Capacitor Fell Off, Console Still Works Options

[armickha512]

Hi All,


I am currently using a 4gb slim console which has the corona revision. Recently it fell over and now one of the capacitors has come off and is rattling inside my xbox. Yet everything still works.

My question is, should I do anything about it? the console has never been opened and is only 7 months old.
If it helps, the cap that came off is the one furthest at the rear closest to the hdd slot.


Ps, this is my second corona, first one overheated. All the coronas I've had seem to get as hot as my xenon.

[armickha512]

The system runs really hot now, I think it is because of the missing capacitor.
Should I send it to microsoft? It hasn't been opened and everythings in place (apart from the capacitor of course) and still has 3 months warrenty.

btw is there any way I can reregister a used console? The console is a xenon from 2005.

[Ranger72]

The system runs really hot now, I think it is because of the missing capacitor.
Should I send it to microsoft? It hasn't been opened and everythings in place (apart from the capacitor of course) and still has 3 months warrenty.

btw is there any way I can reregister a used console? The console is a xenon from 2005.

It has been open there for there is no ore warranty. Microsoft wont even touch it.

Try to solder the resister back in place. If not at least remove it so it wont rattle around and end up causing some other sort of short.

[armickha512]

Might as well remove it then, thanks for the reply. It's one of the largest caps in the console but it works anyway so it's probably not a major capacitor.

Really? microsoft won't touch an opened console? better hope my xenon box don't get red ring then (though I was told that xenons have a low failure rate)

[vb_encryption_vb]

Might as well remove it then, thanks for the reply. It's one of the largest caps in the console but it works anyway so it's probably not a major capacitor.

Really? microsoft won't touch an opened console? better hope my xenon box don't get red ring then (though I was told that xenons have a low failure rate)

Seriously lmao.

Xenons have the highest failure rate as they are the launch model. Anyhow, that sticker you had to remove to well take off a screw, remove the lid and what not. That was the warranty sticker and that's how MS knows it's been tampered with.

[armickha512]

I just looked up on the xenons and their failure rate and some say they have a 90% chance of rrod! (that guy that told me that they have low failure rate is an idiot then)

Damn, how can I prevent rrod on the xenon then? and on my corona system as well (since it runs hotter than the xenon)

[relaxxx]

FAN MOD!!

Fan modding a slim is as easy as cutting a wire (the blue wire).
Fan modding a fat typically requires soldering, to do it right anyway.

Also, caps don't usually just fall off from a small drop. If I tossed one off a two story rooftop on to concrete I'd be lucky to actually remove a capacitor unless it was a factory defect solder job.


This post has been edited by relaxxx: Oct 2 2012, 10:59 PM

[armickha512]

I'll do the 12v mod on both then. Might as well replace thermal paste while I'm at it.

Upon opening the slim yesterday to remove the cap, It didn't look like it was the best of solder jobs i've seen.
The other capacitors are fine though. I'm not the only one who uses that particular xbox though, so I can't say what else has been done to it.

Is there anything else I can do to prevent my other box (xenon) from rrod? I've already upgraded the heatsinks (both are now 2nd gen) and cut the rear fan mesh a couple years back.

[relaxxx]

Replacing the GPU HS with a CPU HS is about the best thing you can do for a fat, even at stock fanspeed, the GPU BGA should never fail. The only other thing to check on a Xenon is make sure the case is not warping the board. With all screws removed, the motherboard corners should all lay down and not want to spring up anywhere.

[armickha512]

If thats the case then I might get another 2nd gen cpu heatsink and put it on the gpu (currently have the 2nd gen heatpipe one on the gpu) and mod the fan shroud. Thanks for the advice. I'll remove the screws also. I can always put the dvd drive in one of those old hd-dvd drive add-on cases.

Just wondering if I should do the xclamp fix? Personally I've been against it due to board warping but if others say different then I might give it a go.

[relaxxx]

No, don't do that, x-clamps are fine...
bolts are for tools!

[armickha512]

Yeah thats what I thought. I think using screws actually causes the board to warp more than the xclamps (been watching hgcgamersclub) so I won't bother with the xclamp fix. I just wanted to check on what everyone else said. Thanks for your reply.

How about a small fan on the extended gpu heatsink? If not then I'll get a cpu heatsink and move the dvd drive outside the console. If so what size fan would I need?

[relaxxx]

I've tried adding small fans before and they really didn't do much. You get a few degrees off if the rear fans are stock but if the rear fans are modded then any extra fans are pointless.

[armickha512]

Thanks for the reply. I won't add a extra fan then. I'm just going to use it normally until it gets rrod. It was made in 2005 and has never had rrod before. So it probably won't take long until it gets it. I'll then get it reballed and do all the cooling mods (cpu heatsink on gpu etc) after.


Thanks for you help, the 12v mod you suggested has made the console much cooler.