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> Difference In Ylod's?
KrInEn
post Aug 19 2010, 06:13 AM
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I have been repairing PS3's and 360's for some time now. We all know the error codes that come along with the red lights on the 360's, but what about the PS3?

I have noticed that there are two types of YLOD, one the unit yellow lights almost instantly. The second takes about 2-3 seconds before you get the dreaded beeps.

Now I treat both the same, mainly focusing on the RSX, I have a ACHI PRO SC that I am using. The ones that YLOD right off the bat I can seem to get about a 97% success with. The other ones that YLOD about 2-3 seconds in I have a much tougher time with. I am getting full reflows, I can see the solder liquefy around all of the edges. Still the ones with the delayed I have a much lower success rate.

If anyone has any tips or suggestions I am all ears smile.gif
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mhaqs
post Aug 19 2010, 02:01 PM
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You might wanna add in a GLoD to the YLoD list. The GLoD is semi bricked PS3. Everything works except that you don't get a display.

I'm having a hard time getting any help from someone on that issue.
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KrInEn
post Aug 19 2010, 05:15 PM
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QUOTE(mhaqs @ Aug 19 2010, 09:01 AM) *

You might wanna add in a GLoD to the YLoD list. The GLoD is semi bricked PS3. Everything works except that you don't get a display.

I'm having a hard time getting any help from someone on that issue.


"GLoD" can be fixed by reflowing the RSX chip. You have to make sure you get the board temps at LEAST 217C before the solder starts to melt. I have fixed quite a few no video errors this way.
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mhaqs
post Aug 20 2010, 04:32 PM
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If you read my thread. Do you think my PS3 issue could be fixed by a reflow? Because I think i blew a fuse/resistor/diode or something.
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Skeeterbite
post Jul 7 2011, 10:05 PM
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have you tried to re ball with that machine yet or have you only re flowed with it?
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