1D2.4 - 0v
J1D2.5 - 0v

J2B1.5 - 3V
J2B1.6 - 0.0-0.1 mV
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Vilpo
post Nov 23 2012, 11:31 AM
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Resistances sure seem different. I used one of the big pads, where the case screws go through, for ground.
Volts are closer to what it should be, actually i measured them again and J1D2.3 was 0v so i think maybe i measured it wrong or something. But J1D2.1 was still at about 0.2V so thats definately off..
I looked the board through carefully, no damage found.
I actually got the original nand dump+cpukey for it now, but it's still a no go since i cannot even erase the nand because then it gives error 202 on every block...
Also, i tried reflowing the southbridge but that changed nothing..
Could it be a problem with the NAND chip itself?
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Vilpo
post Nov 27 2012, 02:42 PM
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Ok, i ended up replacing the nand chip from a spare parts board i had. So it still wasn't booting..
I desided to check the board once more, and i noticed i had several broken traces under J1D2. Aparently the original rgh installer had slipped his soldering iron, or heated up wrong places.
Anyways, i ended up repairing three broken traces. Still won't boot but now i get it to read nand properly. smile.gif
Everytime i either try to erase or write nand it still gives error 202 on each block..
Now one thing i noticed is my flash config is now 0x01198030 instead of the original 0x01198010.
So could the replacement nand be the wrong kind? Or could i still have a broken trace somewhere that has something to do with the writing operations?

This post has been edited by Vilpo: Nov 27 2012, 02:43 PM
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Dicko316
post Nov 27 2012, 03:14 PM
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Sorry I havn't replied sooner mate, been busy lately.

I would say your having trouble because you have a broken trace or damaged component one or more of the nand legs, most probs the write enable and/or write protect of the nand. Maybe even more points.

You said you had damage?

Post some pics of the damage and repairs, also make sure your nand has the correct continuity from the points on the nand legs to the points you would use to fit a dual nand chip.

IPB Image
(Ignore the text in the center, this pic is just for reference)

I think this board maybe a lost hope? As the time spent repairing may out-weigh its worth?

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Vilpo
post Nov 28 2012, 01:10 AM
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Thanks for the images for the nand points dicko.
I finally got it to write on nand! smile.gif
Problem was, when i flowed on the spare part nand there had been couple pins unsoldered. Only touching the pads. And i thought they were good, since when i tested the points with my mm, i put the probe on the pad, not the leg of the chip... tongue.gif
Anyways, it actually boots now! But theres another problem, after writing stock nand there is rrod 0022 after about 30 seconds of booting.
I also tried installing the coolrunner back and created the .ecc and it will boot Xell fine. But when i created the freeboot image and wrote it with rawflash, when i boot it just stops glitching after couple of cycles and stays there.
If i boot with eject, again it boots Xell with no problems.
So could this actually be a rrod issue at the same time caused by poor connection of GPU or HANA?
I dont wanna lose hope with this one just yet, since i made some progress with it.. wink.gif
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Dicko316
post Nov 28 2012, 01:29 AM
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Yeah 30secs to go RROD with 0022 is most likely GPU issue.

Test the GPU if its lower than 1.2ohms the it may need a reflow/replacing or reball.

http://xbox-experts.co.uk/tutorial/how-to-...e-cpu-is-burnt/
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Vilpo
post Nov 29 2012, 01:06 AM
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Ok, thanks for the link Dicko.
I tested the points for GPU and mine showed about 1.4 ohms.
So it's less than the 2 ohms but not under 1.2..
Well, i think i'll try to reflow GPU to see if that helps. Would it be better to remove the epoxy from sides of the chip before doing it or does it hinder the reflow at all?
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Dicko316
post Nov 29 2012, 01:11 AM
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Yeah I normally remove the epoxy, just so I can give the GPU a little nudge when at the right temp to test that the solder is fully liquid.
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Vilpo
post Dec 1 2012, 12:57 PM
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Ok, reflowed GPU and still 0022. But now the GPU power test point gives 2.0 ohm, so better than before. smile.gif
CPU test point gives 7.9 ohm which seems more than enough.
Now i read somewhere that 0022 means problem is somewhere between flash-south bridge-GPU-CPU..
Next option is reball?
One question about nand writing:
- I had couple random errors while writing, so i fixed using:
nandpro nand.bin: -r16 fix1.bin 3eb 1
then write to nand:
nandpro usb: +w16 fix1.bin 3eb
Is this the correct way to rewrite the block with error on first write?

This post has been edited by Vilpo: Dec 1 2012, 01:00 PM
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Dicko316
post Dec 1 2012, 03:56 PM
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Hi mate, I'd try a reball.

But time out the 0022 error again and see if its still 30 secs.

If you nand is not right then thats also a mojor problem.

When correcting single block write errors manually read it with that command, but when writing use -w command not the +w.

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Vilpo
post Dec 2 2012, 01:25 AM
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Ok, thanks for the hint, Dicko. By the way, what's the difference when i use + or - commands in nandpro?
I think that the nand itself is ok now, since it reads and writes normally and since xell runs. So the system itself must be reading it fine.
I think reball will have to wait till i get better flowing equipment. Nand was easier to do since the pins are visible so heat will reach them better from top. But i don't have a bottom preheater so i don't dare to try gpu reball without that. I tried on a few spare parts boards before and always managed to separate at least one or two pads from the chip itself. This is a sign of too much heat on the chip itself, i take?

This post has been edited by Vilpo: Dec 2 2012, 01:26 AM
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Dicko316
post Dec 2 2012, 01:48 AM
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Type Nandpro /? at command prompt to get a list of all functions/commands

If your getting torn pads then your not reaching a balanced/high enough temp. Both board and chip should be of similar temps to get good pulls.

But you really need a bottom pre-heater, I've tried everything and nothing works like using a preheater.

I normally set my scottle ir6000's bottom heater to 235 deg C, run that for 4-5 mins, then my top heater kicks in, after approx 10 mins both reach same target temp of 225-230, which is good enough to reflow or remove chips.

I re-attach at a slightly lower temps as the melting point for leaded solder is lower, normally run it 2 times, reflowing with liquid flux the 2nd time.

Running a profile too fast will cause popcorning of the chip too, so nice and steady is the key.

Make sure your chip your working on is dry, so if you've cleaned it with alcohol or solvent then make sure you leave it to dry first, as this can also add to popcorning of the chip.

Then also running the temp too high or riseing the temp too fast can also cause this.

Try and use a few temp probs too, I only really have a basic setup at the moment, but I have two temp probs, one on bottom of the board, just off center, then the topside probe just touching the target chip and the board.
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